Since it's quite topical at the moment here's a link to the much touted Savile Row Bespoke website.
http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/Home/index.php
Didn't realise that M.G. had already linked to this site...
http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=3221
When did Richard Anderson and Ozwald Boateng become "bespoke" tailors? Last time I saw RA, he was hawking his "very expensive" ready made jeans.
Interesting that Meyer & Mortimer are a member of the Savile Row Bespoke Association, while Fallan & Harvey, who are in close proximity to M&M, though not actually situated on Savile row, are not members. Actually, given Keith Fallan's passing, I wonder if the revised name of the firm is simply "& Harvey." Conspicuous by their absence are Welsh & Jeffries, an otherwise well-regarded firm on Savile Row.
Andrew Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell is another missing one.....mmm
A bit of info....
http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000237.html
There was an awful lot of politics involved in who got invited to join which organisation. Part of the justification for not inviting Kilgour was that they had (realistically) the bulk of their suits made in Shanghai. Maybe their sin is being more transparent that Davies who have gone a lot further down that road.
I think Savile Row is missing a superb opportunity to bounce back. All this obsession with trademarking the term 'bespoke' and setting up appellations is a pretty narrow minded strategy, protectionist strategies always are, it's just a sartorial wagon ring against the "injuns", both literally and metaphorically. They need to look outward not inward.
We are now entering a phase were men want their individuality back, they've had enough of being told what to wear and shelling out thousands to look like everybody else. Ordinary men can now indulge themselves even if they can't afford bespoke suits by the dozen, they can have a few choice pieces like shirts and ties made up personally to there own specification in the most beautiful cottons and silks. This is the exactly the environment were S.Row can and should be flourishing but how do they achieve this?
Well, for a start they're in a unique position, not only do they have the skills, they have the location, right slap bang in the middle of one of the worlds wealthiest cities, a captive market with many men to busy to jump on a plane to Italy when they can hail a taxi straight to the Row. They have access to a rich history of cutting technique and style, access to the latest fabrics, the ability to design and commission their own fabrics. Savile Row needs to become more experimental if it's to survive, it needs to be more creative, cutting with more flair and style, embracing the latest weight fabrics, which are now the fabrics of choice for the younger affluent man, they need to keep their fingers firmly on the pulse of global style trends, leading from the front, not following from the back playing catching up, or worse still stuck in a cobwebbed past, lamenting the good old days. They've gone and hardly anyone now cares...
*Post deleted*
(It was all about when AK & Andy come to town)
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-06-21 06:57:17)
The handwriting is on the wall with the only viable future, IMO, in made-to-measure and ready-made. Bespoke is already prohibitively expensive and given the ever-increasing travel cost of the tailors, soon only the Forbes 400 will be able to afford the clothes. Unfortunately, 399 of them are not likely customers because of changing tastes in clothes and deportment, in general. Richard Anderson, who worked previously at the august bespoke firm Huntsman, is already doing ready-made, and other more venerable firms have been doing MTM and ready-made for some time. The concept of owning a fine, handmade suit of clothes for a lifetime and willing it to your son is outmoded.