I dont really wear sportcoats in the summer, so I will keep my opinions to winter jackets. Fitwise, I size my sportcoats with the intention of being able to slip a thin shetland sweater underneath without the coat being too binding.  Im addicted to herringbone patterns, both bold and subtle.  Whether in a loose weave shetland or a tighter harris tweed, I prefer my coats to be on the heavy side in terms of weight. As unstructured as possible, with the lightest canvassing available and no padding/wadding in the shoulders.  As for the details, I opt for lapped seams, patch side pockets (and a welted breast pocket), hook vent, either 1 or 2 buttons on the sleeve (if 2 then they are an inch apart).  3 roll 2 closure, no darts, with the buttons a full 6 inches apart (bottom button in line with the top of the side pockets.

I then proceed to wear them into the ground.  I rarely bother with an umbrella even when dressed in suits, and even less so in a sportcoat.  I dont feel like a coat is part of my wardrobe until its been through a hard night of drinking and the subsequent passing out on the couch, waking up at 11am still in the coat, wondering where the past several hours have gone.

I am having 2 sportcoats made up this fall, both 15 ounce shetland. One is a handloomed black/light gray small scaled diamond pattern and the other a brown/tan herringbone. Both fabrics are dead stock from the late 1950s.

Last edited by Tom Rath (2008-06-17 06:12:57)

I have only one sports coat. I bought it earlier this year on Ebay.It cost me something like 10 Pounds if i remember rightly.It`s a dark grey softly constructed Hart Schaffner Marx sports coat.It`s made of pure new wool and has differrent flecks of colour in the weave when you look closely.The different colour specks over the grey remind me of Donegal Tweed and it has a lovely nice soft (that`ll be the pure new wool...) ,nubby texture. It has darts (which i didn`t notice from the online pic) but to my eyes it looks very AMERICAN in it`s soft construction.

I love my sportscoat because it`s a such very versatile colour.(It`s also a very natural, manly and muted Ivy style colour aswell!). I invariably prefer having plain jackets as a frame and backdrop for a nice , interesting coloured sweater or polo shirt.

Personally i like tweed and pure new wool sportscoats and i like jackets with a bit of texture.I only really like darker grey or plainer brown colour sportscoats come to think of it. That`s it for me.

I love soft shoulders on a sportscoat.Living and working in  Cyprus inevitably gives anyone a little bit of a tan all year round. Speaking personally i think my own grey colour sportscoat is a better personal choice for me.Not just with regards to skin tone but because i also think it`s a great colour for night time wear.I think my dark grey sportscoat looks good with my black tapered Uniqlo chinos of an evening.

Personally i like it with with limited edition vintage early sixties style muted colour Fred Perry polo`s and tapered light colour chinos and bass weejuns with no socks .(Maybe with a white t underneath if it`s a bit nippy).I also like it with my Lands End cotton polos in black, forest green, spice brown or dark blue ,with slim USA made dark blue 501`s and with George Cox or Original Playboy thick crepe chukka suede footwear.

It fits me well but i think it would be too binding to wear a thick shetland with a white BD ( a la AAAT) underneath for example.(Although i think a fine cashmere crew neck with a white OCBD may not look so binding).I think a plain crew neck shetland by itself (maybe with a white t underneath) might not look so bad in colder weather.

^ Very nice & very versatile.
Grey Tweed does so much more than Green, Brown, Rust, Fawn, etc.
Good choice.

J.

Last edited by Moose Maclennan (2008-06-27 07:29:58)

I have a blue with tan windowpane (wool/silk/linen) 2btn. SB with Smalto lapels almost done. I'm a real fan of DB sportcoats- i get mine 4x2 either with all patch or welted breast and patch lowers. IMO it looks much more slick than SB on me.

l've been on a bit of a sportscoat binge lately. l always avoid the cashmere now: don't wanna risk the fine fibers getting moth eaten after a while in the closet. Wools and tweeds are good for me.

Got a decent collection. Blues, grays, browns, bone, navy, black (evening one). Always single breasted. Wouldn't mind some double breasted heavies. Wouldn't mind a nice murky green tweed.

They all look decently fitted. lf something looks off...IT GOES!  l will not wear shitty fitting jackets...can't do it.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-06-29 22:53:11)

Re:  Phil's use for fall coats more than summer: 

I was drawn to the oxford cloth jacket that Brooks offered not too long ago.  I wish the cut was more to my likening.  Some of the current Press offerings are good too for fabric but the damn shoulders just don't seem to be to my liking.

I like, now adays, a little roping or wadding or padding  I reckon, but not the NFL stuff.