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#1 2006-06-20 16:20:32

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Here is a question that no one at AAAC would answer.  Who sells better cotton summer suits - Brooks or Press?  I got a cotton jacket at Press this year.  It may be OK for the price, but I wouldn't call it a work of art.  Does Brooks do better?  The Press jacket was made by Cohen or someone like that.  I think most Brooks are a little less expensive, but the Press are from Press.

 

#2 2006-06-20 23:54:51

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#3 2006-06-21 05:47:09

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Horace,  Thank you for your prompt and thoughtful response.  It is sad that there is already a godfather.

Would you think it a good investment or just silly to have southwick whip up a cotton jacket for $600 or a cotton suit for $800?  There seems to be something rather tradish about these cheap cotton garments, no?

Finally would you prefer AHAT questions to be posted under seperate threads or under the original AHAT thread?

 

#4 2006-06-21 16:16:34

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Dear Longwing,

I'm glad that I could help.  There is something about value (and the cheap) that is Tradish, but it wouldn't be entirely silly to have Southwick make up a cotton suit on the quick.  Spending a few hundred more and getting what you want is worth the few extra benjamins.  After all, you should have the thing for quite a while.  And amaortized over twenty years, the money spent now won't seem like too much over time.   But if you go that far, you might even want to consider a tropical wool in 7-8 oz.  I've done so myself, and the results can be lovely.


As for AHAT queries, perhaps its best to confine them to the original thread.  I don't know.  Whatever you prefer.

Thank you, and Be of Good Cheer,


Horace


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#5 2006-06-30 04:47:01

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Longwing,

I wonder if you've found anything worthwhile?  I hope you'll report back.  I remember Frank Stella (8th Ave?) used to have an ad in the NY Times offering 100% cotton poplin suits cheap.  Whether it does now or not, I dunno.  Maybe Andover Boston during the sale?

Or if you're willing to go for a blend,  O'Connells:

http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/suits_spring_summer.php

Though I wonder if O'Connell's doesn't have old-stock 100% poplin.  You could also go pincord in 100% cotton.

or Brooks, during the sale.  This shade of khaki is very nice.  And would be my first choice for collar and cut (though I think supporting the smaller stores is often a good thing too):

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=372&Product_Id=971127&Parent_Id=305

As you sort of hinted in your original post, this might be the sort of "cheap suit" that you'd have to end up spending a lot on if you want to get it right.  Maybe not though...


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2006-06-30 07:36:42

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Horace,

What prompted my original question was that I purchased a Press chambray jacket in March, then shortly afterwards learned of the Brooks oxford cloth jacket.  Being aware of the shortcommings of the Press jacket, and reading the praises of the Brooks jacket on aaac, I began to wonder if I had jumped the gun.  It's silly I know, and I've gotten over it now.

I have had my eye on the Press oyster all cotton poplin, but have not pulled the trigger.  I think my mind has turned to fall acquisitions now. When I lived in the south, I wore a lot of poplin.  It was a favorite.  Now I mostly wear suits in the evening, so there isn't as much need.  OTOH, winter is great for tweeds and summer for cheap cotton suits.  Also,  I would be very happy to find a linen blazer in 3 button undarted sack.  Don't think I've run across one yet.

 

#7 2006-06-30 08:34:38

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

 

#8 2006-06-30 10:51:34

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

This is really, really, really, cheap  -
Match Bean's Tropical Cotton Blazers to their Tropical Cotton Chinos.
Snip the minimal shoulder pads out of the jacket if you like - I do.
Punch in a 3rd button hole to give you the 3 to 2 roll that we all know & love... Or not, even.
Yes, the jackets are darted & you can see the darts. No, they don't do a damn bit of good to shape the jacket - It's a darted sack.
Trash it & bin it when you're done - the jacket is $89, the trousers are, what? $35? or something. You can really afford to not remotely care how much you mess up this suit!
OR - Press the suit nicely & upgrade it with your best shirt & tie & loafers - They dress up very nicely too.
Have fun.
Live life.
It's summer!

Miles.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#9 2006-08-28 23:08:32

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

If you're a 42 or so, I saw a stunning blue Brooks cotton sack (with forward pleated trousers -- wch Brooks offered in the 80's and 90's with their sacks, in addition to the plain front), at the Goodwill.  It was so damn nice, Longwing, that I'll pick it up for you, if you wear that size, and I have another chance to get to that part of town.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#10 2006-08-29 05:31:33

longwing
Member
Posts: 198

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Horace,

Thanks for the offer, but I have to keep an eye on the scale to wear a 44XLong.  Due to my size, I don't spend much time thrifting.  It must be a great suit though. 

Anyway, the mind has turned to fall.  I'm thinking about doeskin blazers. Tempted to go with Press if they stock my size. That or Southwick MTM for about $150 extra.  Southwick is a better fit if I can keep the weight off.

I posted a question about mtm unstructured/unconstructed cotton jackets on AAAC a couple of weeks ago.  I thought this might be a nice addition to the summer wardrobe, but given my size and preference for the undarted, otr isn't going to happen.

Woody Allen wore an interesting cotton jacket in Scoop.  3 button sack, plaid, I think unstructured, but I don't know.  I think he wore 3 different summer weight jackets in the movie, the plaid sack was the most interesting to me.  Perhaps Tomasso knows where he got it.

 

#11 2006-08-29 06:26:12

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#12 2014-09-14 08:34:25

fxh
Big Down Under.
From: Melbourne
Posts: 6159

Re: AHAT - Cheap cotton suits

Its something I've often pondered for (down) here. A decent inexpensive cotton suit. Perhaps mostly unstructured. Possibly washable. It seems they used to be an Ivy staple but have disappeared from view.

I was prompted again after last night going out to a dinner party  for 7 at a friends place. I wore a cheap navy cotton jacket that I've washed a few times. I usually give it a quick iron every now and then. Its far from ticking all boxes on any forum, single vent, high 3 buttons, a touch of collar gap at front sides, collar a bit high at back. But many times, like the other night, it seems just right for me. Other blokes had on jumpers. Its a deep colour navy, let's me feel dressed OK but is just enough crumpled and creased and soft to be non threatening. I like to dress up a bit but would hate to be the dick in a jacket and tie. Never ever been to a private house meal and worn a tie. Unless coming straight from work. I like to be well dressed but I also like people to be at ease.I'm not going out to teach people a lesson or prove anything. I felt very warm toward that jacket.

Edit: a jumper is a pullover.

 

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