Gents:
Chensvold here from Dandyism.net. FNB has given me permission to pick your brains for a jazz-ivy article I'm working on for the online magazine at RalphLauren.com.
First off, I want to thank you guys for providing the inspiration. It was from reading the threads here a long time ago that I first got interested in the connection, and finally I'm in the position to attempt to pull together a survey of the connection between black and white jazz musicians of the '50s and traditional American Ivy League clothing.
I recently revisited the previous threads, and hope you don't mind an excuse to address the topic again.
I'll be hitting the library soon, and so could use any suggestions from you on books. And of course example photos on the web and other sources of info.
To get things rolling:
1) Who are the musicians who most embraced the Ivy League look?
2) Why, especially if they were black, did they adopt this look?
We want a broad survey, not just a focus on Miles' Ivy years. Still, this quote from an earlier thread was very helpful in establishing the gist of the story:
"... In the mid-fifties Miles took to the Ivy League look in fashion, having his clothes made at the epicenter of preppy fashion, the Andover Shop in Cambridge's Harvard Square, where tailor Charlie Davidson dressed him in jackets of English Tweed or Madras with narrow lapels and natural shoulder, woolen or chino trousers, broadcloth shirts with button-down collars, thin knit or rep ties, and Bass Weejuns loafers. It was a look that redefined cool and shook those who thought they were in the know..."
You may e-mail me directly at christian@dandyism.net.
Many thanks for your help.
C.
Agreed. What I'm interested in is why jazz musicians adopted the look, not that they fueled or popularized it. And in doing so, did they create a new kind of cool (as in the quote about Miles above).
What did, Mr. Lifshitz , say ?
Not , sure , what , you , mean.
There is one man in America who you should ask. It should be obvious who if you do a little reading (off the forums).
Last edited by Voltaire's Love Child (2008-06-30 23:08:12)
Agreed that the Modern Jazz/Ivy link is far stronger in Europe & Japan. The clothes went with the music, each spreading the popularity of the other outside the US post WWII.
In America the story is different...
So to talk about the redefinition of cool is a fascinating topic, but a really tricky one mainly because primary sources are by now so few - Although there is one man as Horace says who knows (I suspect we are thinking of the same chap, H.).
What is the angle for Ralph? This is an area he's neglected up 'til now.
Just interested.
Best -
Last edited by Horace (2008-07-01 02:52:51)
Ahhhh - I don't see the Jazz Age & Gatsby as being the same as Miles in the 50's hence the confusion. I'm not an American you know. I live on this small island just to the right of the Atlantic. The one after Ireland...
Sometimes I get mixed up.
Chensvy ol boy,
Do see this thread. It may unlock ol Ho'e's riddle above.
Is this RL Magazine anywhere but on his website? My guess is that ol Ralphie's editors may not want you to quote the true authority on Ivy clothing.
http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2050
Cheerio.
^ Yes, I sense a culture clash just waiting to happen...
I'd quite like Ralph to go all Ivy though & use his undoubted skills to pop out some threads worthy of a Flamingo All-Nighter in dear old London town. 3/2 Sacks, button-downs, loafers - Nothing too tricky, but do them in that elusive Ivy style & not his usual wistful fantasia.
Why not? I'd buy stuff like that from him.
J.
I should be speaking with Charlie at Andover tomorrow and have a message in with George Wein.
I may have created some confusion in my original post. I'm not interested in this as a trend or influence the musicians created; I'm interested in the style from their point of view: who adopted the look and why.
Once again, the jazz-ivy connection (though admittedly small and momentary) was unknown to me until I read the threads here. I believe it's a little-known and interesting moment in American cultural history. Again I have you gents to thank for the inspiration.
Ralph doesn't have an "angle" on this, if you mean a business angle. I pitched it to my editor, and apparently they loved it for the Americana.
I've previously written for Ralph on vintage racing and chartering historic railcars:
http://entertainment.ralphlauren.com/magazine/editorial/su08/all_aboard.asp
Chet Baker was also an Andover Shop customer and Jazz trumpet genius.
I'm afraid he was white though. No use?
Best -
Last edited by Voltaire's Love Child (2008-07-01 23:19:32)
Hear it and live:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOjxBuwBUEE
And send this one off in the deep space probe. The aliens will understand, perfectly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMrK7564Egs&feature=related
Last edited by Voltaire's Love Child (2008-07-01 23:31:37)
Last edited by Voltaire's Love Child (2008-07-01 23:37:03)
The Jazz-Ivy link was only part of the creative world- Ivy league associations in the mid late 50s through to the early 60s. This include numerous left field talents from all creative sectors. John Cassevetes(Actor/Director), Anthony Perkins (Actor), Bob Newhart (Comedian), Andy Warhol (commercial Artist), Jack Kerouac (Author). and many more. All Ivy Leaguers, by either birth right , education or choice.
The Jazz-Ivy League was just more visible and so it gets greater recognition.
Modern Jazz is also a left field art form and in the 50s it attracted an audience with a variety of backgrounds. Jazz was popular in the Campus' in the 50's and university gigs were very common. IMO this is probably one of the crossover areas where Jazz musicians were exposed to the the Ivy League look, sharper and uncommon on the Street.
As we are told Blue Note Jazz musicians would blow recording fees in J Press, The Andover Shop, Paul Stuart and BB all ivy League haunts. in the 50s and 60s.
The Jazz - Ivy League association grew organicly, naturally and they were not forced together for commercial gain. It just happened for a variety of reasons.
Current Jazz - Ivy League associations. BB has an "arranged marriage" with Wynton Marsalis and the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra. Brokered by some Mistermind from a Product Placement Consultancy, who read the history books and put, Brooks Brother, The leaders of Ivy League Lite together with IMO technical and creatively one the greatest Modern Jazz Trumpet Players of his era. Who I also consider to be very cool. Not his fault, to be in the right place at the wrong time. For WM to have been cool he would have had to have been around in the mid 50s, with Fats, Lee, Blue, Miles et al, when there was some very serious competion.
Jazzers in the 50s bought, begged, borrow or stoll the threads, product endosement was not an option. For me that mean total devotion.
RH
RH
Thanks for your insight. Do you have a source for this:
Quote: As we are told Blue Note Jazz musicians would blow recording fees in J Press, The Andover Shop, Paul Stuart and BB all ivy League haunts. in the 50s and 60s.