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#1 2008-07-14 14:18:03

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

London Ivy - differences within the capital

It is a given that there was London and the provinces and the Ivy/Squire style separated them completely.

I always thought there were differences within London too and that in the words of the football chant 'O West London is wonderful' Chelsea was quite a skinhead/fashion football club. The difference in style is apparent when you think of, say, Peter Osgood and Jack Charlton.

USAF had a base out at Eastcote/Ruislip and I was offered shoes sourced there by long-haired schoolmates who lived in the area and spotted a potential market.

I also remember reports of youth clashs. Willesden were described as wearing donkey jackets as opposed to smarter sheepskins worn by their suburban counterparts further West. In retrospect, donkey jackets would make sense if trouble was what you were after.

I was a kid during the mod thing. I remember all the chrome scooters heading up to the Rediffusion studios in Wembley Park on Friday evening for 'Ready Steady Go'. I would have been more sympathetic to rockers as a youngster. They seemed tougher. Mods were portrayed as effeminate in the newspapers of the time. Although there had been Teds in the area, I soon realised that there were no rockers that I knew of; although the Ace Cafe was not far away and I remember the ton up boys when I was on buses on the North Circular. Anyway, the  older girls got into mod thing and then some of the boys started getting scooters. I think the mods went up West, but by the skinhead time, around my way, it was all very suburban. The Leyton Buzzards song sums it up quite well. It sounds a bit like the Kinks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpYG1Uoc590

I am very curious about reports of an Ivy Shop in Wembley. I knew Wembley very well and cannot remember a branch. Timpsons at Wembley Central station sold Royals - but that was it.

I would be interested in hearing from people who bought items other than shoes and shirts from Ivy/Squire. They had a monopoly on those. Everything else you needed could be obtained from a number of places. I do remember someone who got a cardigan from them but it seemed a bit extravagant. Younger teens did not have that much money to splash around.

 

#2 2008-07-14 19:14:57

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2008-07-14 19:31:43)


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#3 2008-07-15 01:33:02

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Great thread which will fill a gap in my knowledge too - My older London Ivy pals went from Richmond Hill in '70 to Madison Ave in the early to mid 70's pretty much with a few North London MTM 'Saturday Night' suits added to the mix in the early 70's (The Hooked Side Vent!).
Not being Mods or Skins they just got into the clothes in '70 because they were fashionable (Although they were actually on the way out as the French cut came in). Then once hooked on the American style they had the opportunities to explore the shops & clubs in NYC. Probably a situation which was not very common for a couple of guys in their early 20's back then. Having family connections made things easier for them.

The real story of this style in London is one which when I come to think of it I don't actually know - I came late to The Look and like my chums I'm a bit of an outsider to the whole subcultural world which is connected to the cult of Ivy style clothing in London.

- So I'd love to hear more from anyone else too.

 

#4 2008-07-15 01:37:54

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

I wonder if the shop in Wembley was an "Ivy Shop" or an Ivy style shop? That is to say not a branch of the IS like there was in Windsor for a while, but a shop selling clothes in the Ivy style. I need more details on that one too!

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-07-15 01:38:26)

 

#5 2008-07-15 03:11:04

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Last edited by Alex Roest (2008-07-15 03:12:32)

 

#6 2008-07-15 05:29:46

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Let me help in any way, A.

Best -

J.

 

#7 2008-07-15 12:42:24

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

You got your suits made up fairly cheaply at Burtons or Colliers. They had vast books of cloths so plenty of scope for individuality there. The High Street was full of chain tailors. They were as numerous as mobile phone shops are today. Every order was sent off to be made up in Leeds.

My brother got a patch pocket blazer with what we called an 'off-centre' vent and none of the old tailors raised an eyebrow. We did not know the original style but got the idea from somewhere - word of mouth maybe. I always thought it was a rather strange feature. I do remember fiddling about with contrast on the old black and white 405 line tellies. When Robert Culp and Bill Cosby were on, it helped you to pick out details on clothes that were of interest.

Hank is right about the suits - no pleats, narrowish trousers with waistcoat. Most important were the enormous centre vents and heavily waisted jackets that youngsters could easily get away with. Nobody ever mentioned shoulders. It was not something we were even aware of. Our suits had whatever shoulders the chains usually offered. No London skins had four buttons and definitely not double breasted. Mohair gave way to houndstooth and Prince of Wales check cloths later on.

There was no such thing as a tank top. Slipovers were very fashionable knitwear and often worn with half sleeve shirts. Cardigans were in vogue too.

 

#8 2008-07-16 07:55:19

Suitedbooted2000
Member
Posts: 577

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

another great thread.
I'll try and get some views from just outside London (Hertford and Chelmsford) and see what, if any difference there where.

Lewis

 

#9 2008-07-18 08:26:47

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#10 2008-07-20 15:02:35

dempsey
Member
Posts: 60

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#11 2008-07-20 15:37:11

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

- Fucking great, Dempsey - Welcome home!

Jim

 

#12 2008-07-20 15:47:07

dempsey
Member
Posts: 60

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

thanks Russell Street ,
finding this website far more gentile.
its obviously got class.

 

#13 2008-07-20 15:54:49

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#14 2008-07-20 16:08:28

dempsey
Member
Posts: 60

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

i find there shirts a bit snug really 2 which I brought about 2/3 yrs back hardly worn.

have you heard of CARVELLO shoes brought some loafer style driving shoes today at a ridiculous price.
lovely leather soft flexible .
i love a bargain.

 

#15 2008-07-20 16:16:05

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

I think the name rings a bell, but I'm hazy on it. Good stuff, yes?

Finding all this stuff is a big part of the fun, don't you find? I got some Drivers last time I was over in Frogland by 'Rudy's' - 39 Euros and great style to them. It's all about The Look for me. You just have to go everywhere and check everything out.

 

#16 2008-07-20 16:17:15

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Interesting post from Dempsey. A lot of stuff in common.

I have never been bothered much with the North/South London thing - but I could never see much point in East London.

Lots at my school were QPR fans. They must have been doing cheap deals for kids. QPR won a League Cup in the sixties and were going well. Watford were the other clubs for the kids that came in from, err, Watford. Spurs were huge - but only the PE master supported Arsenal.

I could go to the occasional Chelsea match. If, say, Man Utd were playing you just turned up early. You always got in and it did not cost a fortune (I'm in full old man mode now). Plus you could buy a tin of beer from the off licence, even though you were school age, and you could take it onto the terraces. Saturday jobs meant I did not go too often though. I never dressed smartly for football games.

Interesting that Dempsey went to see Brentford as well. The animosity between the Bees and Rangers would have been growing after the attempted takeover.

I always thought, for some reason, kids further out in West London seemed to be more aware of the Ivy stuff. It might be older brothers or whatever. Certainly a lot of the dance halls were out that way too.

Snake belts, from Woolworths, I remember well. I think all kids loved them. I liked them at primary school - before I was even interested in clothes. We even had those ribbon watch straps the US Ivy types seem to think so much of- very much a trend at school. The bumper boots as well. 'Short back and sides' was what I was told to get at the barbers. I had to discover the Boston thing later myself.

Shepherd's Bush market was supposed to pretty good. I never went there myself, but lots of kids got records there.

Last edited by Kingstonian (2008-07-20 16:36:15)

 

#17 2008-07-20 16:39:58

dempsey
Member
Posts: 60

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Last edited by dempsey (2008-07-20 16:42:23)

 

#18 2008-07-20 16:47:35

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#19 2008-07-20 17:19:08

dempsey
Member
Posts: 60

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

I remember the old IVY shop in Richmond from schooldays apart from the odd shirt frankly I could,nt afford there prices way outta my league.
When I started work  , I was often in there, looking more than buying.
I ve have spent a pretty penny in J.Simons but not for a while now.
I work all over London know SW LONDON well, nice part .
My favourite shop was always Stanley Adams on the Kings Road, sadly now gone.......

 

#20 2008-07-29 05:11:05

Suitedbooted2000
Member
Posts: 577

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#21 2008-07-29 09:25:26

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

great thread....not being old enough (nor english enough) to have any first hand experience in this, it's great to read thoughts from those who were part of the first wave.

this forum is def the ultimate resource for mod/skin discussions, far exceeding anything found on actual mod/skin sites and forums.

 

#22 2008-07-30 03:26:15

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

 

#23 2008-11-06 12:19:45

aljazz
Ivy Original
Posts: 117

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

I grew up in Kingsbury/Wembley and I don`t think there was an Ivy Shop in Wembley. There was a man`s shop called, I think, Jennings which stocked 501s, then just called Levis. I had a sack suit made there and a very goobd job they made of it.

 

#24 2021-10-12 05:52:53

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

Relevant thread for discussions on JFMs Jewish Ivy mentors.

 

#25 2021-10-12 05:56:21

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: London Ivy - differences within the capital

John Collier clothing still pops up in charity shops - including the belted fawn raincoat I had a look at yesterday: less than half the price of some Timberland horror further along the rail.  I wonder if Collier were somehow attempting to imitate Burberrys' in this particular instance.  Frankly, it outclassed most of what I've been seeing recently by a mile - which, unfortunately, isn't saying much.

 
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