You can't not want to dress well after visiting the site...
http://www.marianorubinacci.it/
His jackets are about as unconstructed as you could hope for. Almost no canvas except for a small front piece, no shoulder pads or wadding and no sleeve head. probably better suited for soft fabrics like cashmere and better on slight people.
Laboratorio Chan, Burlington House, advised me that they did the very same construction for a Chan/Rubinacci client recently. Perhaps the owner would care to comment on the relative mertis of design, fit, workmanship? Mr. Cantabridgium are you there?
The Neapolitan Bijan? Customers who bought here may be interested in:
www.yelp.com/biz/the-house-of-bijan-beverly-hills
The whole point of Rubinacci is the shirt like deconstructed jacket. I doubt he puts a lot of structure in the suit or jacket unless you make him.
Bijan? Rubinacci?
I think the comparison is apt. The same ad agency appears to have done Bijan's website:
http://www.bijan.com/
Further:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bijan_%28designer%29
As Matt and I have cordially exchanged 'opinions' on this subject in the past, it is my view that the marketing of Super Mariano is off putting. I think there is a not terribly sophisticated appeal to buy the 'lifesytle.' You can get the wristwatch, the eau de cologne, and so on. Would you patronize a doctor or lawyer who advertised or solicited? If you buy enough from these guys perhaps the lifestyle will become yours. The naivete of an otherwise educated population is fascinating. No jihad here, just a Barnum and Bailey world... I do find their grins comparable. What are they laughing about?
By the way, I think Bijan was an ophthalmologist in the old country.
Last edited by tteplitzmd (2008-07-22 14:58:18)
Well, Rubinacci makes beautiful jackets but maybe he needs to add some more structure for the Americans who buy work suits. Even that guy from the south had some problems with sag in the jacket.
How have they been holding up for everyone?
Mafofan are you really getting 5 blue OCBDs and 5 blue/white bengal striped from Brooks? Like to see that as a fan like arranged photo here.
Last edited by mafoofan (2008-07-22 15:23:54)
Regardless of whether one finds the "Rubinacci lifestyle" appealing or not, I've looked closely at their suits and they are beautifully made. As for fit, a friend has a few and they fit him well and do look good. His suits don't actually have much drape to speak of. I wouldn't say they're "perfect" and, to my eye, they could do with minor tweaks, but then again, I'm not sure I've ever seen a perfect suit - there's always something that can be improved upon (and I don't mean details or matters of style).
As for the size of a front canvas, different makers do use different sizes. Don't know about Rubinacci, but A&S, for example, use a small front canvas compared to the others on Savile Row.
While I, personally, prefer a pure bespoke tailor and shirtmaker, I can understand someone identifying with a certain brand, whether Rubinacci, Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers or whatever, and adopting that lifestyle for themselves. I actually have taken to wearing the same shoes, sweaters and neckties that my shirtmaker wears and have adopted many of my tailor's style cues.