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#1 2006-06-27 01:58:02

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

I'd like to qualify this thread at a later date, but allow me to say now that I find suspect the prevailing wisdom that I see elsewhere and the obsession with grading various shoes.  Take Grenson for instance.  I'm not that impressed with them.   But to hear other people tell it, such and such a model is 2 steps above Smith handgrade, but three steps below Jones benchgrade, unless you get the channeled sole variety, with the Spanish leather that's been cured in vat of pigs shit for five years off the coast of Majorca.  It just seems that some (many?) repeat these truisms and speak out of their ass.  That's my take on it, anyway.  I'm not a huge fan of say, AE anymore, but I read these posts about how so and so is better than such and such, and I have many of these shoes, and I don't really think the difference is there.  I'll try to post some pics later.

Anyway, I often think these rating scales are bullshit and I definitely think from the Grensons I've worn that those shoes are over-rated.

I'm not against classification nor hierarchy (after all, it's essential to any sort of meaningul value system), but you ever get the feeling that not only do these people not know what they're talking about, but that some have probably never worn any of the fucking shoes at all?  It's like someone stuck a crank in their side, wound it a couple of times, and they start spewing all these crap they read from someone else, which wouldn't be bad if it were actually qualified.  Which I suppose this post itself ain't.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2006-06-27 04:58:03

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

You wouldn't like to come drinking with me would you?
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#3 2006-06-27 07:49:41

Panzeraxe
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Grenson has several lines - the Masterpiece line, which used to be sold under their own label and is now sold only by Paul Stuart, is easily comparable to C&J Handgrade (I have 2 pairs of Weymouths and 1 pair of Grenson Masterpiece "Butterfly" Loafers). Their new Grenson, Footmaster and Feathermaster lines are unimpressive.

 

#4 2006-06-27 07:59:51

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

The new rules:
1) All loafers must bow to the Weejun.
2) ... Whatever...

Is it fair to say that all 'U.S. looking' loafers come from the Weejun & that all 'European looking' ones owe more to the evening pump & the dancing slipper?

M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#5 2006-06-27 08:45:26

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Forums definitely develop a groupthink where certain brands become the only proper option and anything else is ignored.  You're definitely right about the spiels/salespitches that come out of poster's mouths, and I think they are just reciting the same speech they read in a thread last year. 

At some point it's like hearing guys argue that their $20 scoop of vanilla ice cream is better than a $5 scoop of mint chip.

 

#6 2006-06-27 09:17:08

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#7 2006-06-27 09:46:57

Ed
Member
From: USA
Posts: 264

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Last edited by Ed (2006-06-27 09:49:16)


Regards.
Ed

 

#8 2006-06-27 09:53:41

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Yea!
Bean did a good fringe & tassel not too long ago (Maybe they still do?), also El Salvadore made, like the Weejun, but a lesser animal. Trashable Trad... or CAD...
M.
Lovely Pic Ed. Gotta love a Weejun!


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#9 2006-06-27 09:55:10

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#10 2006-06-27 09:57:47

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

To Get Smart:

Post your Loakes!
Post your Loakes!
Post your Loakes!
Post your Loakes!

Ahem.

Miles

*See me walking around I'm the boy about town that you've heard of...*


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#11 2006-06-27 10:01:04

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

I am not averse to such rankings. I just get somewhat flabbergasted at the need of some to label shop above all else at the expense of fit, etc. I used to be in that sad camp.

I am going to reserve my thoughts on EG and other makers until I have inspected them myself. I have no problem believing that they are quite a step above my Alden and AE shoes, I just want to see if they are worth the premium. For instance, I don't wear Oxxford anymore, not because of economic reasons, but for the fact I can't justify paying that much for an otr/mtm garment when a very good bespoke tailor could make a suit from better fabrics and for less money. I think I am going to feel the same way about EG shoes. Better than Alden, to be sure, but worth 2 to 3 times the price? I will have to deliberate long and hard before taking any plunge.

I am going to New Orleans for a week at the end of July, and will see my first EG shoes at a retailer there called George Bass.

Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-27 10:03:58)

 

#12 2006-06-27 10:09:01

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

You wouldn't like to come drinking with me would you Sweetbooness2?
Tell me you like Dr. John?

Miles.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#13 2006-06-27 10:59:46

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Look very C&J to me.
The Kerry is cool - I've got the Antique Brown from Solely Shoes on the web.
I think your post really shows off the difference between the U.S. style Kerry & the European C&J style loafer.
My taste leans towards the Kerry. Many others go the Euro route. And yet life goes on...
M.

Edit: You wouldn't like to come drinking... ? You know how it goes...

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-06-27 11:02:14)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#14 2006-06-27 10:59:48

Elzevir Block
New member
Posts: 4

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Hi everybody - new member here, long time lurker/poster on the other forums.

Horace - you hit the nail on the head with how the dynamic works. It’s like the elders speak the gospel and the disciples preach it around, usually without having any first hand experience. The whole thing becomes too technical and tedious. You get posts explaining with deadly earnestness that Lobb is better than EG because it has a beveled sole, whereas Vass is superior to both because the feather is skived rather that glued on. There’s much too much significance given to the superficial aspects of better shoes and clothing: working sleeve buttons, pick stitching, channeled soles, thickness of buttons, antiquing, etc. It’s missing the big picture for the details. The comi-tragic results can be seen all over the other forums when some clueless chap commissions his first ever suit with one button and peak lapels, or is having his humble neighborhood cobbler put a beveled sole on his shoes, or is practicing home bleaching of shoe leather (the horror).

Having said that, for me, shoes are first and foremost about the last shape, and I’m afraid that in this case middle to low end shoes (AE, etc.) simply do not cut it. The inelegant lasts and stubby shapes are a deal breaker.

 

#15 2006-06-27 11:07:12

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Hi!  E.B., & Welcome!
As a European I like the 'different' look of 'Inelegant', substantial American Brogues, Smooths & Loafers.
Over here they stand out more & make more of a statement.
Just a POV.
M.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#16 2006-06-27 11:29:11

Elzevir Block
New member
Posts: 4

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

MA – hope I did not offend you with my generalizations. To make it clearer, in 'inelegant' I didn't necessarily mean the sort of indigenous American ‘bulky’ shoe types (which can be an acquired taste, like a Budapester). Their ‘inelegance’ is the product of some tradition, not carelessness.

I meant more the facsimiles of essentially basic British shapes, which are done with less refinement. For me, it’s the nip here, tuck there that give a shoe it’s flair and finesse. I like to think of it as the Ferrari vs. Corvette issue - both share the same basic silhouette, the difference lies in the little details. I think that Lobb London’s designs (regardless of their other problems) exemplify this quality in the bespoke world, and really almost only EG (and C&J in their better lasts) in the ready made world. Needless to say, this issue is not limited to American manufacturers. I believe it's fair to say that most shoes - low/middle/high end - are made on lasts that either lack refinement, or are flamboyant in an overstated way. Similarly, antiquing can be beautiful when done in an understated, natural way, or truly vulgar, a la Berluti.

 

#17 2006-06-27 11:34:48

sweetbooness2
Member
Posts: 60

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Yes, I like Dr. John, but haven't purchased anything by him since Dr. John Plays Mac Rebenak.


If you want some more New Orleans feel, listen to The Meters or the  great Johnny Adams, who is sorely missed.

 

#18 2006-06-27 11:43:42

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

 

#19 2006-06-27 12:06:42

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#20 2006-06-27 12:09:30

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#21 2006-06-27 12:10:41

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#22 2006-06-27 15:26:53

Percy Trimmer
Member
Posts: 13

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

 

#23 2006-06-27 19:00:08

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

Of course, the ultimate iconoclast would develop a pedantic shoe pyramid.


Jukebox Babe

 

#24 2006-06-28 04:22:40

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#25 2006-06-28 06:35:15

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: Against the Prevailing Shoe Orthodoxy

I'm waiting to grow up into a pair of Aldens...


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

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