I, didn't .

I often think that I'd like pair with women on them, such as the cufflinks Paul Smith puts out.  But then I come to my senses.

Last edited by R.A. (2008-06-27 16:38:27)

I've always worn very plain sterling silver cufflinks.  I just bought a pair of sterling silver knots for upcoming events this summer.  The vintage cufflinks on the T&A website, especially the carved ivory and cameo pieces, are exceptioo\nally nice, and something I really hadn't considered seriously ,previously.

http://www.turnbullandasser.com/accessories.html

I wrote this as a further discussion about a comment I made about cufflinks someone contemplated buying.
They wanted to know if there were rules regarding cufflink wearing and I know some of you don't post at SF but might want to get involved.

Here is the original set off cufflinks asked about by Merkur:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=68629


And this is the current question about cufflink rules at SF:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?p=1141358#post1141358



What is the purpose of cufflinks? Aside from their function what is their stylistic and artistic mission?

I don’t know about rules but I follow guidelines which are basically devised around “What would the most uninterested observer find admirable and compelling in a cufflink?” You don’t want this observer to find you foppish or  mass produced.

Maybe they reveal something about you but I would say as guidelines(I may have forgotten a few things) that I would follow:

1.    With some exception for colorful shirts, they should be bright, not too delicate or intricate and rich looking.
2.    They shouldn’t be too big or too small. That’s a case by case issue.
3.    They should neither be too light nor too heavy in weight.
4.    They shouldn’t be too intricate.

5.    People should be able to get their meaning at once and from a distance; unless you want people studying your cuffs.
6.    They should convey a neutral to light-hearted, clever or comic message. Unless you’re some sort of fanatic and congregate with the same religious, political or group oriented cufflinks (Masons for ex.) are to e avoided.
7.    Whether they are toggle backed or chain linked, they need to be designed well to give your wrist enough room (and maybe your watch) and so that the cufflinks sits properly against the shirt.
8.    Unless you’re trying to impress a given set, cufflinks should be somewhat universal in terms of their appeal.
9.    Although regarding 8 above it is advisible to have a connection to the cufflinks meaning if that meaning is universal. Don’t wear golf cufflinks unless you play golf.
10.    They should not protrude too much or be too thick and should not have sharp edges that could catch on sleeve linings, ties or suit fabrics.
11.    With a handful of opaque exceptions, stones/jewels are not good and the bigger they are, the more this is true. Jewels as accents in metal cufflinks are alright, the fewer, the better. A little lapis and onyx mixed with gold/silver is good. Cabochon jewels as accents are good. A tiny diamond for effect can be good.


I don’t mind a few violations, actually I prefer a few. No violations are boring.
Those coin cufflinks are cheesy. I don’t mind cheesy cufflinks so much as these are unoriginal and camp. Coins are very overdone as cufflinks.

Crystals are wrong for a man unless he is “precious” knows this fact and embraces it.

Gold, I like gold but 22k? Now that’s cheese overdrive. 18k is good and gold cufflinks should be on the small side because you run the risk that someone believes you’re too flamboyant or careless with money. If you’re a hip hop artist, get the big ones, otherwise, not. Even worse is that they give you a 9K mounting and clip?

Popularized mythical figure:  Cheesy because it’s common, cheesy because it’s a person, cheesy because it’s overdone, too intricate and complex a design requiring study. I could go on… I would rather have Tony the Tiger on my coin with a box of cereal and the legend “Theyyyyyyre Great!” or even the dragon sitting on its butt with a large belly and St. George’s armor lying around with the legend “Every Dragon has its day” Now who would put that on precious metal except someone with a sense of imagination, humor and cohones.

Usually, fine silver, with or without enameling, is good enough.

The toggle back doesn’t bother me that much a lot of that chain attachment being the only way is a faux rule, if it was ever a rule. That was someone else’s opinion. The toggle back might even be necessary due to the weight of the coin but it may be nicer to do an arc with the end piece toggling rather than this sort. And when you put them all together... Kah-Bluey


Wearing silver next to gold is fine, even mixing them it is when you mix two different colored golds that you develop trouble.

Use, what exactly did you want them for? I were going to a Swedish girls’ club I would want a pair that says “Blondes are best”.

Price. I suppose they figure if you’re silly enough to buy these then you’ll gladly let them make you homeless.  I think for half, maybe less, you could find an artist in London who works with metal or metal clay and get something original. If you did a coin you could do a fanciful one of your own design. Then someone would think it’s clever.

The flip side is that I hate cheap looking cufflinks. Inexpensive cufflinks don’t have to look cheap. Even gag cufflinks. Let’s say I got Bart Simpsons head on one side of the chain gold plated and his donut in gold on the other side with pink frosting and sprinkles, that would be unique and although silly wouldn’t look like they came from the Warner Bros. store. Also, this is a light hearted subject which men and women from all over can appreciate, relate to and “get”.

I have my own thing. I like movies, cartoons/comedy, sports and  I look for those.  You may have an interest that you look for or should do.

Unless they are really well done, expensive looking and in good condition I do not like vintage cufflinks. Those art deco and Edwardian ones I see auctioned are too small and just because theyre on a chain doesn’t mean they are ugly and uninspired.

You would wear cufflinks of Bart Simson?

I still use my grandfather's cufflinks, gold-tone inset with dark blue-green abalone shell in a 'TV screen' shape. Nothing special but obviously my most treasured pair.

When I was about seventeen I bought a pair of enamelled Guinness cufflinks from an antiques shop which I wore a lot for pub-going until I lost one of them - I still have the other one lying around for the day I lose an arm in a shark attack.

Little stainless steel shackles (marine suppliers) cost pennies and are smart as wrap-around links.

Mostly I wear 'cheap and cheerful' silk knots, good for desk work. They get positive comments from the fairer sex (and why the heck wear them if not for that?) and are otherwise pretty infrequently seen in my neck of the woods.
They are fun to coordinate with tie, socks, watch, jacket lining or whatever. Or choose jarring, clashing ones if you're in the mood.

Last edited by Moose Maclennan (2008-06-30 01:07:21)

Love your pointers, FNB, but I wonder if you could please post some pictures to example the sort of "custom made" cufflinks that would appeal to you?  I'm very unfamiliar with cufflinks, owning no French cuff shirts yet myself - but your idea to make them clever and humorous appeals to me greatly, and as soon as I've a reason to get some cufflinks I'm certain to draw-up something to be custom made as you've suggested.  But when you talk about chains and coins - I really can't picture what you're describing.  You're saying that you'd have a coin pressed with a design on it?  What about enamel covered with glass, set into gold, so that the design could be painted in color (which wouldn't be done on a coin, I assume?)

Thanks much, again, great insight.

Just looked on the Paul Stuart website, they dont have the devil version pictured, but they do have the angel pair shown. Its the same design though, but with red devils rather than blue angels.  I have a collection of devil insignia cufflinks and vintage lapel pins, so I am really kicking myself for not getting the 7 deadly sin versions.

Yes, those are the ones. I have the ones with only devils, no angels.

As to what the deadly sin ones looked like, they were very subtle. It was so long ago now (a couple years), that I cant recall the exact designs. All I can remember is that they were extremely well done. I believe some of them, since they were the chain type, had a devil (green on the envy one for instance) on one side, and on the other link a different icon that represented envy. Same for the other sins. They must have been made by the same manufacturer as the Paul Stuart ones as the devil design was the same.

The gluttony pair had the devil on one link and a sterling silver pig on the other link. Im trying to remember the others...