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#1 2008-09-08 06:45:51
- Matt
- Ivy Original.
- Posts: 332
Showing the right amount of cuff
The thread on 3/4 sleeves reminded me of this point.
Not strictly Ivy, but showing just the right amount of cuff under a jacket, really seems to make a difference, and it is something that usually escapes the attention of most people.
It is so subtle that most people aren't conscious of it, but it really makes a huge difference.
With no attempt to make a political point, it seems that GWB never shows cuff, and never looks very well dressed in spite of expensive suits. OTO hand, Biden and Prince Charles do show about 1/2" of cuff, and the difference in the overall impression is palpable.
In the US, it seems that the alteration depts in most retailers are the problem.
1. Many make both sleeves the same length, and since most men have the arms with the dominant hand that are longer, the cuff showing is different.
(Look at most guys that you see on the street, and it becomes apparent.)
2. Also, the alteration person consciously makes sleeves a bit too long, knowing that it is easy to shorten them, and difficult to lengthen them. Since most people don't know the differences, that is the way they leave to store.
The only solution that seems available is to measure the distance from the thumb to jacket sleeve on the jackets that work. Then insist on this distance to the alteration person. the response is usually " Sir, that is too short". That means that it will turn out just right.
Absolutely nothing to do wit 3/4 inch sleeves, but a random thought while shaving.
#2 2008-09-10 08:03:40
- Brideshead
- Member
- Posts: 417
Re: Showing the right amount of cuff
Yes, this is an interesting topic. Does Ivy style demand a different aesthetic I wonder?
Of course on AAAC and Style Forum they have just about examined the ins and outs of a duck's arse on this topic - as you would expect. For me one of the most interesting aspects of all is how the ideal look seems to have evolved over time.
I can recall a time (in the 80s) when showing cuff at all was seen as a bit too flash. Good thread here:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=62846&highlight=coat
#3 2008-09-10 13:08:58
- Matt
- Ivy Original.
- Posts: 332
Re: Showing the right amount of cuff
Good thread from SF, indeed, Brideshead. The topic doesn't seem to be Ivy specific, and I was hesitant to post it.
However, proper sleeve length seems to be such an important part of looking like you know what you are doing that it was worth a try.
Obviously a matter of personal taste, and no right answers. However, post #15 from SF thread seems to me to be as close to perfect as it gets. A bit of shirt cuff showing, and the same distance from thumb to cuff on both sleeves.
Good trouser break, and 1 3/4" cuff. Tasteful pocket square, and good combination of tie and striped shirt.
Others may not like the look at all, but it seems that the picture shows someone that is well dressed, but not in a way that screams for attention. The attention to small details helps put together a look of rather understated elegance.
In the US, in most situations calling for a jacket and tie, you will see men with sleeves covering up shirt cuff (ala GWB), no pocket square, trousers that don't hang properly, and poor taste, or lack of imagination with shirt and tie colors.
I got a lot of flames for this elsewhere, but you can almost always tell which guys have wives or GFs pick out their clothing and pass on final alteration decisions. All you have to do is to look at them.
#4 2008-09-11 09:00:18
- Hard Bop Hank
- Ivy Soul Brother
- From: land of a 1000 dances
- Posts: 4923
Re: Showing the right amount of cuff
From what I read, there are different "rules" about it:
In England, it's a "MUST" (at least, when the arm is bent), in the USA it's a "can"...
The Italians always do it, and tend to exaggerate it...
As with most sartorial subtleties the Germans don't seem to have the slightest clue about it, and usually go for too long, unless they got the tip from a good tailor, from business trips to other countries or from higher ranks... however, most people who show some cuff over here, have probably read about it in some lifestyle mag...
“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"
#5 2008-09-12 08:04:16
- Brideshead
- Member
- Posts: 417
Re: Showing the right amount of cuff
I agree that there do tend to be different rules.
The 'English look' demands it - but it is by no means common here to see that look well executed. I was in London yesterday and, in the City particularly, it was often well done. But that is not typical from my observation.
The question that I find interesting is the one about the demands of Ivy style in this area. Is it (showing an amount of cuff) important to achieving the Ivy look?
Point taken about wives and GFs - please don't cave in to that pressure.......
Last edited by Brideshead (2008-09-12 08:39:35)