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This was posted elsewhere but since some of the members here cannot partake in that discussion, I thought it would be interesting to get the learned lore here.
How would you compare Ercolino with Vincent & Edgar? I also know E.Vogel bus his lasts are rather stodgy.
I had two pairs of shoes made by Vincent and Edgar. The shoes are ugly and they do not fit properly. They also have serrated marks across the vamp, presumably where some sort of vice or clamp was holding the leather, which is indelible. Additionally, over a short period of the time the rear of the shoe became brittle and cracked along the heel's lip.
I believe Roman should be making orthotics for prosperous people with severe foot problems. Although, that’s only the way they look. To be sure, the way they feel would offer no relief to someone with chronic foot pain.
I understand that Flusser thinks very highly of them in his book Style and the Man but homeboy got this one wrong. He may have been speaking about the workmanship in a vacuum, which may seem impressive. The overall look and the fit leave a lot to be desired.
Anyone who tells you that those shoes are anything less than a disaster is speaking from ignorance and being very brave gambling with your money. Alternatively they may believe that we as a community of consumers are suckers who should think it funny to spend money and get refuse in return.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55983
Here is the thread from the island that talent forgot. Kabbaz is getting Schooled after being caught for shooting his mouth off without knowledge and then trying to back out of it with comments a shade less than the truth. Not the first time he's launched himself as an expert without any knowledge to back it up.
Not the first time is an understatement From English grammar to shirtmaking, from politics to tailoring, from mathematics to shoemaking... if you get my drift.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-07-10 00:59:39)
From culture to aesthetics to logic, it's a commodious vicus.
Damn. That boy got served. Good for Manton. He argues there reasonably, logically, rationally. Can't say the same for Pagliacci. It's embarrasing how far deep he dug himself. Plato/Aristotle bootcamp for him! The monk's a little more gentle toward Pagliacci then he deserves.
Lets keep it cool guys. Other people's personality disorders aren't our concern here. Lets keep it about the best custom shoemakers in NYC, of which there doesnt seem to be many. I never did the Oliver Moore shoes and maybe Grayson will show us some ercolino piccies?
Ill take a photo or two of a pair of my V&E disasters.
I have spent a fair penny going back and forth on this one. I am not at all convinced that I prefer custom shoes to OTR ones. Mind you, I have reasonably normal feet, so most manufacturers have a last that fits. My problem with custom mades is that I would rather a shoe be beautiful than to have it look much like the shape of my foot. What I do wish is that there were more shoemakers like Lattanzi and Vass who made handmade RTW shoes. That, I think, is a better product than custom or machine made RTW.
Absolutely true - manton helps people out on the internet by providing sound advice. He also wants to improve sales of his book.
What a horrible horrible person
manton gives very useful advice, and most importantly is very generous with it. As much as I respect marc's opinion, the fact remains his reviews are not always helpful as he tends to (rightly or wrongly) hate 95% of the tailors/shirtmakers/shoemakers out there
Youre out of breath?
Has anyone tried the gent in Brooklyn who was mentioned in the last Men's Vogue?
I have little doubt that marc is well qualified to make recommendations, and am very grateful to him for pointing me towards Raphael. However, as far as I know, I am the only member of AAAC/SF who goes to Raphael with any regularity due to Marc's rec (manton uses Raph as well but that was based on Shattuck's recommendation). My point was that when Marc lambasts every tailor apart from Raphael his reviews are not as helpful as others (Logsdail, all of Savile Row incl. several tailors he has never used etc.). I have seen severakl suits from Logsdail, and quite a few suits from SR, and the vast vast majority of them have been very fine garments.
So, while I have considerable respect for marc's experiences with various tailors and shirtmakers, his reviews are not as helpful as someone with his experience can make them
And to Cruz's point I fail to see how manton's reviews are tainted by "merchandising" - he doesn't get free suits from tailors he recommends and pays for them as we all do. And he has been dispensing useful advice on the forums well before the release of his book.
Last edited by Panzeraxe (2006-07-11 09:54:17)
Last edited by Horace (2006-07-12 01:06:04)
Best custom shoe maker in NYC??????
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