http://www.flickr.com/photos/stewf/92992467/
What a find. And to think that my haircut has a name - the 'butch'!
Oh my...
Ivy League:
The sides and back are cut short and tapered across the crown, and the hair gradually becomes longer and fuller toward the front. In a classic ivy league (shown in the illustration), enough hair is left in the front so that it can be neatly parted and styled, usually with pomade or gel. More contemporary ivy league cuts may style the hair upward or forward in the front, but are still generally neat cuts that follow the shape of the head.
Princeton Haircut
Q: What is a Princeton haircut?
A: The Princeton haircut is a classic men’s haircut style that has also been known by other names over the years. These names are all related: Princeton cut, the Ivy League cut, or the Collegiate Cut.
The cut was made popular in the 40s and 50s among the young campus men of the Ivy League schools. It was favored for its versatility – combining the short back and sides demanded by the social conventions of the day, with a longer top and fringe area that could be slicked back and styled for a clean-cut, well-groomed look, or left loose and free for a playful, tousled look.
The style has survived over the years, re-emerging in cycles, and slowly morphing from its original look. Even though the “Princeton Cut” of today may not be exactly the same as it was in its origin era, the details of the cut are the same.
The hair is cut around the lower perimeter following the men’s traditional styling: sideburns are cut as desired, the hair is cut around the ears and a squared nape area is created. The sides and back are tapered short at bottom to approximately 1-to-2-inches in the parietal ridge area and the hair on top increases in length from the crown area to the front/fringe area. The front length of the hair is as desired, but is generally 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches (whatever is appropriate to allow the hair to hang approximately to eye level).
Search function here, puts you in touch with some excellent threads. My personal favorite is the one by Hard Bop Hank on the Ceasar, perfect description.
The other one is by RS on the 842, several page thread, great pictures. The one that works best for me is exactly like the picture of the "Ruthless Roman", on Gerry Mulligan.
Wash it in the shower, no part to mess with, brush it once, and done for the day, neat, and for reasons that I have never understood, women love it.
Never seen anyone else here with one like it. Really hard to get local barbers to cut it right. You have to take in a picture the first time, and really insist that it be done right. You usually get conversation like "That is very short, and there is no part". "Right Bob, that is exactly like I want it."
Like getting the tailor to do the jacket cuffs to show the proper amount of sleeve. "Too short, sir". "Right, please humor me".
Once you have a barber trained how to cut the Caesar, it is a piece of cake from then on.
Jack Kennedy wore the classic Ivy League haircut. There has been a Phil's Barbershop in New Haven, CT since the 1930s. Go into the old shop on Wall Street and guess what you get. They have cut the hair for a lot of people that you know.
The horrible Bushs, Cyrus Vance, too many to mention. They had their hair cut by Rocky. He just retired. The store lives on, as does the haircut. Worth way more than they charge.
Tom brings up an interesting point. Where we live, haircuts seem to have a quality inversely proportional to the price.
The guy that I go to is quick, takes appointments, remembers exactly what you want, is an expert on jazz, and charges a lot less than what the product is worth.
When my guy was out of action, in the hospital for a few weeks, my wife said that the place she goes also cuts men's hair. I knew that I was in a lot of trouble, when the first stop was with the "shampoo girl" (much of which went down my shirt collar).
After a session with the "stylist", I left with the single worst haircut that I have ever had, to the tune of about $50. Didn't look as much like a haircut, as a preparation for brain surgery.
I've got a good friend that is in NYC all week. He gets his hair cut at a place that does news TV news anchors, etc. I imagine that the cost is about equal to lunch at the Four Seasons, and doesn't look any better that what you can get at "Bob the barber" here, for a lot less.
Rocky will be missed. My experience has been inconsistent with the other barbers at Phil's. I have a business man's cut.
Excellent point, Jim. As you say, could be a good subject for another thread.
However, it seems to come down to arriving at the point in life when you are totally comfortable with who you are, and aren't trying to be something else.
When you reach that point, (some never seem to), you revert to those things that work, require minimum effort with maximum benefit, and allow you to go about the business of "self actualizing", as Abraham Maslow put it. Self actualizing is infinitely more rewarding than trying to be something that others will approve of.
To get back on track, this would seem to include:
The local barber that gives a cheap haircut, but does it exactly like you want in 15 minutes.
LLB bluchers.
A cheap watch that keeps better time than a Rolex.
A serviceable car that sends out the message "this is reliable transportation, but I have no interest in using it to try to impress anyone."
The JP Harris tweed that really needs the leather elbow patches.
The sweatshirt that you mention, as well as the well worn khakis, OCBD and other things that many of us consider reliable old friends.
When you think of the 6 or 7 people that you really enjoy being around, you realize that no one has an agenda, is trying to impress, or really wants anything other than your company. Seems like much of the stuff that emerges here from time to time.
Really a stretch, my friend, but since barbers were mentioned, maybe this will pass muster.
Very busy of late but this is an excellent topic, worthy of an essay even esp with all of this going way beyond the clothes....looking forward to reading further comments as good as those made by Matt....
Jim may want to move this subject Alex, but the subject does seem to cry out for attention, even though we have strayed a bit from haircuts.
The subject is a part of a much larger cultural shift that we are going through, in the US, particularly on the east coast. Here, there is a large part of the culture made up of people under 40, who have never experienced much hardship, and have been able to accumulate material wealth that is significant.
Now, many of these men and women can be seen daily in the financial district carrying a pasteboard box out of their office, with a dazed look on their face, wondering what happened.
This shock is rippling through the environment at a rapid pace.
If we emerge, which we will, there will be a generation that has experienced adversity for the first time in their lives. Look back at your own situation. The good times don't build character. We get stronger by having to face and overcome adversity.
This gets us back to your point, Alex.
Empty lives filled with things, are still empty lives.
Thus, the favorite Ivy garb that we discuss here seems to embody a return to a more basic existence that has real value.
Matt - You make some excellent points. I am barely on the good side of 40 but I do remember coming out of school in 91 and having difficulty finding a job. I can now appreciate the good job I have now as I see others losing theirs.
After wearing OCBDs, chinos, loafers, repp ties, etc. in college, I began to wear more of the American Boardroom look for work. After discovering the AAAT forum, I developed an interest in sack suits and have slowly replaced other suits as they have worn out. I have also come to love the soft unlined collars in the Mercer shirts and am slowly replacing my spread collar french cuffed shirts with Mercer forward points.
My favorite look is my navy or charcoal sack, blue forward point shirt, repp tie, and tassel loafers. Not sure what this has to do with haircuts, but seems relevant.
Yes - Sorry - I've rambled away from Haircuts - I'll start a new thread for this interesting sideline. Matt's observations here are too good to let them get lost.
Best -
Jim
Check the collar styles which go with each haircut for a little sartorial social history!
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-12-09 05:51:02)
Why not?
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Ua_ODg0FmzQ
http://www.mrnussbaum.com/fr/kennedy.jpg