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#1 2008-12-02 11:38:47

Amdraman
New member
Posts: 1

Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?

In the summer of 2008 a 'new kid to the block', gents' suit maker in central London, won a case under the codes of the U.K Advertising Standards Authority (ASA). The tailor, Sartoriani, specialises in swiftly measuring clients for suits, machine cutting the cloth and running the garments up somewhere in Germany, then sending the semi-finished item back for a fitting and final alteration in London.  It claimed, through this process to be a "bespoke tailor".  This upset the prestigious community of tailors who make genuine hand made stuff for princes and paupers too - like me , in London's famous Savile Row.  But when the ASA got hold of the case they ruled for Sartoriani which claimed that "bespoke" was OK for them to claim because the "usage" of the word had evolved (or something) to embrace what Sartoriani was up to.  Instead of Sartoriani having to change what it advertised, the old established tailoring community had to do the re-thinking about its own presentations instead.

Like hundreds (perhaps thousands) of others, I saw the adverts and was attracted by the prices.  Made to measure by a Savile Row tailor for £500? It seemed too good to be true.  It was!  The fitting tailors do not know their basics, the service level is appalling and frankly the value is not all that.  They wait for clients to chase them for delivery data and seldom, if ever respond even to emails.  The only thing that got them moving for me was the very real threat of a County Court action.  This is all quite a long way from what I used to know as an infrequent but pleasurable, service dominated visit to my tailor.  It was infrequent because I am not wealthy and, yes, that hand-made suit cost me a lot of money.  But don't be fooled by this new slant on "bespoke"; it is nonsense.  What you are getting is no better than buying a quality suit  off the peg and getting your local tailor to alter it for you.  Sartoriani and others of their ilk can adopt the word "bespoke" if they want to but they have yet to learn how to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear - and that has nothing to do with the Super 140's the sew.

 

#2 2008-12-02 11:53:41

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?

If someone said they could get you a brand new Drop head Rolls Royce or a Ferrari Enzo for £30,000 would you believe them...? would you hand over your money...? Would you not be the least bit suspicious...?

It takes about 40/50 hrs on average for a tailor to make a suit. this equates to £10/hr not including material and trimmings. How can a tailor who works on the Row and has to carry the overhead, make a suit for less than £10/hr recovery rate...? You have to apply some common sense here. Some things are expensive because, well simply, they're expensive to make. Like the saying goes 'If you pay peanuts you get monkeys'...


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#3 2008-12-02 12:03:26

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?

"Bespoke" Savile Row tailor Richard James was just busted for having his suits made in Africa.  I wonder what the august Savile Row Bespoke Association (of which RJ is a member), created to protect the sanctity of Savile Row tailoring, has to say about this...

http://www.fuk.co.uk/news/tailor_tony_lutwyche_accuses_richard_james_false_made_england_labelling
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/made-in-england-sold-on-savile-row-ndash-but-stitched-in-mauritius-1040243.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0s5YG2nLgM

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-12-02 12:11:03)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#4 2008-12-02 12:15:38

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#5 2008-12-02 12:25:16

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#6 2008-12-02 12:31:36

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#7 2008-12-03 03:23:53

Ali Kebab
Member
Posts: 491

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?

http://www.sartoriani.com/index.htm#

PATHETIC

 

#8 2008-12-03 09:48:03

Skink
Member
Posts: 143

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?


Think like a man of action, and act like a man of thought.

 

#9 2008-12-04 11:27:44

tim_pinn
New member
Posts: 1

Re: Have you been 'Sartorianied' yet?

i fell for this cheap as chips gimick, i went to the showroom in old bond street and was taken aback by how bad the set up is for this company. did not take me long to figure out these guy do not have a clue on quality tailoring after asking to use the bathroom which i had to get to by battling my way through a long corridor cramed with peoples suits some of which were lying in heaps on the floor.
bespoke , made to meas whatever they like it to be called its not a quality product or service and i would hate to think i have paid 500 pounds for a suit that is sitting in someones bathroom ????
think ill stick to off the peg if this is whats on offer ,

 

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