I'll throw in Des Merrion's contrversial comments on drape.

http://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/folders/weblog/20080816/

"Stand by your beds, I am going to make no bones about it, the Anderson and Sheppard drape cut is not my bag of tea, I have seen it on several of my clients and I don't like it, it is too excessively loose and badly fitted to my eye. I make no apology to the above as my comment is based on what I have seen with my own eyes, not hearsay, or someone elses opinion, it is my own. The reason I have seen the cut on my client is because they did not like it either which is why they then came to me! I have personally held a coat around the back section whilst my client was wearing it and I had in excess of EIGHT INCHES of surplus cloth pinched in my hands, how is that a good fitting coat or even be claimed to be anywhere near it should be??

The problem I see is the people who love the drape cut and the drape look are ramming it down everyones throats on the various clothing forums. Now, there are some knowledgable people out there singing the praises of this and that, but the bottom line is no matter what, they do not have the expertise of a tailor or a cutter, if they are so expert maybe they should come and do our job for us?

Some argue you must have drape, and while this thought can be correct and a desirable way to go, this is not true for all. A coat can be cut without drape or excess fabric and still the garment will be supremely comfortable to the wearer. The first picture below is an example of what I mean.

The first picture shows the back of my coat with my arms by my side ( the coat nor the sleeves have not been pressed ) The back is very clean with no excess across the back, I don't want, require or need any excess here as I take an 11 1/2" half back measure to start with.

The picture above shows me with my arms folded in front of me, I can do this with ease and it is effortless to move my arms fully to the front or up. The reason I can move so freely? the armholes placement is correct both vetically and horizontally and combined with the sleeves this dictates the amount of freedom of movement here, not drape. So the next time you are told drape is the best and the only way to go have a good hard think."

That should start some discussion!

Last edited by formby (2008-09-17 14:28:00)

A friend, whilst having a drink at his club, volunteered a story about one of his fellow members. The young man, who had just started in the City, had just accepted his first bespoke suit that was made by Anderson & Sheppard. My friend commented that the fit and finish were far below what he would have expected from a famous Savile Row tailor. In particular, the button holes were poorly finished.

I have been appalled by uppercase's description of his experience at A&S. Perhaps his coat was the one that Des Merrion commented on. Uppercase has been far too kind and generous about the firm and Mr Hitchcock. There is no excuse for skipping fittings, especially for a new customer. The insistence on a house style coat is bizarre. Surely the raison d'etre of going to a Savile Row house is to ensure that the suit is made EXACTLY to one's specifications. IMHO, uppercase got a MTM coat at a bespoke price. It may not have been using a house block but the result is very similar.

I was not impressed by A&S nor Mr Hitchcock when watching the recent Savile Row documentary and get the impression that the firm's standards have slipped alarmingly. Perhaps others can comment on their experiences.

Someone once said that the most important thing to A&S is that they, not the client, like the outcome of their suits.  I could definitely see having one or two A&S jackets for their unique cut, although having a whole A&S wardrobe does require a full commitment to their style.

Bishop of Briggs wrote:

'....My friend commented that the fit and finish were far below what he would have expected from a famous Savile Row tailor. In particular, the button holes were poorly finished...'

Last year when my own tailor was flavour of the month over his 30 grand suit. One forum denzien on LL decide to have a pop at the quality of his handwork. The said iComedian ....er... sorry iGent is a customer of A&S which I found highly amusing; however, as it turned out there was a subtext to his little dig and it involved another iShit who coincidently Marc G. has had issue with in the past, on a similar matter.

DM, isn't the best sewer(?) in the world and nor does he claim to be, but he's a damn site more of a all round talent that 80% of the tailors on the row, in fact he's repaired botched SR suits from some of the prominent 'houses'.

I would never use the row to be honest, and I'm embarrassed to say that because I'm English, but I find their arrogance breathtaking, some of them seem to have what can only be described as contempt for their clientèle and I personally cannot stand a lack of professionalism and care when dealing with a client. I also take issue with Hitchcock's attitude as well; it's not up to him to decide whether a suit is acceptable it's up to the customer (within reason of course) and I've seen this kind of stunt pulled before to get a customer/client out of the door and it doesn't wash with me I'm afraid.