Cliffo on Modculture drew my attention to this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gant_U.S.A.
Very good for Wiki, no?
J.
GANT my favourite label brand, Have purchased at least 5 items this year.
Mostly casual wear.
I remember Hathaways as havng an "H" on their tails in the 80's too... Used to get them in Simpsons, Piccadilly, I did, from those layered, slightly greenish, frosted Art Deco glass shelves down near the doors onto Jermyn Street...
Last time I went for some they'd lost the box pleat and just had those shoulder tucks. I didn't buy, but chatted to the camp old duck who was down there on duty by the till - "Do you find you need that extra room to expand?" He asked when I said I wanted shirts with that box pleat. 'Hello Sailor' I thought and made my excuses...
Ya couldn't make this stuff up...
J.
Hey Russell Street. Is that Marlon Brando in your avatar? It looks very much like him..
That’s true re: Gant. A surprisingly concise and informative for a Wikipedia entry. Were other shirts really considered just knock-off of Gant’s? Is that correct? Perhaps the slightly older American contributors could comment on that claim. I did pick up a mid 60’s Gant half sleeve ocbd recently and it is a beautifully made shirt. The cloth is particularly fine. Retailed by Roos Atkins of San Francisco. A fairly high roll to the collar, with rear button, sissy-pull/hanging loop and a fairly wide central box pleat. Not for nothing does the label call it ‘The Hugger’. A full chest tapers quite radically to the waist. It’s in a pale chambray with pale green and pumpkin vertical stripes for those interested. No little red ‘G’ sewn on btw.
Staceyboy
That’s true re: Gant. A surprisingly concise and informative for a Wikipedia entry. Were other shirts really considered just knock-off of Gant’s? Is that correct? Perhaps the slightly older American contributors could comment on that claim. I did pick up a mid 60’s Gant half sleeve ocbd recently and it is a beautifully made shirt. The cloth is particularly fine. Retailed by Roos Atkins of San Francisco. A fairly high roll to the collar, with rear button, sissy-pull/hanging loop and a fairly wide central box pleat. Not for nothing does the label call it ‘The Hugger’. A full chest tapers quite radically to the waist. It’s in a pale chambray with pale green and pumpkin vertical stripes for those interested. No little red ‘G’ sewn on btw.
Staceyboy
until quite recently i always thought gant WAS a swedish ivy imitator brans, quite like the scandinavian ralph lauren or the like. i used to have quite a severe label prejudice towards it (like i've confessed on some other thread eralier on - i really should contribute to the label prejudice thread started by alex..), but have discovered that some of gant items are rather nice. local gant store offers some really nice narrow ties for instance and yesterday i spotted a very nice madras-like checked bd shirt, with three buttons as in proper ivy shirts. not sure whether the fabric was real madras though. had my finances been better i'd bought it right away.
h.logg.. very good point as for 'proper'. i should have used some other description, like 'vintage', or 'subcultural' osr 'as seen in blue note record covers'. or perhaps 'the way I like it'. i really should have noticed that, even more so as i'm quite agaiunst any rule book mentalities whatsover.
so, 'proper' ivy shirt for me would be like this. 3 button collar, with great roll, centre back pleat, preferably sewn in (not obligatory lol), slim-ish cut (not by all means tight - wouldn't then suit to my carefully beer & bbq -built middle lol). both short and long sleeves will do, i like the v cut + button / buttons detail on short sleeve shirts.
as for color & fabrics, i'm 'saruman of many colors' as all these will do: striped or plain oxford cloth or madras (esque) plaid check or gingham check, in various colours / combinations, however, i tend to have most liking for red, orange and yellow in the cocour spectrum and less for green, perhaps.
yes, the gant ties i mentioned are the striped ones. have to get some even though i hardly ever wear one.
'as seen in blue note record covers' - I like that definition.
I'm into ASIBNRC-Ivy as well.
Back to Gant, I was at a Gant store recently and there were quite a lot of nice things. I didn't buy anything though. Fabrics weren't that great but I liked a lot of the colours that Gant uses. The brand (or at least their marketing department) seems to scream 'HERITAGE' at the moment, which is a little off-putting, but I can get past it.
There's a Gant store on the outskirts of my hometown I regularly visit, but have only bought a pair of jeans there over the years ( on sale ) and two pairs of socks ( baby blue and pink ) on my last visit. I've noticed I liked their S/S 08 range a lot more than usual which has probably also to do with the 'heritage'comments made earlier.
Furthermore I own a candystripe BD with the nicest roll one could imagine ( two ply poplin, single back pleat, locker loop, full body with slight taper ) and also a very handsome GNH SB raincoat in off white I bought in a department store in town ( the Gant corner being situated next to the RL department, which is separate really ), one of my most prized possessions I can tell. Very Ivy....
The Gant label gets a fair mention in my latest essay as it happens, it's not a fave as such but then again no label is or should be really. The Look comes before that obviously, but it's certainly worth to keep an eye on Gant to make your pick every now and then IMO.
Alex
funny enough, i bought the madras-like shirt i mentioned earslier on my lunch hour as local gant store had it 40 5 off as wasn't yesterday. tomorroww i'll wear the shirt with the same strides i'm having today, topped wit either a red g9 or navy g 4. i imagine the shit will look great with dark denim as well, especially untucked. then it has to be warm and i don't wear a harrington over it of course.
Last edited by heikki k (2008-08-07 05:36:39)
The 'Trad' condom has cropped up a few times elsewhere by those wishing to cause a stir as I recall...
My knowledge of them is limited to American teenage movies I'm afraid. In fact have never actually even seen one in real life ouside of its wrapper. True, that.
- Along with my boast that I have never played football in my life this is one of the four fascinating things about me.
The writer misspelt Paul Stuart. And did Gant really make anything for Brooks? I thought Brooks was then almost exclusively its own maker, save a few things in its lowest lines during sometime in the mid 50's onward. I could be wrong though.
That guy that re-did the Weejun -- forget his name. He recently made an American-made version. He also did a new Gant that was claimed to have been an old-school cut with details. Anyone ever check it out?
http://www.gant.com/60years/
The anniversary collection looks pretty interesting I think....
Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-10-11 02:08:14)