I have a bolt of the 11 oz one carried by Smith. The plain diagonal weave tan wih a red back similar to the one in the first photo. I was going to do it in DB but I cannot make up my mind.
This fabric lends itself well to spectators, especially the black and white version.
Imagine, nice wedgewood blue shirt, black and white tie, black and white shoes, and a wedgewood or airforce blue pair of socks.
I think it is a bad move to go DB. It will wear too hot. I agree with Cruz that Solaro wears well in summer, but doubling up the front will make it unbearable. I also think that it would look bad. However, I love the fabric.
this holds true in Biella as well. The Barbera mill/castle is on a river. The quality of the water ipacts the finishing of the cloth, not the weave. By the way Colombo is a top notch Italian mill renkown for its Cashmere. Cruz, what brings you/keeps you in Stutgart ( sp ) and is there anything of sartorial interest in the city famous for its automotive heritage.
http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau/grande.php3?idfoto=525
I thought true Solaro was Made in England and available in only one color (red/tan), one weight (330 gr), and 4 patterns (3 herringbones and one that here is called 'grana di riso').
Other tones/shades etc should be different kinds of gabardines.
ps) who said that bespoke trousers should be unlined? It's a matter of personale taste, nothing more. Half lining is extremely common and apreciated in Italy.
Last edited by Daniele (2006-07-18 02:21:39)
i just had a pair of linen pants made that were unlined. I think for the summmer weights it is very commom that they not be lined.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-07-18 05:20:34)
Solaro, underappreciated, the "original" trademark 13 ounce version only by Smith. The Columbo cloth is interesting. Years ago Lesser did a 7 ounce Italian variant in herringbone, plain weave, in tan/red, olive, grey/blue. Not easy to mill, and they had quality problems so they never repeated it.
Smith Solaro is very hard finished, beautifully drapes, and invariably elicits favorable comments, at least in the tan/rust classical versions.
I am think of using my 12/13 oz piece of solero from Smith woolens to make a SB raincoat with a wrap around style belt. Maybe even 3/4 length, rather than full length.
Smith has 4 or 5 variants, all the same color pallette but different designs: herringbone, large and small, rice, rhomboids, conventional gabardine, and so on. I would think only the regular gabardine would work for a car coat or full length raincoat. There are only a few days per year where this color seems to work, at least in the Northeast.
Saw a guy on Madison and 76th this spring with a SB suit, 2 button. Very, very nice, classic Solaro.