Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-12-27 07:16:08)
Post # 10957 is AAAT 'Trad':
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48726&page=439
I'm happy he's happy, but this is just Internet stuff. Not The True Trad.
The Jermyn Street shirt with the Brooks suit & the Peal shoes...
The True Trad, or whatever label you give it was the popular style, in many different forms throughout much of the twentieth century.
Since departing Andyland, I have been intrigued by the authentic, historical stories given in these forums by those who lived it. We have covered the Northeast, Midwest, and of course at AAAT, the Southern parts of the US. Others have touched on their experiences in London and Paris, which has been enlightening to this Midwestern boy.
What has been mentioned, but not chronicled, is the look as it existed, and may still exist, in parts of California. Is there an arm of Ivy or Trad that stems from San Fransisco, etc?
It was mentioned that in Malloy's book, San Fransisco looked much like Boston, but I am certain there must be differences.
What do you remember?
In the late 50's-early 60'6-the days of my mis-spent youth-trad was the environs of Madison Ave. in the 40's: The real BB, along with J.Press and Chipp, along with Frank Bros./Fenn-Feinstein in the 57th Street corridor. Tripler and Dunhill Tailors were the Anglicized versions.
Question regarding The Preppy Handbook. I believe it was Coolidge who posted that preppy as found in the OPH and not the RL version was what trads wear on the weekend. I did not grow up the Northeast and do not have first hand knowledge of the way people dressed, but my understanding is that is was a fairly accurate portrait.
When Mr Meyer and I were getting started, we were fortunate to be able to see the true TNSIL at BB, JP, etc. In other parts of the country, most were not so fortunate, and had to rely on the local retailer to get it right; most didn't.
There were a few BB stores in the US, as men that went to school in the northeast migrated further west. However, most major cities didn't have a BB. Yes, I know there was one in Chicago. However, after getting transferred to Dallas, we were reliant on the traveling BB rep that would show up twice a year. The rep would travel by train, with a large stock of samples.
He would rent a hotel suite, and notify customers that he would be open during a few days in Dallas. After getting started in NYC, it was easy to go through his samples, and order from the rep. He knew your size, taste, and budget, and recommended accordingly. I remember once asking him what was new, and he said "nothing, you have one of everything that I do."
BB clothing would then appear on customers in the local area, and when asked where you got your suits, word of mouth would get the rep another customer during his next trip.
I'll always feel that these traveling BB reps, acted as "missionaries" that spread TNSIL throughout parts of the US that didn't have a retail outlet. BB used their customer base, served by the traveling reps to determine when the market was right to open a retail operation.
Some differ, but I still feel that the lack of GTH stuff that is prevalent in the South is because taste in the midwest and northeast was a bit more subdued, but also because the BB rep had limited space to carry samples on the train, and didn't bring the lime green trousers, etc. that flourished in the south when they developed their bolder versions of TNSIL.
Or so it seems.
Matt: While from NYC, I went to college at the University of Wisconsin, and most of the frat guys , who were largely from the Midwest, dressed Ivy League. Esquire Magazine-a very different publication then-sponsored an annual party at our house (Chi Phi), and there was an excellent "trad" clothing shop on campus, McNeill and Moore. Rather than being a minority style of dress, Ivy was rather the norm on campuses then, with a small set of guys who favored a "continental" look, and JFK was the sartorial hero.
Great input from all - My thanks.
This is the world which is now so elusive. It's what people are looking to connect with, but because they never really knew it they lose themselves in day-dreams instead.
But the reality, when we can find it, is so much more interesting.
Let's take this further -
Best,
this is the best trad thread so far, on any forum
Not too long ago 'The Corduroy Suit Question' raised its head yet again on AAAT - With the forum deciding once more that it was not Trad even though an advert was produced showing that it was regarded as Trad (and even by that name!) back in the 50's. Alden posted the add, some college shop out in the sticks somewhere.
The feeling seemed to be that those who remembered Corduroy suits in the 70's decided that the suits did not have the right associations to be considered Trad today, even though they had been Trad in the '50's & '60's.
Very illuminating I thought.
A true Tradition doesn't work backwards. You can't say that elements of history do not have their place in history just because they don't fit in with your (later) prejudices. That isn't Traditionalism, it's revisionism.
A very different thing.
No?
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-12-29 08:22:27)
amen, to that, nepphew. i'm innit for the truth
hi gomie. long time no see old boy. should pop in alittle more.
shooey