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#1 2008-12-23 11:46:17

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#2 2008-12-23 12:33:54

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

I like the top one. Over here that's in the Chatsworth range, I like them all. The Devonshire range is nice as well, even though it could be consider by some, to be a bit effeminate.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#3 2008-12-23 12:57:07

Shirtmaven
Member
From: NYC
Posts: 50

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

the collars all look to structured for casual short sleeve shirts.
they should have used a softer lining in the collar
they also could use a different button.
they look to much like dress shirts.

 

#4 2008-12-23 13:25:20

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#5 2008-12-23 14:00:17

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#6 2008-12-23 14:32:25

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#7 2008-12-23 16:13:45

Shirtmaven
Member
From: NYC
Posts: 50

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

Everyone has a different idea of casual/sporty.
the stays are not the issue.
He just used heavier band and collar lining then I would have used, if i made these shirts for my self or a customer.
If you are going to wear these under a  tailored sport coat, then I guess you would want a collar with more body.

We all have different ideas of "What is Hip".  To me, these are old man shirts that you could find in the Maus and Hoffman catalogue, carroll & company, etc.

Atam could have found you better buttons on his way to the bus station!

the white shirt could have used a natural coroza button or a natural (non-White) shell button if you wanted it to look more relaxed.

The red print is fun. I just would have softened up the collar.
the windowpane is just Ugly.  I am not shy to wear large obnoxious patterns. this one has too much white in it to look fun.

Carl

Carl

 

#8 2008-12-23 17:53:49

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#9 2008-12-23 23:11:29

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#10 2008-12-24 05:28:14

Shirtmaven
Member
From: NYC
Posts: 50

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

Next time.
Make Atam dig out the fabrics hidden under plastic behind the desk or on the bottom shelves. pick out the stuff that his father bought 20-30 years ago. Or you are welcome to buy something out of my inventory to give to him. Or Wander through Mood Fabric.

Make sure they wash and shrink the fabric.

Straighten out the points instead of that moderate spread, use a 2.5-2.75" collar point. Have him use his regular band lining so the collar will stand. but have him use a  much softer lining and lose the stays.
use a sport front, this has a larger turnback. if the fabric is really light, it can be top stiched down. the stitch will show, but it give the shirt a casual look.

cut a deeper yoke
then use a one piece "Shagen Collar". this is the same as a regular collar except there is the band and leaf are all one piece.  Not a PJ collar.
Ask him use the soft flannel fuse, that the better Italian shirtmakers are using.
If he doesn't have it, I will tell him where to get it, or give him a piece.

You will end up with a much more interesting shirt.

Last edited by Shirtmaven (2008-12-24 05:29:54)

 

#11 2008-12-27 12:27:52

zb
Member
Posts: 11

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

FNB, 
     This is something I have been toying with a bit in my head lately, but havn't quite had the time to mess around with.  I think this could be a very useful sort of garment for dressing well in casual situations.  I agree with carl that you should really go for a different sort of collar though.  Otherwise it can look like a dress shirt trying to be something it is not.  I always liked the Barbera 1 piece version of the button-down without the top button myself.  The great thing about a bespoke version of the short sleeve is that you can really get creative with all the styling details as tradition does not apply.
     I wanted to ask you what kind of hem/tail treatment do these shirts have.  I would think a vent construction would be the most versitile as the shirt would be clean both tucked or untucked.
     As for fabric, I like you choices.  I think they give you options for a variety of situations.  I think the third check  probably works well for you.  Those are colors that obviously flatter you, and I think that with a little summer color, and especialy worn under a jacket, the white base of that shirt will appear crisp and fresh and will focus attention to your face like a necktie.
     I have been thinking about trying a foulard for under a jacket in the summer.  I thought this might me a younger, and less affected and costumy alternative to an ascot.  What do you think?  If I can get a chance to work on some things for my self I'll post pictures and see what you think.

-Z

 

#12 2008-12-28 22:09:59

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#13 2008-12-29 01:52:07

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#14 2008-12-29 14:58:35

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#15 2008-12-29 15:16:41

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#16 2008-12-29 23:31:39

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

Short sleeve shirts are great, you can be a bit more creative and very few people wear good quality and well-fitting ones so they're quite a unique look.

The collars I have for mine are button-down, Korean, and Pajama (1-piece). Great opportunity to use those really decadent and colorful fabrics you've been hesitating to use for normal shirts.

I've posted pics of mine but couldn't find these... I'll try to take some new shots and post.

 

#17 2008-12-30 09:09:39

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#18 2008-12-30 22:23:41

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#19 2009-04-29 07:37:23

DapperDan
Member
Posts: 54

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

 

#20 2009-05-12 12:53:46

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Custom made, short sleeved shirts

Ive got some more short sleeved shirts, watch this space

 

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