Several people in cyberspace have contacted me recently about my past experiences with London tailors Fallan & Harvey. While a small coterie of F&H customers, consisting of two or three people who may or may not be qualified to judge quality bespoke tailoring, speak glowingly of F&H, extreme caution should be exercised in using bespoke tailors based on Internet chatter. Apparently, F&H is out of business, not surprisingly to me, however, I'd nevertheless be wary of employing the services of anyone formerly associated with the firm and now at another firm.
Tell us the storey again Grayson. Tell us how Fallan and Harvey failed to get your basics right, people need to know that it's not all roses. Glad you started this topic.
So, is there a tailor in all of Blighty that you would recommend? Or that you might like to try should the opportunity and circumstances require it?
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2009-01-09 20:41:33)
Just a few of my brief thoughts...
I think the quality of tailoring is declining in England and probably in the U.S as well. There's just a smaller pool of talent to pick from these days, nobody wants to learn to be a tailor in England, therefore as the older tailors retire or die there's no flesh blood coming through to replace them. Also this smaller pool of talent means that tailors who would not have got work before due too poor workmanship now get work because there's no one else to do it. I should imagine the situation is similar in the U.S as well. When one hears on the fora about great tailors in the U.S they always seem to be Italian emigres and of advanced years.
I think the same will happen in Italy also, I just think there just a little behind on the curve that's all, but, it will happen and soon.
There is also problems inherent in the travelling tailor business model. Tailoring is by it's nature highly personal, and I don't think that level of relationship can be can be cultivated successfully by a travelling tailor regardless of how good s/he is, there's just too much than can go wrong and the temptations to take short cuts to expedite the suit along, too great.
I also think the problem lies with some clients as well. Just perusing the forums recently there seems to be some customers who don't know what the f**k they want. You can identify these customers as the ones who flit from tailor to tailor and are never satisfied with anything they receive, then they bad mouth the tailors they've used. These clients would be better buying high branded RTW and getting a good alterations tailor to tweak the fit and leaving bespoke alone. Bespoke is not for everyone.
Maybe, men that are considering bespoke for the first time would be better served using a tailor who has a definite style for their first few suits, as I don't think they have the experience to work with a more flexible tailor because increased flexibility can require increased customer input for optimum results, and these men lack the experience and language to give that input so they end up with the proverbial sack of sh*t. Great results can be had with these tailors but at potentially greater risk.
Great tailoring can be had on the Row, but you may have to be just more demanding that you thought. This unfortunately doesn't suit (pun intended) some men's personality though.
To sum up. There are bad tailors everywhere, however, there are even more 'bad' customers.
Last edited by formby (2009-01-10 06:09:53)
You wouldn't think getting new tailors in England would be a problem because the tailoring houses still have plenty of work. Apparently there are still a lot in Italy and Japan.
In the USA, there really aren't many tailors left. There are problems with American tailors that the English dont have (Although they are developing them) and vice versa.
American tailors, unless they were groomed somewhere with a house taste, suffer from lack of overall class-elegance and the English, while having managing directors who keep the taste and vision alive) retain a little too much production line. That would be fine if they didn't source out so much work to an independent pool of tailors.
As for customers Formby, if reading some of the boards is any indication, their derangements are legion. The rise of the iTailor has given voice to every OCD fantasy that ever plagued a man. The final straw is not just resurrecting the dead drape silhouette but having the nerve to declare it is the best look around.
If someone told you online how to repair a car and they didnt have any training or direct experience, you would think theyre mad but this move the button stance, drop the shoulder advice from guys ordering from online discounters is beyond the pale. Is the final straw the ability to detect the quality of wool fabric by rubbing it together with your fingers?
Last edited by formby (2009-01-11 07:46:19)
igents prefer A&S.
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8575