Film Noir Buff Style Forum / The Oxford Debating Society...

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:01:44

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:02:58

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Oxford_cloth.jpg

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:04:23

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:09:11

Leany's Ox. blog: http://acontinuouslean.com/2008/09/03/obsession-the-oxford-cloth-button-down/#comment-4066

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:12:25

http://tsgmenswear.com/images/1225259104699-190700079.jpg

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:13:51

http://www.eddiejacobsltd.com/images/shirts_ties/cotton_oxford_shirts_01.jpg

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 04:23:06

http://teegardennash.com/media/*MS/NorthByNorthwest.jpg

1966 · 2009-02-17 04:57:37

Trompe-l'œil

Everyone else might think
The shirt you're wearing's pink,
But you, you know alright
Deep down it's red and white.

Last edited by 1966 (2009-02-17 05:10:44)

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 05:47:29

For me:

Mainly Regular. I like/liked the LE Hyde Park Beefy. Beyond that I think the fetish for heavy cloth is an iGent thing. Historically cloth came in various weights. It's just daft to think that if it's heavy then it's the most 'authentic'. When Ben Silver stopped their Beefy Oxford there was a lot of phony Boo-Hoo-ing going around. I alone pointed out that that particular shirt was only a late 90's invention.
I like the basic stuff best, Pinpoint & Royal look slimy & shiny & wrong to my eyes. If I wanted a finer fabric I pick one rather than trying to tart up a workhorse cloth like Oxford.
As for colours - What have you got? I like to keep it kinda classic though. I'm a very conservative person.
What makes? Whoever makes a good product. I still love the button-down best tho', plain, striped & checked. I love them ironed, semi-ironed & unironed. I don't have any agenda re: non-iron shirts. I have a few, but not many. I'd rather have the options that a must-iron gives in terms of the different finishes which you can give the fabric. 'Dimpled' Oxford Cloth is a delight!
As for the last two questions I wear Oxford cloth all the time all year round. Mainly in shirts & boxers & shorts in the Summer, but I wouldn't rule out trou., jackets and ties.

j.

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 05:51:03

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 06:05:39

The Oxford shirt pyramind:

1) Troy Shirtmakers Guild!
2) Brooks.
3) Press?
4) Sero.

But it gets tricky if you've got a Press shirt made by Hathaway... What would you call that excellent thing?

I'd put Gitman & even Silver in the list, but lower down. Old Arrows need to be mentioned too which raises another problem - Vintage vs. new? Vintage Arrow is great, modern is not so great.

I'm sorry I started this now...

Some other lost names: Lion of Troy, Georffrey Scott, Par-Ex of New Haven, the other Dickies, Tru-Val (was it? The ones that Ben Sherman copied from John Simons), and on & on & on...

Gant? Van Heusen even. Enro?

And how about LL Bean & LE?

Then there's Mr. David Mercer...

And, and, and -

Thoughts?

j.

Decline & Fall · 2009-02-17 07:44:49

Let's not throw out the baby with the bath-water. The shirt gets so good w/ age it's crazy. The OCBD is a great shirt, fetishization aside. The Brooks in a slim-fit is a killer shirt, as is the LE Hyde-Park. The J-Press one is a lot of fun, if a little tent-ish. The pocket's a nice feature. I think it's bagginess isn't a factor if under a jacket (and the pocket can do a little a peek-a-boo) and it works well during the summer untucked over shorts w/ the sleeves rolled up.

However, I do think that I have under-appreciated the pinpoint bd, which is perhaps a less rough and ready shirt.

We need to start fetishizing ginghams and tattersalls, I think (which is really me admitting that I already do it).

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-17 08:04:00

Go 'head - I'll back you.

Staceyboy · 2009-02-17 13:19:36

Hard Bop Hank · 2009-02-17 14:03:51

heikki k · 2009-02-17 14:15:39

as for new-ish gant shirts i agree on as for the oxfords. last autumn, however, i bought a gant new haven range madras-esque shirt on a sale and the collar was spot on. the roll is very nice, the shirt has become one of my fave ones and i wear it quite a lot these days.

arrow - oh yes, scored a striped vintage one a few years back and the roll is rather nice, perhaps not on a brooks / sero level though. haven't got any experience whatsoever on the new ones though.

Last edited by heikki k (2009-02-17 14:16:08)

Hard Bop Hank · 2009-02-17 14:41:22

http://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=1434&Product_Id=206488

that's on sale:

http://www.josbank.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=&pcount=&Product_Id=99

I like pin point oxford for tab collar shirts... Otherwise I prefer the rough stuff, too....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQ9h2njc0O8

Got a few non-iron ones, too...

Arrow also used to make great tab collar shirts...

It's not heresy, is it? I always feel more "myself" in a button down shirt, and they are more comfortable, but once in while something else is nice...

Any other tab collar fans?

Decline & Fall · 2009-02-17 14:52:59

Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-02-17 14:53:33)

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-18 01:19:28

I'm torn on BD Baggies - A bit of a cod brand, but then again so is Bills. I've got 'em & I wear 'em.

Hathaway - Mine were from Simpsons and pre-JS they were an addiction after I left Van H. & Arrow behind. Never knew Austin Reed stocked them. Thanks for the memories!

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-18 02:23:28

There was some talk yesterday of the LLB 'Weekend' Oxford shirt on AAAT - A great S/M/L casual shirt. I've got a couple.

AAAT had it that it was the 'last of the must-irons' at LLB as if it was some old and venerable product that they were losing - A favourite thing for Trads that, mourning. In reality it was a brand new product which Bean played with and stopped. Maybe they'll stock it again one day. But it wasn't 'the last' of anything - It was something new.
I'd need to check the catalogues but I think the 'Weekend' was in fact brought in AFTER the regular OCBDs had already gone non-iron over at LLB. The must-iron regular Bean OCBD was the tradition, not the 'Weekend'.

This is like the mourning of the Ben Silver Beefy Oxford was - These are brand new products being tried out & then dropped if they don't do enough business. What is there to mourn as if ye old tradition is being lost to us? It's all just posturing & fakery.

Or as Horace has mentioned in the past just 'Poor Scholarship'.

j.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-02-18 02:26:41)

Taylor McIntyre · 2009-02-18 02:31:41

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91533

#1 2009-02-17 04:01:44

The Oxford Debating Society...

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