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#1 2006-08-09 03:36:13
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Hello all,
After a number of painful experiences, I have settled on a tailor here in the UK who cuts a structured, English coat. I love the English silhouette, but after picking up another suit in the same silhouette, I thought the time was right to try something slightly different.
I posed the same question over at AAAC, and thought I would do the same here.
I know a number of the members here love the Neapolitan style and I recalled Manton's excellent essay on suit silhouettes (http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.php?p=45476&postcount=6). However, I was extremely fascinated by the "classic Roman silhouette" and the Roman "soft" suit described in that essay. I remember thinking that the silhouette would work nicely for me. I'm 6ft 3, and I think it would look nice while still slightly different to the other English-cut suits I have. I also recalled Marc's excellent pictures of his Raphael suits (posted a while back on the Modern Man forums and how well cut they looked on him).
I will be in New York in November and I hope to (finally) get a sports-coat made by Raphael Raphaelli (sp?). I have not heard a bad review regarding his work yet.
I would love to hear from anyone who has had suits made in Rome, NYC or elsewhere in the Roman silhouette. I hope this thread will turn out to be a listing of reputable tailors (and entry price) that offer the Roman silhouette regardless of the tailor's entry price (from Raphael to the tailor working in a Rome side-street).
Have a great day,
Bolaji
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#2 2006-08-09 05:26:14
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Could anyone clarify if there actually exists a Roman style of bespoke tailoring? To me it seems there exists no such strong regional boundary in the Italian sartorial tradition, with the exception of the more "consistent" Neapolitan style. To my untrained eyes, the work from Roman tailors can vary from very soft to structured, without salient features like, say, the Neapolitan "a mappina" sleevehead (with the caveat that normally this feature is reserved to casual jackets), although obviously Italian in a general sense. To me, Brioni doesn't necessarily represent the Roman style (if there actually exists such thing), or such movies like Dolce Vita, etc. If someone has more info or a better eye please correct me if I'm wrong.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-08-09 05:27:38)
#3 2006-08-09 06:26:29
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Guys,
Marc and Cruz, posts like yours is why I keep coming back to this forum. Sound responses based on experience.
I have to say that from the pictures I have seen, I much preferred the Raphael pattern to the Brioni pattern. Unless I am mistaken, The Donald is a Brioni customer and I do not like his suits one bit. The Raphael coats were structured, but the chests were clean and not so built up. Minimal padding on the shoulder, just the way I like it. Manton described the Raphael coat as a Roman "soft" silhouette.
Marc, please if you don't mind, could you post (or PM) Raphael's contact details and entry price? Everytime I make a note of his details, I misplace it somewhere else. I came up with the idea of a sports-coat as an initial "test". I am thinking of getting some fabric from W. Bill in London with me on my trip to New York.
I wonder if there are any tailors in Rome (or anywhere else for that matter) who cut a similair coat to Raphael?
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#4 2006-08-09 07:25:33
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-08-09 07:31:00)
#5 2006-08-09 08:32:52
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I think you are getting bad advice here...
#6 2006-08-09 08:57:49
- Panzeraxe
- Member
- Posts: 146
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I agree with marc - the best place in NYC, for what most describe as a Roman suit, is Raphael. He is at 212.888.6887
#7 2006-08-09 09:07:41
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-08-09 09:11:06)
#10 2006-08-09 09:22:44
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I don't know it off hand. It is not far from the Eden Hotel, but I do not imagine that this is very helpful information.
Edit: 50 Via Sardegna
Last edited by kenperes (2006-08-09 09:30:46)
#11 2006-08-09 09:38:46
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#12 2006-08-09 10:14:33
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I really don't know. I have never used them myself. I imagine they will be cheaper than SR, but not by much.
#13 2006-08-09 10:26:25
- Cruz Diez
- Member
- Posts: 1950
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Given the famous Caraceni name, I would estimate at least 3000 euro.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-08-09 10:27:45)
#16 2006-08-09 11:27:58
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I have always had good luck both ways, but when I go with a smaller shop I spend a lot of my time worrying about what might happen if something goes wrong for the shop or with my order. This lessens the enjoyment of the overall experience for me. In other words, it is my problem not the shops.
I have had good luck with small shops and good luck with both Caraceni (Milano) and Rubinacci (Napoli). I think their quality is as good as any small shop that I have used. On the other hand, you don't get the same experience and there is more of a standard style. I would not go as large as one of the big SR shops as they seem closer to Brioni than they do to somebody like Celentano (also great in Rome).
#17 2006-08-09 15:00:19
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#18 2006-08-09 18:11:19
- Incroyable
- Member
- Posts: 2310
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
I don't know about Caraceni now, but they were the tailors of Gianni Agnelli as well as Yves Saint Lauren who always had beautiful double-breasted suits in the '70s.
Jukebox Babe
#20 2006-08-10 05:09:12
- manicturncoat
- Member
- From: Paris, France
- Posts: 45
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
#21 2006-08-10 08:12:37
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#23 2006-08-10 10:56:27
- byoloye
- Member
- Posts: 63
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
"I think when you get to luxury goods, it is really essential to never buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods." - Teplitz's Law as defined by tteplitzmd.
#24 2006-08-10 11:10:08
- kenperes
- Member
- Posts: 584
Re: Enquiry about the Roman suit silhouette - tailors and price-points
Last edited by kenperes (2006-08-10 11:29:48)