You are not logged in.

#1 2009-03-09 13:36:23

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

J. Press - R.I.P. -

 

#2 2009-03-10 01:22:43

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Yeah, the new brochure came through my door a couple of weeks ago.  Nothing much to get excited about.  In fact, it looks pretty phoney.  Ken Lovegrove was very sniffy about their stuff last time I was in the shop.

 

#3 2009-03-10 01:46:23

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

It's the presentation, the photography, the styling, & the quality of the goods I'm told.

 

#4 2009-03-10 05:09:09

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

That seems to cover about everything.

 

#5 2009-03-10 05:26:58

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Let's face it, Press hasn't been what it used to be since about 1977.

Still the odd nice item in the catalogue (this summer's red and blue chambray sacks look pretty good to my eye if they've sorted out the shoulders of their cotton jackets; I will buy the blue in an attempt to look like Cassavetes in the opening scenes of Rosemary's Baby), but the overall feel of the brand seems ever more 'updated preppie' than 'classic ivy'.

Last edited by Natural Sole Brother (2009-03-10 05:30:27)

 

#6 2009-03-10 06:22:18

bandofoutsiders
Member
Posts: 432

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Funny, when I walked by the Cambridge Press the other day, I noticed that things were starting to look more like my aesthetic.  Lapels were narrower, button stances higher.  I was never sure about their construction but their lowest level of suit is about 80 bucks above J. Crew's price point for suits so how good could they be?  I've never liked the way things were presented on the J.Press website though.  I've heard the shoulders are better now than they used to be.

 

#7 2009-03-10 06:36:43

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

 

#8 2009-03-10 06:49:43

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Is it true the Japanese now have it?  I hate to have to say this - if it's true - but the Japanese take on Ivy seems way OTT.  I mean, those guys can really lay it on with a trowel!  Some of the stuff Press have been selling could surely only have been worn by total oddballs - a bit like, say, the polyester golfing slacks Haggar used to do in the bad old days when Gerald Ford was in the White House.  I don't like this phase of globalisation, I have to say.  OK, I know the process began way back - and I have a superb shadow half-sleeve, Japanese tailored, from the 50s - perfect Ivy/rockabilly crossover for a warm day - but now...

 

#9 2009-03-10 06:55:23

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Chum,

Felt like a bit of leg pulling today, eh?

Cheerio.

 

#10 2009-03-10 06:59:01

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Specifically?

 

#11 2009-03-10 07:12:53

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Press in Japan are far more interesting than Press in the US in my opinion.

I'll still cherry pick from Press I'm sure, but the brand is debased just now.

Hiya, Trippers Ol' Chum - Do Press still do it for you? I've been pro-Press for ages myself and have even defended the changes of late out of that old loyalty, but like with Brooks they're just a shop. When the stuff fails to please then I look elsewhere.

BoO mentions J. Crew (not that that's where I'm heading) & I can see quite a lot of J. Crew in J. Press just now. Maybe not Gap as the original post stated, but then that wasn't a quote from me. If I had the knowledge & high standards of the chap concerned then I'd maybe agree.

This style of ours has always been in a constant state of change, reviving old influences & introducing new ones. I'm just saying that Press isn't doing it for me anymore. Hopefully that situation will change just like I hope it will with Brooks. In the meantime my focus is now elsewhere.

Best  -

 

#12 2009-03-10 07:19:17

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Crew is just plain nasty.  Anyone who's only experience of Brooks is in Regent Street must have been well puzzled by the hype.  Crew is more Banana Republic than Gap.  Rather have Modern Amusement.

 

#13 2009-03-10 07:28:51

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Chum,

Sorry ol boy,, I thought this was a bit of benevolent trolling.  What a Southern trad might call a tar baby.  You had been a supporter of ol Mr. Man and the recent catalogues of late.  Just surprised of the change of heart,, thats all.

So,, what is it that is ruing ol J. Press?  Is it the colour and modernization?  Just wondering.

Cheerio.

 

#14 2009-03-10 08:11:23

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

I still like a fair bit of it, but I prefer a more muted look overall.  I bought a terrific lambswool scarf from them a few years back, and have some nice jackets.  There were a few items I thought a bit trad, but shaggy dogs and the basic stuff I guess will always be acceptable.  But I'm dubious about Ivy and facial hair and that young Beckham type last summer had me reeling...  Still on a par with Paul Stuart for me...  Trouble is, the more familiar I think I become with the new stuff the more I feel I have to explore the history, hence my fifty-plus year old sportcoat from Press... 
I've never recovered from the shock of Brooks going wavy.  Brooks for me, from the age of 18, represented everything I thought was grand about American dressing:  Monty Clift wore Brooks so I wanted to.  Actually, I'm wearing a Brooks shirt right now - not American made - and can't bring myself to throw it to a charity shop where it'll be unappreciated...

 

#15 2009-03-10 08:37:11

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Perchance I owe a bit more explanation of my surprise.  Yes,, tchauncey has been a critic of the staging of Mr. Man to appeal the ol Press to skateboarders.  Agreed on those points in toto.  And yet, whilst I do not purchase much,, it is the only place that I know where I can purchase a ready made sack in navy, grey, pinstripe, ect.  Other than ordering from Southwick or hoping that Brooks offers a rare natural shoulder offering,, Press is the only show in towne.  Perchance like ol Longwing's Brooks,, there is our Press (Ivy) and everyone elses Press (goldfish pants).  Perchance I am missing something by not perusing the catalogue.


Edit - my original comments and questions were to Uncle Russell in re his original post.  I was not questioning chetmiles opinions stated.  My apology to chetmiles.  His input is good indeed.  Drinking and posting do not mix I am afraid.

Last edited by tripchauncey (2009-03-10 09:16:01)

 

#16 2009-03-10 09:34:48

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

We won't hold it against you, ole buddy...

 

#17 2009-03-10 09:49:38

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

 

#18 2009-03-10 09:56:52

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Compromise?  Cost-cutting?  Carelessness?  You'll have stuck your head around the door at Brooks Brothers in Regent Street, Jim - do the staff know what they're talking about?  Less so than in our local McDonalds.  Sad thing, too: you e-mail someone on Ebay to ask is the shirt/whatever American made and they ask why's it important?  Why?  Because it bloody well is, that's why.  American workers have to make a living, too, don't they?  And don't get me onto Haggar and their Chinese tat...  Rule out Press, Crew, Brooks and keep a careful eye on Paul Stuart, and meanwhile keep trawling for old Troy Guild, Lion of Troy, Sero, Neil Martin etc.  Baggies are made in Italy now, are'nt they?

 

#19 2009-03-10 10:13:37

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Aye.

I went to the little Brooks out in the City just after it opened... Gloom.

Then Regent Street...

... And I remembered the buzz when M&S bought Brooks and there were rumours of a Brooks opening in London... And Mr. Simons saying that if Brooks did open in London then it wouldn't affect them. How right he was!

And if Press opened in London today I can't see it being the big deal it would have been even as recently as '04.

Things move on.

 

#20 2009-03-10 10:19:41

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Trip, check out the horror on page 18, Spring/Summer 2007 - the jobbie in the centre...

 

#21 2009-03-10 11:22:29

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

 

#22 2009-03-10 11:45:40

Tucker
Member
From: Atlanta
Posts: 78

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

 

#23 2009-03-10 12:27:16

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Chums,

Tho perchance endangering my Ivy membership card,, me thinks that the Reyn Spooner had some true Ivy roots,, or was a bit of a play on The Look.  Reyn Spooner had a bit of a run in the 60s,, along with madras and other tropical wear.  I reckoned that jacket as a play on that and the madras and tartan and chambray Ivy offerings of the 60s.  Would I wear it?  No.


In 1966 the Hawaii Fashion Guild, of which Reyn was an active member, convinced local businesses to allow aloha wear to be worn to work on what we now know as Aloha Friday. By this time, Reyn had designed a pullover, Ivy-League all cotton aloha shirt with a button-down collar that proved to be very popular. But he still wasn't satisfied with the intensity and brightness of the tropical and calico print fabrics he was using. He liked the shirts the surfers wore — the prints had become bleached out and subdued by the sun — and after experimenting with several ways to achieve the same "chambray" effect, realized that he would simply turn the floral and calico prints inside out! Cowabunga! The "reverse print" concept, now synonymous with the Reyn Spooner® name, made history.

http://www.alohashirtshop.com/index.php?p=custom&section=Reyn_Spooner_Info

 

#24 2009-03-10 12:35:29

AQG
Member
From: The Sticks
Posts: 1306

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Reyn Spooners are the only Aloha shirts I buy.  First rate stuff.  And yes, I would wear that jacket without compunction.

 

#25 2009-03-10 12:36:23

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: J. Press - R.I.P. -

Perchance I doth protested too much.  Ok,, now they are truley done.


http://www.metaboston.com/2009/01/j-press-to-sell-at-urban-outfitters-.html

 

Board footer

Powered by PunBB
© Copyright 2002–2008 Rickard Andersson