My pleasure, Jim.

I rarely post these days --anywhere-- but I am always reading and enjoying gratefully.

We are all in your debt for keeping this discussion going.

Best always,

Drew

RS properly calls it "cherry picking". In the US, seeking the true Ivy is totally cherry picking, in my view. One of the advantages of a forum, such as this. You learn from kindred spirits.

Whether it is BB, JP, or others, it is almost impossible to find one source, with the exception of a small niche retailer, such as OCLS, that is almost pure Ivy, here in the US. Simons in the UK, appears to be such a source.

Having said this, disappointments continually arise from those that knew BB, JP, etc, when they were almost 100% Ivy.

Had the Japanese not bought JP, they would surely be gone by now. We can be grateful that it is still possible to get a decent blazer , etc. by looking carefully, and ignoring the things that seem over the top. (Such as polyester trousers with a cell phone pocket on the leg, etc.)

It also seems fairly clear that the Japanese do Ivy much better that we do in the US, based on photos seen here.

The philosophy of the JP owners has been described by insiders, as being completely separated form Japan, management in the decision making process. The management in US has a tough job, trying to keep Ivy, and yet appeal to enough of the other market to stay viable. In the process, they have disappointed many pure Ivy fans in the US. Retailing is a brutal business, today.

The Japanese found that their market had tremendous admiration for US Ivy, and thus the JP name in US is of great value to them from an image point of view. Most of their customers seem to be drawn to the appeal of doing business with a merchant that advertises that they have branches in New Haven, etc.

Someone pointed out that advertisements of JP in Japan indicated a store in Princeton. Gone for decades, but owners bought the name , and get what they can out of it.

If almost anyone on the board made the merchandise decisions at JP, the place would be an outstanding Ivy museum, but we probably wouldn't be able to sell enough to pay the light bill. Tough job. I'm not optimistic, but wish them well, for selfish reasons.

In the interests of balance I think it's worth pointing out that Press stocks many more sack coats and made in USA buutton-down shirts than J. Simons. While Mr. Simons has been and remains the (in italics) touchstone for Ivy Style in the UK it's misleading to characterise the shop as a pure Ivy Valhalla these days. Aside from a G9 without external logo I don't think I've bought anything there in some years. A shame.

Problems with Press seem to stem from the tone and approach of their marketing and printed materials. If a brand speaks with a voice then Press has been Huey Lewis & The News rather than say, Freddie Hubbard for a long time.

Is there a future for a brand like Press without external capital? There could be: The Andover Shop, CCC, Eddie Jacobs and O'Connells et al will potter along offering elements of traditional American styles for some time to come, I think. But they are haberdashers. Press is, as has been pointed out, something else. It must kick upstairs to The Man as it were.

Just a thought.  Have the English expected too much of Press, Brooks, Paul Stuart, Andover and others?  We are perhaps a little too self-satisfied in our purity, forgetting that these managements have shareholders to satisfy.  That's the real world out there: chill winds blowing perhaps.  One of these days I'm going to hitch a ride to New York City in the company of Jim, Paddy, Chris and a few others and we're going to go suit hunting.  The one who finds the best - bespoke or ready-to-wear - buys the first round of drinks at a bar of their choice.