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#1 2006-03-25 06:57:25

Super 150s
Member
Posts: 84

One button Jackets

Is there someone who can tell me about one button jacket closures? Does it affect the front cut of the jacket or is it just button placement? Is this acceptable for standard business wear?

 

#2 2006-03-25 16:43:47

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

The single-button front is the signature design of one of the most venerable bespoke tailoring firms on Savile Row---H. Huntsman---which should offer some level of  assurance of its good taste, at least in the UK, although I suspect it's such a subtle aspect of a coat that it would not raise many eyebrows elsewhere in the world.  Given that the lower button of a 2-button front is never fastened, the case can be made for its superfluousness and for the simplicity of the single-button closure.  Just my 2 quid. 

Marc


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#3 2006-03-25 17:45:13

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: One button Jackets

The only negative I've ever heard was written by the departed Duke of Windsor. I paraphrase "I don't wear them nor do any of my friends."

Huntsman survived that remark quite comfortably.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#4 2006-03-25 17:53:19

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: One button Jackets

Just because the Duke of Windsor didn't prefer them shouldn't mean anything about their aesthetic validity.

However, I like the one button jacket, especially with peak lapels; rather tasteful and somewhat unique in today's world at least.

The one button has slightly different quarters I've noticed with which it's slightly more dramatic.


Jukebox Babe

 

#5 2006-03-25 17:54:18

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: One button Jackets

 

#6 2006-03-25 20:29:46

Will
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 239

Re: One button Jackets

The quote is from Windsor Revisisted but I'd have to re-read it to provide a page reference. No thank you.


Will's thoughts on classic men's clothing
http://www.asuitablewardrobe.net/

 

#7 2006-03-25 20:48:11

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: One button Jackets

I like the one button single breasted jacket myself. We are moving towards a minimalist era.

 

#8 2006-03-26 09:59:06

maximus
Member
Posts: 265

Re: One button Jackets

Anyone have photo os these jackets to post?


I shall commission a suit:

So let it Bespoken
So let it be done!

 

#9 2006-03-26 10:36:45

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#10 2006-03-26 10:39:57

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#11 2006-03-26 10:42:08

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#12 2006-03-26 17:53:26

BraceBack Mountain
Member
Posts: 105

Re: One button Jackets

Those are very well done. Who made those, and are they yours?

 

#13 2006-03-26 18:10:58

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

Those jackets are all made by Huntsman, on London's Savile Row.  They're not mine.  If I'm not mistaken, Huntsman is reputedly the most expensive "bespoke" tailor on Savile Row, although given the weak dollar, London tailors' prices are "uniformly" stratospheric.

Marc


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#14 2006-03-26 18:13:22

BraceBack Mountain
Member
Posts: 105

Re: One button Jackets

 

#15 2006-03-26 18:22:07

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

Yes, slash, slanted, angled pockets.  Basically just a stylistic thing or maybe even an affectation since they're not functional for the most part.  Slanted pockets are derived from equestrian wear, enabling riders to access their pockets more easily while on horseback.

Marc


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#16 2006-03-26 18:28:10

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: One button Jackets

Huntsman raised their pricing even after they had their financial troubles a while back.

$5000 for a two piece, I believe.


Jukebox Babe

 

#17 2006-03-26 18:45:46

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

I think the current price of entry at Huntsman is closer to $6,000 for a 2 pc suit.  Thomas Mahon, who doesn't have the Huntsman cache, is getting nearly $4,000 for a suit! 

Marc


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#18 2006-03-26 18:46:02

BraceBack Mountain
Member
Posts: 105

Re: One button Jackets

 

#19 2006-03-26 23:18:35

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: One button Jackets

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-03-26 23:30:49)

 

#20 2006-03-27 12:11:04

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

John Lester, a refugee from Huntsman who has been on his own for some years now, makes the rounds including trips to New York, often accompanied by the Jermyn St. shirtmakers Harvie & Hudson.  Presumably, he offers the Huntsman cut and at a lower price.  He is kind of foppish and so if nothing else, you'd find him entertaining.  H&H made a few shirts for me several years ago, however I found their collars really hard (like they were lined with cardboard).

Marc


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#21 2006-03-27 15:50:43

jeff
Member
Posts: 50

Re: One button Jackets

Thanks, Marc.  Is there anything else you can tell us about Lester and his work?

 

#22 2006-03-27 17:41:05

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: One button Jackets

Jeff, I only met Lester once several years ago when I purchased shirts from Harvie & Hudson, so I can't offer any insights on him.  Not sure of his whereabouts but I think the London guys are descending on America or have done so recently. Huntsman has gone through so many changes of late that Lester might be a better option for a "Huntsman cut suit" than Huntsman themselves.   I do have personal experience with former Huntsman cutter Richard Anderson, whom I hold in low regard.

Marc

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2006-03-27 17:45:34)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#23 2006-03-27 22:14:43

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: One button Jackets

Much prefer a two or three button suit/jacket. l've never looked good in a single button daytime jacket.

 

#24 2006-04-05 06:24:46

BraceBack Mountain
Member
Posts: 105

Re: One button Jackets

Out of curiosity do sinlge button jackets have the button placed in a different spot that the waist button on a two or even a three button jacket?

I see the current issue of GQ is recommending the one button peak. It mentions waist button placement but not enough to clear it up.

 

#25 2006-04-05 07:51:29

Panzeraxe
Member
Posts: 146

Re: One button Jackets

I believe Mahon is $3K for a suit right now, which is pretty reasonable. He has, however, indicated that he intends to jack up prices fairly soon.

Marc - have you used Mahon? An opinion to share?

Panzer

 

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