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#1 2006-06-02 22:57:47

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

The shawl has more of a slouchy, clubby, old boy feel to it probably bc of its association with tartan (or bright solid, challis wool, silk or silk velvet) smoking jackets.

IMO, the shawl needs to be cut just right, not too narrow, not too wide. That diced satin lapel that Darren made and showed once upon a time was absolute "old boy" heaven. Wish he'd repost it.

The peak is more public, large dinners after the hunt, the theatre etc.. more properly black.

Either lapel style in black or midnight blue looks great with a self vest. If the dark fabric is light enough in weight, just throw your cream summer dj over both the pants and vest, if not then get either midnight blue trousers with black facings or black pants with black facings (silk trim) and have a vest made to match or wear a cummerbund that matches the pants trimming. It gets complicated. Remember you can wear black silk facings on midnight blue and midnight blue silk facings on on midnight blue but not midnight blue silk on black.

In Italy many men eschew completely unfaced dinner jackets in either black or midnight blue. Elegant men being very hip.

Take your bottle green silk velvet material. Should it be peak or shawl lapelled? (A: either) Should it be self faced? (A: Either silk faced or self faced)If self faced, what sort of buttons? (silk to match the trouser trim), one button on waist, piped pockets. Now, pants and vest should be either midnight blue or black with black silk trim. The idea is that you just threw an odd jacket over your standard dinner clothes. Bow tie to match the silk facings. If not vest, then cummerbund should really match silk facings keeping in step with the never more than one wild item for black tie. Shirt, white or blue high thread count cotton pleated front turn down collar french cuff shirt with studs of your choice. Shoes should be those opera pumps in calf with black or midnight blue silk hose, though the patent oxfords will also do.

No idea who carries one rtw. Saks 5th avenue and or bergdorf have to have a couple between them. Press always carried a proper one, maybe steedappeal can find one if youre in NYC, go see him.

Ive heard that heavier men cant wear a well made shawl lapel dinner jacket. With this body type looks fine as long as the jacket is fitted properly. If its not fitted properly it makes a heavy person look worse but otherwise, I think it looks elegant. Its a bit of an urban myth. And whats wrong with accentuating your weight anyway? I always though it was about looking elegant? S. Greenstreet always looked good in white linen or flannel...

 

#2 2006-06-02 23:01:55

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

FNB-

I just commissioned a midnight blue tuxedo.  I know that you have one as well and was wondering whether you use a black bowtie or one that matches the midnight grosgrain on the lapel.

Thanks in advance.

 

#3 2006-06-02 23:12:16

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

I am glad you asked me that.


Actually I have a couple blue DJs, one with black facings one with blue.

I had a bow tie and a cummerbund made up in the same midnight blue silk fabric. You really cannot wear a black bowtie with the midnight blue facings, looks really bad. You may not want a cummerbund, but get at least one and maybe two bowties made. Also, I shouldve gotten a vest made of the silk facing material. if you dont go that route and get a 3 piece dinner jacket, then make sure the lapels of the vest are in the matching silk.

I dont know whos making the DJ for you but  please make sure or have the silk people receive a swatch of the wool in order to match the facings from the proper fabric lot. My midnight blue silk matches the wool of the jacket perfectly. Yours should also match perfectly.

One other item. To be honest, i prefer black facings on midnight blue DJs, after all if the facings in midnight blue match perfectly, and they must, who's going to know its blue? Contrary to popular misconception, you want people to know your DJ is blue. All that straining to prove midnight blue looks black is the purview of the compulsive neurotic. However, if you like the all blue its fine. it will look blue and that should be a source of well dressed enjoyment not worry that someone wont think its black.

 

#4 2006-06-03 01:05:22

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

A bottle green velvet jacket would also look nice with black grosgain peak or shawl lapels.

As for the vest, a white pique can be perfectly acceptable. On another note, brown dinner jackets are rather lovely as well.

Last edited by Incroyable (2006-06-03 01:06:11)


Jukebox Babe

 

#5 2006-06-03 01:20:42

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

A couple of guys in my family have midnight blue tuxes (er...dinner jackets), but I don't.  Though I've got an older Brooks 1 buttton peak model (though I dig the shawl), that would make Harris's world spin.  It was probably made before he was in college and it has.....forward pleated trousers, and, if I recall correctly, darts.

Since this thread is up I wanted to get all y'all's opinion on two things:  first, do you agree that the cumberbund is superfluous?  I usually don't wear one.  Just keep the jacket closed.  Though I'd love to get one of Budd's proper wrap-around cumberbunds.   The old school owner of the Andover Shop used to say that there was no need for the cumberbund, and I still agree.  If I'm going to wear something in its stead, I'd go with a formal black waistcoat.  Second, what do you think about calf v. patent leather pumps for black-tie.  I remember there was much debate previously about this.  I reckon that box calf preceded patent leather, but I still rather fancy the patents.  What say ye?

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-03 01:21:29)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2006-06-03 12:56:33

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#7 2006-06-04 20:59:53

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#8 2006-06-04 21:03:34

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

I like the scarf lining. There was also a Japanese gentleman who had his suits lined in Hermes scarves.


Jukebox Babe

 

#9 2006-06-04 21:33:13

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Hermes scarves are also very nice. I have several sets of scarves tucked away for various jacket projects. I do want to mention that the jacket material should be very soft so as not to fight the scarves. A flannel with cashmere or worsted cashmere is ideal. The barathea is an exception because, although soft but quite soft enough, it is worn infrequently and the fighting is not a concern.

 

#10 2006-06-04 23:54:23

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Last edited by The_Shooman (2006-06-04 23:58:49)

 

#11 2006-06-05 00:04:33

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Last edited by The_Shooman (2006-06-05 00:14:03)

 

#12 2006-06-05 00:23:53

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Last edited by The_Shooman (2006-06-05 01:00:09)

 

#13 2006-06-05 17:32:23

maximus
Member
Posts: 265

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Incredible tuxedo, just stunning.


I shall commission a suit:

So let it Bespoken
So let it be done!

 

#14 2006-06-23 03:43:24

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#15 2006-06-30 02:43:15

Prophete-faux
New member
Posts: 3

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#16 2006-06-30 21:09:13

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#17 2006-07-01 09:00:50

arenn
Member
Posts: 26

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

FNB, do you wear a black tie with the blue dj with black facings?

 

#18 2006-07-02 10:21:40

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#19 2006-07-04 01:27:26

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#20 2006-07-05 14:29:14

Tyto
Member
Posts: 103

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#21 2006-07-05 14:34:44

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Last edited by Coolidge (2006-07-05 14:35:38)

 

#22 2006-07-07 04:54:58

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2006-08-13 10:02:43

Abuggabu
Member
Posts: 26

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

 

#24 2006-08-15 08:12:53

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

Yes, well all that stuff about midnight blue looks blacke rthan black is for the tourists. Dont get caught up in the OCD wave, the suit is supposed to look blue, thats what tells everyone else it's unique. Also, the blak on the blue is theoretically "wrong" for clothes, well at least in the woman's wardrobe and this creates a handsome combination which is steadfastly "male".

 

#25 2006-08-17 05:25:39

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shawl and peak lapel dinner jacket

I've never really noticed that midnight blue looks "blacker than black" in artifical light.  Who was the first to assert such in print?  (and from whom everone forever after has parroted?)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

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