It seems there are quite a few here who finding the majority of clothes overly baggy. Some might call it loose or relaxed, others would suggest shapeless as a better description. It’s one thing to be able to try on a shirt or jacket and reject it, quite another to mail order it from overseas and discover that what looked slender on a website is voluminous in person. In the hope that we can minimise such incidents, I suggest that those of us who look for a slimmer silhouette start a list of recommended items which are slim-fitting but not figure-hugging. These are clothes for men, not boys, but men who dress not unlike Charlie Watts in 1964 or Culp and Cosby in I-Spy.
Let's begin with some obvious ones.
Brooks Brothers slim-fit
Their regular shirts are more like circus tents, these are spot-on. Shoot me down if you like, but I favour the non-iron.
Uniqlo regular cords
Slim but not tight, if anything the thigh is fractionally loose.
H&M 'Sliq' for a slimmer jean (caveat: rise may be too low for anyone above average height but it works for me).
Smedley knitwear is cut on the slim side of course, try a Guernsey for a more utilitarian knit.
Flat front chinos:
- On the bargain end we have the oft mentioned Uniqlo Vintage Chinos of previous seasons, let's hope they offer them again soon. These sit on the hips and have a great slender fit. Some might like to have them tapered (I know Jesmond does).
- On the high end I'd like to mention Incotex. This Italian brand does the most fantastic slim flat fronts, I just managed to score a second pair of their "Comfort Chinos" for cheap. I can't seem to find these pants online, but they deserve a mention if you're looking for some slim chinos in the lushest cotton twill.
Carhartt Traditional Fit jeans have a nice trim fit, esp. in the seat, and are high-waisted. Also, one of the best-made jeans around.
ralph lauren "custom fit" shirts.
some don't ilke ralph lauren 'cause of the logo...i like it.
Fred Perry Made in Portugal chinos. They sit on the hips and taper to 16" leg opening.
Fred Perry Made in Portugal or England and Aertex short sleeve BDs. 3 buttons collar, sewn-in full box pleat in the back, cuffed sleeves with notch detail. Slim fitting without being too tight. No darts also.
I know, too much FP, but there is this shop here that has past seasons on semi-permanent clearence, so...
Last edited by Mr. Eclectic (2009-03-18 11:17:14)
^ www.aeroleatherclothing.com is in the UK and a tad cheaper even.
/\ Have Levis slimmed the 1947 fit down for this season as there is a model on http://shop.eu.levi.com/GuysCollectionsLevisVintageClothing/475010117/-1947-5--- and it looks slimmer than the previous Levi 1947 from last year?
Also I tried a pair of the Levi 1966 505 on in Selfridges a few months ago only to find them baggy at the hip. The one now on http://shop.eu.levi.com/GuysCollectionsLevisVintageClothing/675050217/-1967-5--- looks like a skinny fit to me, so I'm assuming Levi are tweaking these....but I stand to be corrected. The 1947 model on some japanese sites looks a lot baggier (as you would have thought they would be back in 1947???)
Anyway moving on, H&M have a slimmer fit chino at the moment but I've only found it in larger stores, 14.99 so pretty good value (though don't know how long they will last!!) more of a smarter chino (I'll take a look tonight to see if it has a style name. As Moose said H&M Sliq jeans are slim, but not skinny, and most importantly haven't got a naff "wash" on them!
Hiltl have a nice slim fit casual chino, though can't find it online? A German make I believe!. Really well made It rides up after a wear or too and looks very "60's" Beware they make a lot of old mens trousers, not sure how or when the style I got slipped out? Sierra Trading Post stock Hiltl, but not this style. If anyone finds them, let me know as I want more pairs!
Tommy Hilfiger "Custom Fit" shirts in 80's two Ply are a nice fit (not belly huggin slim, but a closer fit) good quality and sometimes turn up in TK Maxx or the factory outlet in Bicester. Some nice stripes in the range, but collar isn't as long as BB shirts so not as much roll. Logo on chest but only small so i don't think it looks crass or takes away from the shirt.
Buzz Rickson sweatshirt......expensive I know, but well made and what a great silhouette, slim fit compared to todays baggy styles. You need to go up a size in them though.
Reiss believe it or not have had some nice needle cords in, which are a nice slim fit with a narrow leg.
Last edited by Prof Kelp (2009-03-18 11:44:34)
for shirts, I really like the buttondowns that Jump the Gun are making
Fit is definitely slim, but better proportioned than similar from FP and BS. same details (3rd neck, back pleat, sleeve cuff button etc). Their collars are much better than FP/BS as well, with a pretty decent roll. Price is cheap enough at 40GBP
I have about 10 shirts from them and make great daily wear.
http://www.jumpthegun.co.uk/shop/Product/Index/24
+1 on Aertex, they also fit nicely and make a good alternative to FP/BS
Last edited by Get Smart (2009-03-18 11:55:49)
^ Been looking for a nice gingham, just might try those, cheers.
Glad that sweatshirt adventure turned out right Pro'. The Japanese ones are something else.
Last edited by 1966 (2009-03-18 12:11:37)
/\ Thanks 66, they are something else!
Get Smart have you had any of those Sta-pres from Jump The Gun, if so what do you think of them???
I have two pieces of clothing that some may sneer at because of their source but to me they are my best fitting garments, and they are both extremely good quality for the price and considering the slip of both brands.
1. LE Hyde Park Oxford: Tailored Fit- The only "slim fit" oxford I have ever worn that had enough room in the shoulder. This may or may not be a problem for some but guys with big shoulders and small waist they can't be beat. Beefy Fabric is amazing for the price.
2. LL Bean Year Round Wool Pants: Classic Fit: These trousers for some reason just look a lot sharper than my wool gabs from Brooks and Press. Not positive why though I suspect its the fit. Enough room in the thigh without being baggy at all.
Robert
^ You'll find quite a few Land's End and LL Bean fans over here, no worries Robert.
Last edited by 1966 (2009-03-18 13:28:45)
Just recently I've bought a definitely high end but probably also the best pair of slimfitting chinos I've ever owned in an extremely lightweight thus comfy material, by John Varvatos
Last edited by Alex Roest (2009-03-18 16:31:19)
I am currently developing a bad case of "smurfitis".
I just washed some new 1955 Levi's vintage numbers to get rid of the rawness, and now I'm wearing them wet. I'm sitting on an old dark towel, in an old navy shirt, my hands all blue from the indigo loss. My legs are probably all blue as well by now.
The 1955s are not as slim as the 1947s so here's what I did.
Took someone's advice and ordered some downsized 1955s in a waist 32 (instead of the 34 on my 1947s). I'm pretty pleased, both pairs are a very similar fit now. There is some difference in the layout of the back pockets but that's about it.
Last edited by 1966 (2009-03-19 04:50:16)
Just picked up those JV trousers as they had to be altered, they're more like cotton slacks than chinos really but I'm no less chuffed anyway.....