You are not logged in.
#1 2009-03-20 11:49:33
- Decline & Fall
- Ivyist At Large
- Posts: 850
Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-03-20 11:51:26)
"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler
#2 2009-03-20 12:03:00
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
^ A very nice find, D&F. Thanks -
#3 2009-03-22 02:28:05
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6436
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Hip-hip ol' chum. Some good digging.
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#5 2009-03-22 02:34:09
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6436
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
What some of these articles show, I think, is that contrary to what the all these, uh, "professional" clothing historians show, there's a built-in critique of style or "movement" during its ascendancy that isn't given any credit. The style itself is its own critique. Moving through its own dialectic. Or I'm just full of shit.
Last edited by Horace (2009-03-22 02:34:55)
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#6 2009-03-22 02:38:21
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Yeah - I think the style 'talked to itself' all the way through.
But that puts the 'experts' out of a job...
#7 2009-03-22 04:08:08
- 1966
- 1,966% Ivy
- Posts: 2382
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Yep I too like to think of the style as a discourse, one that's still running as this forum proves.
#8 2009-03-22 08:47:40
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9345
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
I think Americans still react positively to a worsted grey flannel (one with the slightest of naps) or a worsted with a slightly fuzzy or "milled" finish.
FLannel is probably easier to screw up at the cleaners, they are also warmer which most men don't want for business. Unlike some of the more vocal elements on the forums, most men in the Tri-State area actually choose the lightest weights or smoothest finishes for custom clothes. We are talking tropical worsteds and 120s-180s fabrics.
#9 2009-03-22 12:50:22
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Most of my Kosher Ivy suits are indeed rather lightweight compared to English suitings.
Must be the weather.
... Which makes absolute sense.
#10 2009-03-23 13:45:16
- Film Noir Buff
- Dandy Nightmare
- From: Devil's Island
- Posts: 9345
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
Flannel pants are amazing.
I have a couple of 10oz Scabal worsted flannel suits and an 11oz H. Lesser worsted flannel suit and they are so warm that I am uncomfortable in them. Both of them seem to have a fair number of flannel vs. worsted fibers. It's not that they are always hot but if you start the day off and it's 40 degrees and it shoots up to 65 while you're trotting around, it can moisten your shirt.
Worsted flannel is all about the amount of fine spun, worsted fibers vs. the more cotton-y woolen fibers. The more worsted fibers, the cooler the fabric is against the body. At some point the worsted takes over but for the slightest of naps which is what the English call "Milled finish"
And something like the flannel carried by Harrisons of Edinburgh is very nice because it is a super 90s, it has a low nap but enough surface interest to look more like a flannel than a worsted, and yet it has enough worsted fibers in it not to be too insular. It is a good modern version of the flannel. It also makes great pants.
The traditional flannel is too thick and heavy, too hot, too delicate, too saggy, too crease resistant. Really, the only people that seem compelled towards it are purists and if they want to continually suffer for tradition, they can shoulder the rest of our flannel shedding sins as well.
Interesting to note that whenever American advertising wants to show a "retro" world they often choose a grey flannel suit and a fedora. I dont know whether this means it is considered costume but it is something to consider.
#11 2009-03-24 01:51:48
- Taylor McIntyre
- Son of Ivy...
- Posts: 342
Re: Death of the Gray Flannel Suit
The flannel of my Anglo Trad youth was always rather like blotting paper - Spongey and saggy. The knees would bag in a heartbeat. Sloppy, heavy stuff.
That Harrisons stuff sounds much better.