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#1 2009-03-24 17:38:38

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

in case you missed it -- khaki advice

JP's most recent post is a spirited rewrite of a rather uninspired Details article on khakis. JP has a lot of interesting ideas in his article and I thought it would be a good starting point for a discussion. Where do you agree? Disagree?

http://theselvedgeyard.wordpress.com/2009/03/24/the-details-on-khakis/


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#2 2009-03-24 20:26:56

The Selvedge Yard
Member
From: NJ
Posts: 16

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

The big sticking point was whether "khaki" is a legitimate name for anything other than the color.  Some feel that you only call it (the pant) a chino.  I stand by my statement that they are both legitimate, but different animals.  Thoughts on that?

 

#3 2009-03-24 21:34:34

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Caught the J.Crew reference.  Took a chance and ordered a pr and back they went.  The cut was off and, anyway, couldn't justify the high price.  LL Bean chinos still rule.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#4 2009-03-25 01:42:59

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

 

#5 2009-03-25 03:53:53

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

 

#6 2009-03-25 03:56:43

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

And post Korea is 'Boom Years', not WWII!

 

#7 2009-03-25 04:03:06

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

^ Yep.

I think the K-1s on the other hand are a '40s inspired cut, hence the elephantine bottoms.

 

#8 2009-03-25 04:12:27

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Then I have my 21st century "hipster" Uniqlos and that's it. I'm all over the place with my 3 pairs of khakis.

This is why I'm hesitant to step up in discussions on purism and whether or not there are rules.

*Edit* - I mean I'd rather give examples of my practice than get involved in theory. "Don't tell me, show me" and all that.

Last edited by 1966 (2009-03-25 04:28:35)

 

#9 2009-03-25 04:42:52

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

I hear you.
Personal taste is the only rule I think - With Khakis I can find you a historical precedent for almost any cut you fancy pretty much when it comes to the Ivy style.

And our forebears in Ivy followed their own taste too. Some went for the newer, fashionable, slimmed-down cuts, some stayed with the older baggier style.
During the 'Boom Years' the slimmer cut was the most fashionable, but different cuts have always been out there from different makers. The 40's & the 50's Ivy styles were very different in their detailing.
Baggy was back in fashion with 80's 'Preppie' which is now revived today on the Interweb as AAAT 'Trad'.

Pick your era & pick your 'purist' version!

 

#10 2009-03-25 04:43:53

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 946

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

my Baracuta buckle back chinos bought in their sale came with that tailor's jean style hem. I'd already kicked myself for not buying extra long and then doing a 3 inch folded hem myself. In fact that one thing is what drove me to buy a sewing machine!

No this JP has (rightly) put his finger in the wound, I'll never feel the same again. Damn!


"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
theweejun.tumblr.com

 

#11 2009-03-25 04:47:31

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

 

#12 2009-03-25 07:00:18

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

I have about six pairs of khakis (2xBills, 2xBB and 2xBR), mainly in line with my buy two of things theory. I simply lucked out with one of the pairs of BR. They're slim-fit and super soft, but not thin. However, BR is such a useless brand that I know that was just a one-off purchase (the styles change too much season to season). While not disagreeing with the negative comments others have said, I love my Bills M2 dearly, largely b/c of their softness and heft. That said, they seem more of a winter khaki to me than a summer one, again due to their heft and their bagginess. They make more sense with a pair of Red Wings and a sweater than they do with loafers. The BBs are quite nice too. I'll likely stick with them.

As for rise, I have little patience for a low rise. In fact, that's what stopped me from getting the BB Milano fit, which otherwise sound like a great pant.

As for pant cuff, I'm really intrigued by the idea of getting mine tapered. A narrower cuff makes a lot of sense, particularly with shoes that aren't total shit kickers. Who cuffs and who doesn't? Not all of mine are cuffed, but I do like a big fat one (1 3/4").


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#13 2009-03-25 07:06:41

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

^ What is "BR"?

I have one clue but I'd be surprised if you called Buzz Rickson's a "useless brand".

 

#14 2009-03-25 07:23:49

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1669

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Last edited by Chris_H (2009-03-25 07:24:09)


https://www.facebook.com/groups/hardyandjohnson/

 

#15 2009-03-25 07:24:37

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Ah yes OK.

 

#16 2009-03-25 07:27:42

DB
Member
Posts: 216

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

 

#17 2009-03-25 08:35:22

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

1966, I wouldn't diss on the mighty Buzz like that. Chris H is right. BR's stuff is a real mix. I have a pair of slim fit BR jeans that I love. They might even be my favorite but their khakis REALLY vary season to season. However, unlike everything else we've mentioned, I can actually walk in to a store and buy their stuff. So much of what I get now I either buy through the post or on occasional US sojourns. I really feel like I'm missing out on this Uniqlo business.


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#18 2009-03-25 08:56:54

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 946

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Last edited by TheWeejun (2009-03-25 08:57:14)


"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
theweejun.tumblr.com

 

#19 2009-03-25 09:05:40

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

 

#20 2009-03-25 09:08:21

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

^ I ordered an off-white heathered one yesterday thanks to a friend in the UK. I hope it's like the old "oatmeal" ones.

 

#21 2009-03-25 09:08:56

Decline & Fall
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 850

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Forgot to say thanks for the advice DB. Will keep an eye out for the poplins.


"I like bars just after they open in the evening. When the air inside is still cool and clean and everything is shiny. The first quiet drink of the evening in a quiet bar-that's wonderful."
— Raymond Chandler

 

#22 2009-03-25 13:56:52

ScarletStreet
Member
Posts: 540

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

I have a few of the BB Clark fit numbers and they fit okay. The rise issue has also stopped me from trying the Milano. My go to pants are the LL Bean chinos both the teflon and non-teflon variety in the Classic Fit. Those pretty much see me through anything. I also have a pair of the "premium cotton" dickies which are 100% cotton as opposed to the work pants which are a blend. They are very relaxed fit, so I wear them when channeling 90s rap artists or clearing the brush on my estate (okay, rolling around in the yard with my five year old). They are very comfortable. As for cuffs, my personal rules depend on what shoes I'm wearing. I have some 1 3/4, some 1 1/2, and some uncuffed. I don't like wearing loafers, or any kind of true moc with huge cuffs, it looks terrible on me. Gunboats with small leg openings look equally hilarious on me.  I have yet to find poplins that fit me well, I hate baggy pants and have big thighs and the treated poplin of my preferred cut of LL Bean, seems to go against the idea of finding cooler long pants.

Robert


"All men are frauds. The only difference between them is that some admit it. I myself deny it." -- H.L. Mencken

 

#23 2009-03-25 13:59:11

TheWeejun
Member
Posts: 946

Re: in case you missed it -- khaki advice

Last edited by TheWeejun (2009-03-25 14:00:20)


"Mr. Weejun is a beast." 1966
www.theweejun.com
theweejun.tumblr.com

 

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