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#1 2009-04-02 09:30:11

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

The good Prof kind of invited this...

I shall start with a basic timeline (for me and my mates living in Essex) and try to fill in some detail a little later.

1968 - aged 15 - 17 and coming from a background influenced by Mod and most of us I guess lower middle class.  We were influenced perhaps by an elder brother or relative, perhaps the older guys at school. 

The basic look was a mohair suit, quite slim and bespoke if you could afford it or MTM at Burtons if not.  Solatio shoes, M&S knitwear (fantastic back then) or from Burlington Arcade if you were feeling rich. Hair was very short cut using a 'bat' with a cut-in parting for some. 

Entertainment was Chelmsford Corn Exchange on Saturday night, Basildon Locarno, some great pubs in and around Romford on a Friday and posing at the football (sometimes) West Ham or Arsenal.  Much beer was drunk - usually light and bitter.  Women were on the fringes and little interest in them really.  Too busy dressing!  Although there were a few we even regarded as friends (quite modern for those days?)

1969 - discovery of Ivy!

1970 - a new smoother look

1971 - the crew breaks up and all sorts of nonsense with women takes over.  A move to the 'French cut'.

As I say - details to follow.

But what about you guys?

Bridey

Last edited by Brideshead (2009-04-02 09:31:49)

 

#2 2009-04-02 09:46:13

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Brideshead, was it just a co-incidence that the 'French look' came around the time blokes were getting serious with girls?  I remember reading how skinheads moved from their bovver look to longer hair and fancier clobber because it was the prelude to getting engaged and so on.  The guys with the centre-partings and basketweaves tended to get the best looking birds at our school: the local comprehensive.  Only the really sexy, tarty types went for the guys wearing crombies and carrying rolled brollies.  Any thoughts on this?

 

#3 2009-04-02 10:19:29

Prof Kelp
Professor of Ivy
Posts: 1033

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Thanks for the info Bridey!

I always like to hear what was going on for others back in the early 70's.

I remember the local skinhead gang The "Star" skins from the early 70's, they all seemed to be inhabiting a different world to me. Though of course they were as they were a lot older. My older brother was a Suedehead who went into smooth. Looking at the drawings in the subsection of the Nick Knight book Skinhead, is like watching my older brothers transition. He was never a skin, but like most older kids at that point who were too young for the skin phase, he caught the arse end of suedehead and then went headfirst into smooth. Penny rounds with sta-prest then into Rupert checks, printed shirts, short tight shetlands (the French influence?) I guess you always have a romantic view of a look that you were to young to achieve but saw it around you on the older kids.


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#4 2009-04-02 17:21:48

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Brideshead is a similar vintage to me. 

I kept the basic look but further education involved associating with students -in other words hippy types with no idea about clothes. They wore loon pants, greatcoats etc. So, although I never went down that route, my standards started to slip.

By 1973 work beckoned. The mohair suit was back in service but additional suits were wide lapel jobs. I always had decent shoes though. I never wore a pair of stack heels. I did not know it was considered a French look. I never needed to go up town to get that sort of stuff. The Squire Shop/Ivy Shop were a thing of the past for me by then.

 

#5 2009-04-03 00:15:54

Suitedbooted2000
Member
Posts: 577

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 

#6 2009-04-03 05:20:10

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

I think Alex mentioned the piece I did for AAAC a year or two back.  Here is the link to that thread:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57062&highlight=skinhead

Cheers

 

#7 2009-04-03 05:27:29

Prof Kelp
Professor of Ivy
Posts: 1033

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Nobodies mentioned two tone cloth in this thread yet?

Was that something popular down your way Bridey or was it a later development in the early 70's

PK


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#8 2009-04-03 06:13:25

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 

#9 2009-04-03 06:16:12

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 

#10 2009-04-03 07:15:14

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Brideshead, out of curiosity did you and your friends also wear Doc Martens during 68/9ish or was it primarily proper shoes for you?

I remember finding that AAAC thread years ago when you started it and thinking you were too cool to be posting there, heh

 

#11 2009-04-03 07:30:58

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 

#12 2009-04-03 08:30:13

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Can you imagine lads nowadays popping in to have a chat with their tailor?  Paying for their suit week in week out until it was truly theirs?  We've lost something along the way.  Or am I just getting old and crotchety?

 

#13 2009-04-03 08:55:05

Brideshead
Member
Posts: 417

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 

#14 2009-04-03 09:02:38

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Can someone pick Nick Knight and Jim Ferguson up a bit?  Harringtons were first worn by suedeheads?  Were the guys he claimed to have seen a few years earlier simply a figment of Kevin Rowland's imagination?  Contradictions, forever contradictions!

 

#15 2009-04-03 09:06:11

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

And then there are those pics of Clapton in'63...

 

#16 2009-04-03 09:16:25

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

When still with The Yardbirds wearing the look of '69 in '63-ish:

http://www.arch.mcgill.ca/prof/adams/arch350/fall1999/students/pgorrie/clapton.gif

(Not the best pic - There are others)

 

#17 2009-04-03 10:58:17

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Quite so, Jim.

 

#18 2009-04-10 01:54:44

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Does anyone have any comments to make upon the likely influence of 'Budgie' and 'Bronco Bullfrog' just about this time?  I know they were a bit apart, but will anyone own up to wearing floral shirts and ties or white cloggies?

 

#19 2009-04-10 02:00:53

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Good point - That's another part of what happened next in London after Ivy being fashionable that we haven't really looked at yet.

Ivy motors away in London as an in-the-know style and then becomes suddenly fashionable only to be quickly changed for all this later stuff (unless you were a die-hard). How deos it all connect? Action & reaction? Or can you see some kind of progression?

 

#20 2009-04-10 02:06:25

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

I guess maybe it brings us back to the Simons/Kwintner split.  But I think it might also force a division between London - or some parts of London - and the rest of the country.  Skinhead met Roxy Music met Philly met 'Budgie' met Slade...  Guys with crops at our school went round with glitter on their cheeks and teddy boy socks. 
Best stick to the capital for coherence...

 

#21 2011-08-29 17:52:34

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

and then there's the French Look of the late 60s/ early 70s... lots of grown out crops and tight Shetlands... waisted jackets with bigger lapels, tousers sometimes a little lower rise and wider on the bottoms?


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#22 2012-01-10 16:37:04

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#23 2012-01-10 16:52:55

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

^ It's not a young Rory Gallagher, is it?


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#24 2012-01-10 17:04:46

Staceyboy
Ivy Archivist
Posts: 936

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

Ah, yes. I can see what you mean. Actually Mike Smith - keyboard/vocalist with the Dave Clark Five. No; I wouldn't have known either if I hadn't read the back of the record sleeve!

Staceyboy


http://thetownoutside.tumblr.com

 

#25 2012-01-10 17:11:08

Liam Mac
Ivy Avenger
From: Beyond!
Posts: 4789

Re: Ivy influenced to a French style c.1970 / 71

 
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