There have been discussions here about Ivy "Purism" and at one point on AAAT about "minimalism." The latter idea, if I recall correctly, was to cut down on variety in one's wardrobe and use only a few items to do lots of different things.
I have in mind an approach to wardrobe building distinct from both of these. It's somewhat like editing a piece of writing--cutting down a 1500 word piece to a 700 word piece in order to make it better by removing what doesn't fit or you don't like. Conciseness counts. Needless baggage is trimmed. Think Hemingway's clean prose.
The idea with a wardrobe would be to put together things you really like and really fit you, and chuck the rest, even the borderline stuff. Variety is no problem, nor is departure from Ivy style details. The criteria for what gets in are completely subjective. But high standards are kept--no pack-ratting allowed.
The reasons for doing this could be many--minimal space comes to mind immediately--but I like the idea just as a matter of principle. Rather than amassing tons of stuff, everything that I sort of like and that sort of fits or that I only rarely wear, I prefer to adopt the reverse approach: only stuff I really like makes it into my wardrobe; rigorous standards are observed. It's not at all about money--the best togs can be really cheap.
I've found that this approach saves a lot of money and waste. Truth is, I'm the sort of guy who reaches for his favorite items repeatedly, the ones that I can put on almost thoughtlessly because they are so familiar as to be a sort of exoskeleton. I don't see much point in having a wardrobe that goes beyond this, since I wouldn't wear the stuff anyway. So, on my 7 hour trip to O'Connell's last November, I came away only with the perfect old stock McGeorge heathered green shetland, because I didn't like the fit or color of the other ones in my size, and I didn't see anything else that I really had to have.
I like the idea of this in theory. I can never seem to practice it though. I have found items that I return time after time, and have chucked items I didn't like or didn't fit the way I wanted to. I am in the process of doing this with chinos. The problem I have is I always see something else I would really like to add to my wardrobe. My style has stayed with the same parameters for a long time now but is always evolving even if its just one thing at a time. Between the LE Hyde Parks, BB, certain vintage and custom shirts that are perfect, I just don't need anymore buttondowns any time soon. I was perfectly happy with my shirt selection, but Get Smart linked the Jump the Gun website. I saw a shirt that looked perfect and the fit seemed perfect. Why this also meant I had a pick up yet another Fred Perry M12, and a Breton sweater is beyond me. Maybe it speaks to my personality but its the same with music, cinema, whatever with me. I have tastes and they are developed at this point but I can't stop seeking out more and more that falls within my self imposed boundaries. I have all ready have started wearing the new stuff and have ideas of how it will fit in with my old favorites. I only get what I really like at this point yet here I am continuing to buy. I am just starting to accept the clothes is just one more on-going passion of mine but I appreciate your approach.
Last edited by ScarletStreet (2009-04-07 23:16:16)
I'm a great believer in having a 'Working Wardrobe'. Things have to earn their place & get used. Although having said that it means that I should throw out all my suits apart for one to wear when one absolutely has to...
For my 'lifestyle' now I need very few clothes in reality & most of them casual or semi-casual. Tough for a clothes fanatic!
Good stuff.
I'm down to a couple of dozen or so halfway decent items - only a single raincoat, for instance. I have a clear out at least two or three times a year, with stuff getting Ebayed or sent to a charity shop. Anything featuring dacron, polyester (yeah, I know they come from the same source) or any man-made fibre is at risk, as is anything not made in the US, not totally excluding the UK, Ireland, France and Italy. Keydge slack jackets are safe, but not necessarily vintage US stuff. Depends on eye, touch, smell. Hartford and Troy Guild shirts are probably safest, followed by bleeding Madras. Alan Paine stays, Ashworth goes. Golden Fleece stays, Duck Head goes. I'll never buy another pair of Clarks anything, unless old and made in England. Anything Chinese is definitely out, mainly for political reasons. Haggar? Only the old stuff.
Minimalist means a few things to me. In the broad sense its how closely a man's clothes match his personality. A consistency of theme, a theme that rings true to that particular man. Having clothes that all seem to be interchangeable with each other. Not slavishly by any means, but you get the idea. A certain consistency that isn't forced and that becomes a reflection of a personality. As we get older, we generally pare down what we don't find essential in our lives. That certainty of purpose, of knowing who you are and not really giving a shit if people like you or not. That only comes with age, experience, failures, successes, tragedies and so on...
That evolution has been reflected in my clothes. I have always worn clothes that would fit into the Ivy mode, but the range of what I used to wear was much wider in my earlier days. As time has gone by, I keep paring down, returning to what feels right, and that range keeps getting tighter. I've moved away from louder plaids, and into darker more subtle patterns. I feel best in solid colored suits and a simple black knit tie. The distance between my personality and what my clothes "say" is shrinking and shrinking. Im not overly friendly, i'm not an extrovert, I like to blend into the background and observe. Subconsciously, my clothes reflect that more than ever. As that distance shrinks I become a minimalist. It has little to do with how many clothes I may or may not own.
I like the theory, I struggle with the practice.
I also find it takes a while to decide if I really like something.
The other factor that determines how much stuff I keep around is weight, which goes up and down like a yo-yo, a 10-12 pound differential. I have fat clothes, medium clothes (most of the time) and skinny clothes (usually summer when I am most active).
Patrick strikes a chord!
John Simons, upon measuring round my waist: "Sir has a bit of a tummy".
I have begun to pare down my wardrobe and get rid of items that don't fit or which I do not wear with any regularity. This process serves as a reminder that purchasing items for the sole reason that they are on sale is never a good idea. My tastes have changed over the years and I find myself adding more Ivy clothing when I do purchase items. I am trying to focus on adding quality items that I really want and will wear for many years. I am at the point where I do not need to add items for necessity but for want.
I wish I could be a minimalist and have attempted to be one, but I have that disease where I like, for example, a red/blue check buttondown shirt. So I buy all sorts of variations of that I come across and end up with a closet that has 5 of basically the same shirt, jacket, trou, etc etc etc
and in the end I only wear like 20% of my closet on a regular basis
Thanks for all the responses. They suggest that I've run a few things together in my initial post that can be distinguished.
If the reason for not wearing something is simply that you don't have very many occasions, but you really like the item and it fits you well and you look good in it, I would certainly keep it. I would keep as many of these as I have room for. For me it also has nothing to do with simplicity as such--the idea that everything in the wardrobe goes with everything else--but I respect people who take this approach. This is more the idea of minimalism, I think, whereas my philosophy is something different.
The goal for me is to have an entire wardrobe of "go-to" pieces should various occasions arise. An example for me would be shetland sweaters (again). For a long time I bought all different sorts--shaggy dogs, mcgeorge, barbour, etc.etc. As it turned out, some of them were too long for me, and I had to roll up the bottom ribbing just to make it fit. Some of them had really wide necks that I didn't like. Some of them were really baggy. I didn't wear any of these because of these reasons, since I had others that were perfect--perfect length, relatively trim fit, saddle shouldered, etc. I have since gotten rid of most of the shetlands I didn't wear for various reasons. But this hasn't meant I've gone minimalist either. I now just have about 15 that I really like in almost every conceivable color rather than same number I had previously, more than half of which I didn't wear. I love different colors of shetlands, wear them most days in the winter, and enjoy having variety in this regard. The paring down had to do with fit.
For those interested, I just re-read the minimalist thread in the AAAT archives. I think it's a pretty good set of posts from those who take a minimalist approach.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64197&highlight=trad+minimalism