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#1 2009-04-19 03:00:44

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

I turned down a Haggar shirt in J.Simons last year, mainly on the basis that it was made in China.  Now, I don't want to simply recycle the Style Councillor's very convincing arguments from 2008, but if I want a Chinese-made Haggar shirt I don't have to buy a rail ticket to London to do it; a few visits to the local Oxfam or Help the Aged should do the trick.
Some of you will argue that it is only The Look that matters; but ethics must matter, too. 
Straying off that particular subject slightly, it strikes me that in order to keep the modernist edge we are going to have to dig ever deeper.  My two most basic rules now are:
Where was it made?
Of what is it made? 
If it's 100 per cent cotton and made in the United States, I'll take Ralph Lauren, thanks very much, even with the logo. 
I know, of course, that a whole shedload of stuff is outsourced - we all know it - Bass, Sebago, Pendleton, Brooks, Duck Head etc. and that's where the deep digging has to kick in.  We might not be able to demand any longer that it's US union made, but the very history and development of the garment workers is worth knowing about, especially for those who interest themslves in a particular brand of Jewish socialism. 

It's not that the Chinese people aren't good workers.  But their lords and masters need to clean up their human rights act.  My Chinese friends agree. 

So: natural fibres, and made by American workers wherever possible.

Or am I just being naive?

 

#2 2009-04-19 03:20:20

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

I think that's the ideal.

 

#3 2009-04-19 03:45:36

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Seeing the way the English are dressing now - six-pack of Carling, TV dinner and sweat shop sweatshirt to go - makes me more determined than ever to do 'the knowledge'.

There is no alternative.

 

#4 2009-04-19 04:08:00

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

There has to be an ideal.

Ask Andy About Trad was all about the yearning for that ideal and the groping towards knowledge to make that yearning an informed reality. That process still goes on.

This place, as I see it, comes from a slightly different direction. More informed already and looking at the next level up, but that yearning is still the same: To fully express one's self through the medium of one's chosen style.

It's all that FNB ever talks about. Following that White Rabbit.

The Trad/Ivyblogs also share this yearning and the magazine-style Ivy-Style blog with Christian Chensvold caters to that desire well in its Coffee-Table manner. 'The Curriculum' site has reached a consensus and so their quest is over.

We are all here because we want to know more & because knowledge is power. We take our information from wherever we can find it, weigh it up & use it.

In that way the works-in-progress that we all are advance and grow in understanding and knowledge which we can then share with those of a similar mind to us and pass on.

Ripples in a pond and all that.

From '04 on the Internet to date you can see the growth of this ideal. There is more on our subject now than ever before at various levels to suit the various interests of the reader.

And the journey goes on.


(God! But it's good to be free from "Russell" !  wink  )


Best -

Jim

Last edited by Just Jim (2009-04-19 04:09:42)

 

#5 2009-04-19 04:22:08

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

It requires a lot of informed pondering - and the willingness to make mistakes.  Experimentation, to a degree, in order to prevent ossification.  Suspicion and scepticism whenever and wherever necessary.  Just because it's in John's it ain't necessarily kosher, if we agree that a retail outlet exists in order to sell the paying punter what he wants rather than catering for the informed minority.  Thus Rumanian Baracuta, just to give a very glaring example. 

On the subject of Christian Chensvold, I once read that if someone tells you you're a dandy it's time to re-stock your wardrobe.  Otherwise you might end up thinking you're Tom Wolfe.

 

#6 2009-04-19 04:24:31

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Agreed. Style is a process.

 

#7 2009-04-19 04:35:16

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

This is how the '78 mods often went so badly wrong: by ignoring the dizzying and complex style changes between, say, 1959 and 1962-3 (Ready Steady Go begin then?).  If you weren't committed and with cash to spend you couldn't keep up.  Like being Top Ted around '53.  Ivy, though, needn't cost a packet - unless you're going in for three-piece tweed suits etc. from The Man.  Some of my favourite bits and pieces have only set me back a few quid.

 

#8 2009-04-19 04:39:46

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Natural fibres was not a big deal in 1969.

The Ivy Shop and Squire shops were not the only retail outlets back then either.

Outsourcing is a separate issue; though I am now more worried about our own great firms - the Northampton shoemakers etc. - than, say, American shirtmakers.

 

#9 2009-04-19 04:54:54

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Yeah, what's happening with those, K?  I hear Sanders have gone broke for one.

 

#10 2009-04-19 05:06:16

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2653

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...


Otter : Take it easy, I'm pre-law.
Boon : I thought you were pre-med.
Otter : What's the difference?

 

#11 2009-04-19 05:13:03

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Of course, Patrick, I'm romanticizing it all from a strictly Anglo point of view.  I think the notion of supporting the small retailers will find widespread sympathy here. 
I guess I was thinking of the unions back in the dim and distant - which is what happens when you spend four years studying US political culture in an English university with leftist professors!

 

#12 2009-04-19 05:29:22

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

I first saw the Union Label in 'Flip' on Longacre & was amazed by it. Not a thing we have in Engerland. Even just the idea of it is so un-English.

Top!

 

#13 2009-04-19 05:31:20

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

 

#14 2009-04-19 05:38:36

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Could be.  I've got a pair of those Sanders boots, and rang them up a couple of years ago for new laces.  Not a sign of them now, either on-line or in the 'phone book.

 

#15 2009-04-19 06:23:38

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/sanders/products/178.php

I will have to start giving you your military title. Nice boot.

 

#16 2009-04-19 09:00:58

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

^Always thought those George Boots had to have 3 eyelets...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#17 2009-04-19 09:03:44

Hard Bop Hank
Ivy Soul Brother
From: land of a 1000 dances
Posts: 4923

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...


“No Room For Squares”
”All political art is bad – all good art is political.”
"Would there be any freedom of press or speech if one must reduce his vocabulary to vapid innocuous euphemisms?"

 

#18 2009-04-19 14:20:39

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

 

#19 2009-04-19 15:34:55

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

What, criticism of the new administration already?

 

#20 2009-04-19 16:12:51

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

 

#21 2009-04-19 16:39:50

ScarletStreet
Member
Posts: 540

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...


"All men are frauds. The only difference between them is that some admit it. I myself deny it." -- H.L. Mencken

 

#22 2009-04-19 17:18:25

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

 

#23 2009-04-20 00:15:31

chetmiles
Member
Posts: 1099

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Excellent debating points here, chaps.

 

#24 2009-04-20 07:14:00

BulldogNH
Member
Posts: 200

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

I can't prove it but I would say that the Ivy League style as marketed by Brooks and to some extent Press decades ago placed more emphasis on the country of origin when the product was NOT made in USA.  In particular, I think goods made in England or Scotland had a particular cachet, and Brooks in particular was always trying to draw Anglo-American connections.

The "Made in USA" consciousness that we see today, as I read it, is more a product of the very late 20th c.--when the whole textile industry seemed to move to the far east.  In the 50s/60s my understanding is that most clothing items--even lots of really bad ones--were made in USA, so that in itself didn't matter much.

It's of course different for you Brits, I imagine, since you were self-consciously adopting another country's style, and so the "made in USA" label functioned as part of the authenticity of clothes that were hard to source there.

 

#25 2009-04-20 07:47:09

Just Jim
Member
Posts: 1159

Re: We must be forever rebuilding the temple...

Absolutely on all counts. IMO.

 
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