Chums,,
Found this on some blog..
"I always loved the Ivy League look, its ease & tradition. I started with the origins of tradition, but I wasn't bound by it." -Ralph Lauren
I'm getting interested in Christian Chensvold's impact now. Echo of "Russell Street" that he is on the 'Ivy' front.
More details of this RL quote?
Ralph influenced by Christian influenced by RS is a great thought.
I have it from a reliable source that John Simons continues to rate RL as a designer; even carries on selling his shirts and polo shirts. If I saw one at a fiver in a charity shop, US made only, I might not pass it by. And yet...
It's like Gant now: worn, in the UK, by the wrong kind of people, who know no more of Ivy - or even 'trad' if it comes to it - than I do of plant life on Neptune.
That's not the way it works over here. You could say we're just more snobbish about it all. And our man Simons means more to the UK contingent than you know. He's more than simply a storekeeper: a lot of us know him.
It's no secret to anyone, is it? Jim might deny it, but Jim isn't a snob. Living miles from London I can scarcely defer to John on all matters Ivy, nor would he expect it. He would, in fact, think I was being a bit daft. But snobbishness - absolutely, 100 per cent and then some.
Moved this post to chet's snobbery thread.
Last edited by AQG (2009-04-24 14:21:11)
Lots of thoughts on that, 66. Unfortunately, I'm in the tenth ring of hell known as a Little League baseball game and they will have to keep until I have a full keyboard.
Two thumbs indeed, Tony. There are many, however, who accuse me of having one permanently engaged elsewhere.
1966 is really on to something in my opinion. In the 90s, the recurrent them of Ivy popped up in at least a couple of different guises. Business casual drove the first one. Suddenly, guys who wore really bad suits were told that they were liberated from them. This caused mass confusion as they then had to figure out how to not wear the suits and still look fit to be trusted with money or products or whatever responsibility. This ushered in what might be know as the Docker's era. It was a Levis brand attached to chinos, polo and other shirts. I think they even turned out some shoes. It came to the rescue of all of these guys. They unknowingly got rescued by a brand that picked up preppy/Ivy staples and marketed them out. None of these guys would have self-identified as preppies, but that look was the lifeline. Of course, they really didn't do it very well. Shoes, belts and other accessories were often just dead wrong for the clothes. Either they were too formal or just plain rubbish. But that's not the point. The influence came out strongly.
The second trend I noticed happened in the late 90s to early 00s. Suits went to a slimmer lapel and body style. Ties narrowed down, too. There was a focus on leaner, harder cuts and colors. Brooks did this with their SB3 suit. My thought at the time was that the whole look was heavily influenced by the early 1960s. It wasn't the same, to be sure. The jackets were darted but the trousers went plain front. Specific cues and details were different. However, the overall effect was much more like what the 55-65 stuff than clothes from any other period in the 20th century.
Neither of these efforts was at all self-conciously preppy or Ivy, yet those influences reached the mass American market. In the 80s and the 00s, it reached it in a much more self-aware way. Yet before, during and after those times, the core of the preppy/Ivy look kept on moving along. In America, that is.
Hmmmm - But in England at this time we were just importing the American clothes of the day so it was the same here too if you were into this style. It moved on like the continuum it is & always has been.
You call it Ivy along with Preppy up above when talking about Dockers & all that & I'd argue with that a bit. Surely it was more of a Preppy update? And those slimmed down suits - Surely that was just a rather 'retro' bit of styling in the fashion industry at the time?
All you cite from the 90's onwards seems like fashion industry Preppy update stuff to me. It's a watered down, indeed 'dress down', version of various elements of the style.
If you wanted the old Ivy style from '90 to 2000 then you went to where the then current manifestation of the style was sold. Like we did over here.
'66 still makes a very good point about the old undercurrent though.
Dockers were mass-market shite, cut around the crotch by palsied blind beggar women in Bombay. Very hard to get your dick out.
Yup: a bad buy. I'm sure your equipment is in excellent working order, however, and friends of ours will be chartering an aeroplane shortly in order to carry out a full inspection...
Chums,
this "son" business -- what haff you wrought, ol' Jim?
on Raff, as friends of his call him: his strength (if he has one) seems to me that he is a good observer, for the most part: a certain fanatical attention to detail, which I suppose comes with being an enthusiast of something.