Putting aside Chetmiles absolutely justified condemnation of the practice of 'outsourcing' (I feel about this like I feel about eating meat. I know it is unquestionably wrong and morally repugnant but these feelings do not get in the way of my actions. I still eat meat and I still buy the odd item that's been made by an 8 year old in China. I want governments to pass laws to stop these things happening) I am currently full of admiration for whoever is behind their clothes design philosophy. There are more items worth having in Uniqlo at the moment than I have seen being sold anywhere, except in J.Simons, in the last 20 years, and I most definitely DO include all of the American retailers who have been going downhill for 25 years and are now largely redundant. You can find in the Uniqlo nearest to Oxford Circus :
cotton slack jackets with patch pockets, slim lapels and raised seams in about 6 colours.
great madras shorts in about 10 different patterns, ditto shirts
linen/cotton/seersucker(esque) three to two suits with natural shoulders in great retro summer colours
seersucker shorts
good selvedge denim made in Japan
good, well shaped plain front chinos in great colours
madras/linen/seersucker caps
skinny knitted ties, and 2 great new slim plaid ties
I find it impossible to resist. If they could get this stuff made in Europe and charge twice, three times as much and pay their workers properly and make them to a higher spec then they'd be the perfect chain retailer. They never will because globalisation has corrupted pricing, manufacturing and the expectations of greedy shareholders. I do applaud them though for their imaginative presentation of the 'golden period of American clothing' that we all love here. Somebody at Uniqlo knows so well what they are doing. The Japanese show up Western designers for the frauds they are, and I include Ralphy Lauren in that absolutely. His stuff is made by poor people and he still flogs it for absurd prices and the quality is pretty shabby.
GG
It's problematic. Boy, is it problematic. I'm trying hard to impose definite restrictions on myself - then I go into a charity shop and find a Haggar shirt for £3 - made in Central America - like Bean and Pendleton now? - and I think: soft cotton, soft collar, it'll do for work at least. Somewhere, along the way, most of us are guilty. Those Jewish tailors and cutters around Wardour Street worked like dogs.
I just wish they would make their stuff in a more generous range of sizes.
Maybe they think that after a certain point it no longer looks good.
Uniqlo could clean up if they made merino thermals for winter sports. Ice breaker stuff from New Zealand is a shocking price.
i like uniqlo. i really like uniqlo.
those made in japan selvedge denims are only £29.99 now...i think i might.
I suppose living 130 miles or so from the capital is going to make it easy for me. I don't much like the area around Oxford Street/Regent Street anyway (although my 12 year old still digs Hamleys'). I don't like Covent Garden, either, if it comes to that, so once the shop closes...
Look, I can see the attraction: Ivy at reasonable prices. All for it. But I'm 50 this year and most of what I have in my wardrobe - expanding waist notwithstanding - should hopefully see me through until four strong men carry me out on their shoulders.
Is it just me, then? I'm willing to try alternative sources.
According to Uniqlo, the working condition in their Chinese factories are supervised by a third party. Made in China doesn't necessarily mean child labour. There are sweatshops in the US and elsewhere too.
I saw some slack jackets in the Flagship Store in Manhattan last year. Kinda like whipcord fabric, 3 buton closure that you can roll to the 2nd, patch & flap pockets, undarted and unlined. Very relaxed, slouchy but smart. I bought one in tan, I wish I had bought a navy one as well.
I like their selvedge denim and chinos. They both are better quality than I've generally seen in Uniqlo (on the very rare occasions I've visited). The "vintage chino" is very heavy and cut like a military chino with beaded seams, as opposed to dress chinos which I'm not a fan of.
I've bought the chinos and jeans in there recently and having been excited by the 3/2 jacket on their website found the reality a bit lacking. Perhaps my local branch got some crappy cuts and I should check Oxford Street.
I suppose the fact that Japan still has some love for Ivy must influence them. (Did anyone see the cover of the magazine 'Monocle' recently? Young Japanese designer sporting the sack jacket and round specks. It's all there.) I think the fact that there is even a shop in London apart from JS selling anything remotely like this is some cause for celebration.
But I know what you mean by the 'morality' bit. Like Jim infers, in a pervasive globalised economy, where do you go?
I'd be interested to know if John Simons, Jeff Garrett or Ken Lovegrove have an opinion on the store. Of course, they sell the aforementioned Chinese-made Haggar shirts, so maybe have no major problem in that area. Part of me, though, can't help thinking that buying clothes should be relatively difficult. I've done plenty of trudging round in my time - and still do. To go into John's and stock up - slack jackets, loafers, dessies, Sebago etc. - has been great, but those items are only a part of my wardrobe. Some of my best stuff has come out of charity shops or 'Wild' in Nottingham: American clothing but with a distinct student-y slant. The owners know their business even if the staff are pig ignorant. The pea coat I had out of there - still with the sailor's name inside - John weighed in his hand and said was pretty good. I may soon be needing it on again!
Frankly, I think I'm a bit long in the tooth for Uniqlo.
I think SubtleCool hits the nail rather succinctly on the head.
The thinking behind the clothes appears sound from afar but the reality generally falls way short.
In the main the stuff is cheap, nasty and just plain odd in a lot of instances.
The honourable exception would be their solid coloured cotton sweatshirts, which are a more than reasonable approximation of the Buzz Rickson model at about a tenth of the price. The pink and baby blue marl sweats are terrific; I've had lots of wear out of them over the winter and will buy more as they have rapidly become signature items in my wardrobe, teaming beautifully with Harris tweeds of many different hues. Currently on sale at £9.99 it might be time to stock up as I get the feeling they won't offer these every season.
Well, I would never buy Buzz Rickson - too damn old - and would certainly jib at paying $100 for a decent cotton (non-poly) grey sweatshirt. They do look all right for the price, I have to admit.
For ten quid they're exactly what a sweatshirt should be: utilitarian and hardwearing, but with a pleasing silhouette and nice detailing. Body fabric is 100% cotton, ribbing is a blend. Cut is a Japanese imagining of the youthful styles of mid 20th Century Americana: long and slim, rather than the middle-aged 'short and wide' as seen at Bean et al.
Much better than anything Russell Athletic has churned out for about a quarter of a century.
Yeah; my old Russell Athletic is a bit minging really. As for the new stuff... shite...
It should be boycotted. If there was a neo-Nazi takeover in Germany and they started selling cheap Madras, would you buy it? Check out the Chinese record on human rights once more. (Yes, I know certain American states still execute people: and Bill Clinton knew more about it than I). Take 'Made in the USA/England/Scotland/Ireland/France/Italy' and of organic materials as your benchmark of acceptance. If the Chinese had a Nelson Mandela you'd think twice.
^ All very Guardianista.
I would prefer to buy German-engineered products, rather than Madras, as that is where their strength is. Having said that, they would still have to catch up with the Japanese.
China executed the bloke responsible for the poisoned baby milk scandal. Quite right too.
Capital punishment would have been the appropriate sentence for many currently housed in Britain's jails at the taxpayers' expense.
Never read the bloody 'Guardian', K, and that's the truth. Nor do I disagree with you about the punishment fitting the crime for a lot of evil bastards in British prisons. The guys who butchered those French kids in New Cross deserve nothing but topping. Funny: Gibson Gardens thinks I'm a reactionary, my family all drive around in VWs, and you think I'm frigging Polly Toynbee. I don't know whether to laugh or cry!
I still think the Chinese are c***s, though.
In fact, read between the lines, K, and you'll find the 'Telegraph' reader (for want of anything better).
The store looked to be closed when I passed by yesterday. Maybe for 'refurbishment'? But they don't seem to be mentioned much on the forum nowadays.
They first came into the UK in the late 1990's, my mother worked for them and they had a store at MacArthur Glenn Outlet Village in Ellesmere Port. They closed it because they weren't selling enought at the time. I had some of their stuff, I didn't rate it at the time, I put in on par with Gap.
They have sometimes turned out reasonable 'built to a price' shirts and chinos. But there's no consistency, as you walk in a few months later and everything has changed.