The problem with Michael Williams and those like him is that they have no historical consciousness. Or put another way, what they mean when they state that something (usually a style) has been gaining ground or has arrived is that their object du jour is now recognized or embraced by some vaguely defined consuming class.
Work wear has never stopped being popular in New England. Boston has always had enormous segments of the population wearing so-called "authentic articles". Some wear it for work (South Boston), some wear it because it's relatively cheap and fashionable (young people, collegiate crowds, preppies -- from the 50's through present if the alums and their observations are any indication). Some wear it because places like Harry the Greek used to sell it for $1 for a pair of used Carhartt's. I assume the same is true for other parts of the US. I remember, for instance, Dickies jackets being popular in New York, along the eastern seaboard and on parts of the west coast, not to mention Chicago, in the 80's and 90's. Then there's the fact that flannel has never really died. (uh, grunge....).
All these bloggery-type observatons and the media that patronizes them sort of become self-fulfilling prophecies.
Moreover, these half-witted journalists who posit, for the past year and a half, that people are wearing $200 Red Wings and the like, because they want to return to an idea of a foundational, stable, solid ethos based upon substance are performing the worse and most infantile kind of crude materialist logic. (uh, no pun intended).
Very good analysis, Horace.
Best -
Excellent summation by Horace!
I like it. Old Woolrich and Filson garments are second to none for reliability and overall warmth. I suppose navy pea coats are, in a sense, workwear, too: warm and functional. Well, as a man grows older, y'know...
^ Matey looks like a G20 protester.
I'm sorry, "the Great Depression, when work was plentiful", huh? Maybe it's because I'm working class and midwestern, but the guys in these pictures look like jerks to me. My grandfather and father dressed in denim, flannel, and work boots because it was tough, warm, and affordable, but Saturday it was the best sport shirt, chinos, and loafers Sears offered. Sunday morning it was a navy suit. This sort of thing just pisses me off.
A common criticism of ACL is that he just hops from fad to fad - Probably that's just the nature of bloggery & having to fill space & keep updating the thing. Over time though it undermines the blogger I think, especially those into blogging for careerist reasons. Instead of looking knowledgeable they just look like they drift along on a scum laden tide of superficial 'style journalism'. Silly froth to pad out newpapers and advertisment heavy magazines.
"Approval of what is approved of
Is as false as a well-kept vow."
Last edited by Decline & Fall (2009-05-09 08:27:01)
Surely yir man's beard wid constitute a safety hazard if operating a lathe or similar heavy machinery?
The "respectable working class" which wis prevalent until Thatcher destroyed UK industry in the 80s wis very much of that "good clothes for going out/going to church" ethos.
My da for instance wore overalls all his working days, but wouldnae contemplate going on a night oot withoot a scrub and dressing up.
However those days seem to have long gone.
Tony Parsons summarised it well in his (in)famous "Tattooed Jungle" essay, later adopted for telly.
My da's generation very much saw workwear as just that - clothes ye wore to work.
Have to admit I'm partial to the odd workwear item - especially in winter.
I'm sorry Decline & Fall, I wasn't trying to attack you, and I simply misread the sentence about the Depression. I apologize. What I was reacting to most of all was that headline: "It's possible to look like you work hard for a living, no labor required."
"Not nearly so many people want actually to be possessed of virtue as want to appear to be possessed of it."
- Cicero
1977 and I'm walking into Alameda from my base at Government Island. I was heading for a barbershop with the most talented barber I've ever met, a stop at a great bookstore and lunch at a kosher deli.I'm wearing my leather flight jacket from Airstation Kodiak.
This 'creature' ran in front of cars from across the street and blocked my way. His nose looked like moldy cheese forgotten in the refridgerator. He wanted to buy my jacket, or go shopping with me where I got it and have some drinks with me.
I received a epiphany how women feel with an aggressive male. He wouldn't go away even when I explained the jacket was service issue. I'm sitting in the barber's chair and he's sitting in front of me still talking about having drinks. I finally said if he covered my haircut I would, and he was so excited he jumped into the other chair to have his hair 'done just like my new friend.'
I excused myself to the men's room after my barber whispered in my ear on finishing. I went out the back door and left my 'new friend' to pay for my haircut.
My clothing mentor at the time, an older, very genteel gay man later explained leather flight jackets and clipped moustaches were all the rage with younger gays.
So off came my jacket followed by my clipped, military regulation moustache. I felt a very deep resentment, and imagine any distinct group of men with iconic clothing may too.
Last edited by Chris Kavanaugh (2009-05-09 14:14:18)
I'd imagine that being hit on by a Trad would be a very similar experience!
This can be explained as a substanceless US hipster-bred fad that ties in with the faux-"back to basics" lifestyle of fixed-gear bikes, PBR, post-"freak folk" "earthiness", "DIY crafts" and denim collectors...Williamsburg (NY), Alston (Boston) , The Mission (San Francisco), Portland/Seattle and Eagle Rock/Silver Lake (LA) trickling down to the tastemakers and "cutting edge" designers. Obviously some cross over from the established "work wear collector" crowd that was influenced by the Japanese. Co-opted (already there!) by an Urban Outfitters near you.
I personally hate to see this on city streets. Where's your woodshed? In your loft?
Great names being dropped there. I'm with you. THIS is the insight that ACL needs to count.
Last edited by ScarletStreet (2009-05-12 12:00:53)
Thank you Scarlet (and Russell) - I've been enjoying many of the contributions from the very beginning.
By the way, Russell, did you ever get a direct line to Michael Cuscuna?
Welcome, LP... Shame about the Press, old lad...
The Chronicle is firing half of it's staff anyhow... I'm sure they'll take any contributions for low pay about now.
This isn't the first time this stuff has become popular but it seems to be a little more extreme this time. Even the venerable Woolrich markets to this crowd. I remember the authentic brand work wear becoming popular with certain types a few years ago. Pointer, Carhartt, and Dickies all started showing up on these tiny little emo creatures and in black street fashion. I think Dickies catered to this (all though Dickies has been worn by all types of people for ages), not sure about the other brands. It was a little upsetting as I had worn certain things by these brands since childhood. Same goes with Redwing this time around. BoO is right about it possibly producing some good stuff. These kind of fads are no different than modern Brooks, you just have to sift through the rubbish to find something worthwhile. I do get serious laughs about some hipster kid paying hundreds of dollars for something they could get from Pointer for much less though.