A Neapolitan look is becoming more influential and important to American Men in the more cosmopolitan areas. Although Americans are adding their own colors and looks to the Stylo Neapolitano, there is merit in investigating the basic Neapolitan look. Feel free to add your thoughts or observaions.

In general it’s a more minimalist look but with very precise measurements for both shirts and suits. Overall the Neapolitans prefer well defined, trimmer, precisely tailored garments. It is an unmistakable look, crisply tailored and yet very soft.

There is a fuller point to point with the shoulder. About an 8 inch high side vent on the jacket and a little bit of a break in the chest (Kiton is the example). Jackets have a semi-soft padded sleeve head. A soft shoulder and a slightly lower 3 button stance to the jacket. Flap pockets on the jacket. Patch pockets can also be used but still with 3 button stance on jackets, especially with sports jackets.

Natural Brooks Brothers shoulder is the Neapolitan look. Some also use a slightly roped shoulder. Caraceni may sometimes do a roped shoulder.  Sometimes no vents on a jacket. Some jackets have three buttons with a peak lapel. Most jackets have that simple, natural shoulder. Very few center vent Neapolitan coats. A little fuller shoulder points and easier chest break than the Roman style. In some ways the Roman look is the Huntsman to the Neapolitan’s Anderson and Sheppard look

Pants are often with a flat front or a single pleat but in any case trimmed to the knee and with an 18 inch (narrower) bottom. Pleating is most often the reverse pleat. Pants usually have Belt loops but can also have side straps with tabs (but not with braces).


Neapolitans believe in pick stitching on the jacket lapel edges. At the edges of the pockets there is a small crescent reinforcement. The breast pocket is generally a welt one and is usually placed at a well defined slant. Although they prefer lighter fabrics they are happy to apply their look to the beefier heavy weight fabrics and more darkly colored ones too.

Slight curvature to the sleeve corner ending before the working buttonholes, bar tacks on the working buttonholes and bar tacks on the vents.

The notch of the lapel is a little lower than in England but still quite high, like a Brioni notch or a Kiton notch, slightly rounded edges. A lot of pick stitching and lapping and top stitching. All this stitching is by hand and very beautifully executed.

Fabrics are solids, tick weaves, broken pin stripes and Prince of Wales plaids in mid to light weights. Tropical weights for a tan suit which may be more of khaki mud color than a sand or golden color. Linen suits, jackets or odd pants made up in the softer, lighter weight Italian (vs. irish) linen.

Sports coats are in district or windowpane checks. Patch pockets are a definite favorite here. Three patch pockets on the jacket. Angled flap pockets are also favored. Buttons are selected to blend with the jacket perfectly. Horn buttons are preferred. Solid sports jackets in a biscuit color, navy blazers, teal blue, medium blue, toast. Medium to light grey pants are paired with these.

In the Neapolitan school a small amount will wear a custom back on a sports jacket in a specific check and he who wants to be a little different might do a bi-swing or half belted or more common the one piece back.

Slanted buttonholes on the sleeves of a jacket can be a nice, different touch. One single breasted belly button for a tweed or cashmere sports coat sleeve. Sometimes also for a suit they will make the buttonholes slanted. Sometimes a one button flap pocket on the jacket breast.

Usually solid shirts, these men are not practitioners of the English style of shirt with the bold colors and large scaled patterns (with some exceptions). Stripes and checks if chosen, will be single colors on a white background. Even the larger ginghams might be chosen like the butcher scale but usually in blue with a solid tie.  Medium width stripes, Bengal and candy stripes are the most popular range. Preferred colors for shirt patterns are Ice blue, navy, and green. Purple, lavender, lilac and to a certain degree pink are avoided. Shirt fit is trim and they like the French placket-less front or a smaller scale placket down the shirt front. No monograms for them.

Cufflinks in pure gold, enamels, in all cases elegant. Gold is considered a bonus though. Red gold is popular but yellow gold is still most popular. If tie clips are worn they are usually plain, thin, long and pure gold.

Socks, Pantherella socks   Grayson Reed socks even Corgi cable socks in cotton or wool over the calf and in subtle patterns. They usually match the trousers and harmonize and they usually won’t try and match the necktie.

For shirts these men prefer more tie-knot space in the neckband, higher backs to the collar more an Italian cutaway collar. This accommodates their preference for heavy weight solid ties or heavy woven ones with tiny neat designs and again some heavy woven self repp designs or actual stripes but in whimsical color combinations which denote no organization or association. Above all woven looks predominate in neckties. The Neapolitans prefer either a more Windsor style knot or the Albert knot. Some prints but woven are preferred. French cuffs on the shirts, narrower and tapered to the wrists. The Neapolitans choose a medium thickness for the collar and cuff interlining.

No ornamentation on the shoe whatsoever. Lace up and the monk strap are very popular as is a smooth wingtip without brogueing, lighter weight shoes, extremely streamline. Berluti, Corthay, Artioli, Zenobi, Alfred Banister, Stefano Bemer, Moreschi, Lattanzi, Barrett, E. Green, Santoni. They like a double sole.

Simple buckle belts, maybe an exotic skin but usually calf and all very fine quality. They generally wear the same belt brands as the shoes they wear.

Apparently the E. Green last most asked for is the 202 last. They like two toned shoes in brown and white (either white leather or suede) and brown and tan linen. Formal shoes are preferred and they love bluchers.

Flat, medium sized watches. Simple and in gold, either yellow or white gold.

Overcoats, semi raglan with a belt in gabardine, cashmere or Loro Piano travel cashmere. Double faced cashmeres always plan and often three button single breasted, notch lapel coats. Sometimes a single breasted, lighter weight polo coat in camel or cashmere in a different color like burnt toast or oatmeal

Silk, balsetta microfiber are the fabrics they use for raincoats.

Whangee, bamboo hand made, thin wooden umbrellas. Black is not popular they prefer more medium range, softer shades.

Some may wear a fedora, maybe a travel fedora. A straw hat may be seen but hats are not in the popular Neapolitan culture.