Film Noir Buff Style Forum / A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-01 06:53:25

tteplitzmd · 2006-09-03 18:40:16

Barbera via Lesser are very, very nice. The range includes fancy for sports jackets, a few solids for trousers or blazer. Very nice hand. I would suggest comparison though to Woodhouse super 180's for the solids, a wool and cashmere mix, and Clayton's wool and cashmere super 150 and super 180 in solids and suitings (no jacketing except for blazer). To me, Barbera is pretty much top of the line for its weight from Made in Italy mills. I do think the English Woodhouse and Clayton's have a bit more English feel, very soft like the Barbera, perhaps due to the traces of cashmere. Most of us would opt for an English cloth over Italian given the choice. My sense is that the English cloths will hold up better over time, especially at these perishable weights.

Finally, does anyone know the significance of the Carlo Barbera (Blancs) logo? Lesser Bros. don't know either what it signifies. I am one of those guys who likes to have the mill or woolen merchant's label (badge) sewn in to the jacket lining by the tailor.

ShirtFan · 2006-09-17 08:32:15

There is a thread on another august forum discussing cloth quality. Does anyone here know how to judge the quality of different cuts of wool?

Last edited by ShirtFan (2006-09-17 08:32:41)

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-17 15:31:46

tteplitzmd · 2006-09-17 17:35:38

I actually visited Drapers in Bologna some years ago. Magnificent stuff, some unusual offerings, but prohibitively priced at least in the US markets, with several middle men added to the already very high prices. Many years ago the US agent told me: "You (me) can't touch the stuff." He was paraphrasing the lyrics of a then popular rock/rap song, affirming that it was priced beyond my reach. I do have a great Dupioni silk and a tropical worsted from them. A lot of their winter jacketing was either British or Italian Brit-like in patterns.

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-17 19:07:56

it does make you wonder if we arent on the crest of the wave of the last great age of finely tailored clothes for men?

A bit scary. But since I have enough cloth for 100 suits or so I suppose I shouldnt worry too much.

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-18 10:34:49

byoloye · 2006-09-18 11:09:32

Chaps,

I am very intrigued by the high praise heaped on Drapers.

I am looking to have a POW sports-coat made. I have just looked through the Carlo Barbera for Lesser Book. Some excellent POW patterns in that book. I am no cloth maven, but that cloth just feels luxurious to touch. I am 31 and I wear my sports coats with a shirt and a pair of jeans ....(no typo there, I wear jeans with my sports-coat and I'm proud of it ;-) )

I am still wondering if the POW checks in that CB for Lesser book would be too formal for a pair of jeans. I am interested in seeing what Drapers have to offer. Perhaps they could send me swatches......

Does anyone have contact details e.g. phone number, address? Does Drapers have a web presence? Does anyone know if they available in the UK?

Many thanks in advance,
Bolaji

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-18 11:36:42

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-18 11:43:23

A nice read from G Bruce Boyer

http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar/CA_Archives/CA_Show_Article/0,2322,1183,00.html

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-18 19:43:52

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-18 19:44:23

Van · 2006-09-18 22:17:44

The Fox site is fascinating. Such history.

byoloye · 2006-09-19 10:41:58

Sorry about the late response. I've actually done some work in the office today........

FNB and Marc, I appreciate your replies. Good to know I'm in good company wearing jeans with my sports-coats.

Marc, that sports coat is a beauty. I didn't see that check in the book I was looking through. Possibly cut out by another tailor. I looked through the CB for Lesser's (Sports Coats and flannels). 12 oz weight. After I had looked through that book, everything else just felt rough to touch.

btw, I'm really enjoying this thread.

Horace · 2006-09-19 11:41:32

Cruz Diez · 2006-09-19 14:41:27

It would be nice if some of us could grab a CB for Lesser book, photograph some swatches, and post the pics here, don't you think?

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-19 15:50:24

The Vitalis Barberis fabrics from Biella are also fetching and made in the English manner of 2 ply yarns each weave direction. They have a decidedly up to date feel and are some of the preferred fabrics by the American elite. Sometimes the H. Lesser stuff is just too antiquated. It's beautiful for a conoisseur but the finish is retro. Disclaimer #2, nothing wrong with retro, just make sure you dont just get Lesser for a suit because you think it's the best, make sure it's appropriate for your purposes.

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-19 15:51:44

tteplitzmd · 2006-09-19 16:30:30

Vitali Barberis is very utilitarian, especially the worsted flannels, favorably priced, but not in the same league as Carlo Barbera (Blancs).

beantown · 2006-09-19 19:40:14

many regard vbc as the top of the value ratio ( price/quality )

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-19 19:50:08

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-19 20:00:16

tteplitzmd · 2006-09-20 05:36:46

Well put, Marc Grayson. The color range of the VB worsted flannels is superb. Some of mine are 15 years old or so. I find I use these odd slacks 9 months of the year, especially when travelling. Over time the wosted flannel aspect is more obvious, but they are certainly more hearty and hold their shape, compared to a true flannel.

byoloye · 2006-09-20 05:37:01

Film Noir Buff · 2006-09-20 06:59:23

#51 2006-09-01 06:53:25

Re: A most satisfactory purveyor of cloth

#52 2006-09-03 18:40:16

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#53 2006-09-17 08:32:15

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#54 2006-09-17 15:31:46

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#55 2006-09-17 17:35:38

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#56 2006-09-17 19:07:56

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#57 2006-09-18 10:34:49

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#58 2006-09-18 11:09:32

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#59 2006-09-18 11:36:42

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#60 2006-09-18 11:43:23

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#61 2006-09-18 19:43:52

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#62 2006-09-18 19:44:23

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#63 2006-09-18 22:17:44

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#64 2006-09-19 10:41:58

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#65 2006-09-19 11:41:32

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#66 2006-09-19 14:41:27

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#67 2006-09-19 15:50:24

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#68 2006-09-19 15:51:44

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#69 2006-09-19 16:30:30

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#70 2006-09-19 19:40:14

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#71 2006-09-19 19:50:08

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#72 2006-09-19 20:00:16

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#73 2006-09-20 05:36:46

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#74 2006-09-20 05:37:01

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#75 2006-09-20 06:59:23

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