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#1 2009-05-29 11:35:46

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

The Ivy colour scheme

I've been discussing this with Paddy over the last day or so with reference to knitwear, and remember those interesting comments posted on John Simons' website a few months ago.  If memory serves me well, navy blue, dark green and various shades of grey were mentioned there, and Paddy adds maroon as a traditional Ivy colour.  Shaggy Dogs and the offerings from the Andover Shop strike me as sometimes a little overdone, unless they are intended for quite young men.
Paddy claims that knitwear should be so muted as to appear almost dull, the desired effect drawing the eye to the man behind the clothing rather than the clothing itself.  He compares this to perspective in painting, where the eye is drawn into the picture, finding the interest behind the obvious: perhaps what Gibson Gardens refers to as '3-D'. 

Any thoughts on this?

 

#2 2009-05-29 12:01:27

Chris_H
Ivy Original
From: Watford
Posts: 1666

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

I agree, knitwear in muted colours is preferable. I like the contrast of a colourful shirt, perhaps a pink plaid or a madras under a plain navy or charcoal crew-neck.

These days I leave the brighter coloured knitwear for the preppies and the trads.


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#3 2009-05-29 12:10:38

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#4 2009-05-30 00:34:08

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

There was always the colourful 'Choatie' look in the Classic American style & Boyer writes of bright colours too along side all the more muted shades - That's the stuff which was picked up & exaggerated by Preppy & now by that exaggeration of an exaggeration that we fondly call Trad.

It's not for me, but that's only me talking.

Chris_H's inspirational Madras under Shetland look was a revelation to me last year - I'd always kept those too items apart, relegating them to their respective seasons, and how wrong I was to do that. They look fantastic together and the flash of colour at collar & cuffs makes a great accent detail to any outfit in a way which a great mass of colour would not (IMO).

Subtlety at work again you see.

 

#5 2009-05-30 01:58:15

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#6 2009-05-30 05:27:55

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#7 2009-05-30 05:31:19

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#8 2009-05-30 05:34:11

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#9 2009-05-30 05:40:20

DB
Member
Posts: 216

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

I enjoy injecting some brighter colors in my weekend and casual wear, but as others have mentioned, moderation is the key.  One of my favorite pair of trousers is a lemon yellow chino which I will usually pair with a white or blue OCBD and maybe a navy blazer depending upon the occasion.  I would not pair the trousers with a pink shirt and madras blazer.  That would scream notice me a bit too loudly for me.

 

#10 2009-05-30 06:34:40

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#11 2009-05-30 06:43:04

Natural Sole Brother
Ivy, naturally.
Posts: 782

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

Colour is like poetry. Everyone's appreciation of the colour palette is different, just as different colours match each person's complexion differently.

Medium gray, for example, looks bleeding awful on me. For that reason I don't often wear tee-shirts, sweatshirts and sweaters in grey. I own a couple of grey suits, but they just look wrong and hang in the wardrobe for much of the time. Any 'blue' or any 'brown' and any combination thereof is a different matter. Charcoal's OK for me too.

I own some boss pink shetlands: blueish pinks, brownish pinks and so on, along with pink marl sweatshirts, and think that a 'buttermilk' silk-knit tie looks great with the BB blue/white uni-stripe shirt and navy blazer.

I'm not averse to the odd splash of colour but in the final analysis these decisions are personal to each of us and shouldn't be a creed or an edict dictated by any clothing philosophy.

 

#12 2009-05-30 07:09:49

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

You're certainly supposed to choose your colour according to your complexion.  And hair colour, too, I'd reckon.  NSBs is a nicely reasoned argument.  I think it remains the case that some colours are for above the waist and some for below (think of maroon cords, for example: very Andover Shop but possibly not for the likes of us, whereas a maroon needlecord button-down might be rather nice on certain occasions).

 

#13 2009-05-30 07:44:10

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

'Colour is like poetry'.  I rather like that suggestion.  I have to admit, my interest in this subject goes back the best part of 35 years, to when I still took a mild interest in Bryan Ferry (big Roxy and Bowie fan at 13, you understand), and it was noted in a magazine interview that he preferred a muted Sickert to a flashy Chagall.  Stylistically, of course, Ferry has been hit or miss from the beginning, and yet small aspects had a certain resonance; for me at least.  Oh, I also liked the fact that he admired Parker and The MJQ.  I didn't know much about Ivy style at 18, but what I read about Montgomery Clift, and what I took in of his style, had a greater impact than Brando in a leather jacket or James Dean in just about anything.  Clift's 'Brooks' look appeared square but somehow cool, even to my untrained eye; and so facets of this or that begin to come together in all kinds of strange and unpredictable ways.

 

#14 2009-05-30 08:51:37

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#15 2009-05-30 09:16:58

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#16 2009-06-02 03:12:45

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#17 2009-06-02 04:19:20

Gibson Gardens
Ivy Author
Posts: 873

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

Just back from a week in Cornwall - the UK Cape Cod, and almost as difficult to get to. There is one colour in particular which is the absolute essence of Ivy : navy blue. It's just always so easy, so right, so practical, and when done well, with the right material (mainly corduroy I'd say) it can just look magnificent. I'm talking about a navy poplin Haspel sack from back in the day, a tattersall BD, an olive knitted tie and cordovan Weejuns. Or throw off your socks and swap the shirt for a navy sea island cotton Smedley. Yeh - navy with navy, very Mod Ivy, very Graham Marsh. The so-called Ivy colour scheme is of course the chosen colour palette for all 'traditional bourgeois Western dress' ('Gentleman's' clothing for want of a better term). This is an international phenomenon which I have seen carried out most effectively by, above all, my beloved Italians (the huge majority of window displays in Italian men's shops uses the traditional palette, still to this day, how marvellous is that?), but also I would argue by that very small percentage of British men who dress carefully and thoughfully in traditional clothing - visit the art and antique dealers of St.James and witness the impeccable standard of dress. As much as I love NYC it is certainly not for what it offers sartorially. Historically yes of course America is the very source of the Ivy look but they have long lost any sense of it as their style, their look. Those days are long over, and the nail in the coffin had to be the day Bass closed their Wilton factory. That was the day Ivy died in the USA. On many trips to the States I have never seen a well-dressed American - period. I have met many sussed ones who come to J.Simons to find what they want in London, but never in NYC have I spotted a guy doing the look with any panache. I feel like the flame is kept alive by nutters like us here, but on a much more significant scale by the Japanese owners of J.Press, companies like Uniqlo, and the impeccable taste and dedication to tradition and quality exhibited by the Italians, the Japanese and by smaller communities in France, the UK, Spain, and, yes, the USA.

GG

 

#18 2009-06-02 04:35:42

1966
1,966% Ivy
Posts: 2382

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#19 2009-06-02 04:38:45

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#20 2009-06-02 04:55:12

mike
Member
From: Covington, KY
Posts: 1397

Re: The Ivy colour scheme


You love him? He is hephaistion.

 

#21 2009-06-02 10:59:08

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

 

#22 2009-06-02 11:24:13

Ian Strachan's Raincoat
Member
Posts: 521

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

Above the waist, I wonder if navy works best in the foreground.  A look I tend to favour is navy cashmere v-neck and white Brooks button-down.  Navy needlecord would be good, but I would have to wear it solo.  Navy corduroy, definitely.

 

#23 2009-09-14 04:24:08

Moose Maclennan
Ivy Inspiration
From: Hernando's Hideaway
Posts: 4577

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

Just a wee bump, as the complexions lighten, the leaves redden and the skies leaden...

Took me a while to find the right trousers colour for a 'natural' shaded sports jacket, which got me thinking about this thread again. The colour is steel-grey, the colour of industrial overalls.

We'll be back to grey and navy soon enough.

 

#24 2011-07-24 08:53:59

Republican Party Reptile
Member
Posts: 1696

Re: The Ivy colour scheme

Gladly - thanks to Jesmond in part - adding camel to navy, bottle green, grey and maroon for knitwear.  The 'oldish man' aspect of it worries me not at all.

 

#25 2011-07-24 12:00:31

Oo Bop Sh'bam
Ivy Iconoclast
From: within.
Posts: 4067

Re: The Ivy colour scheme


''If I can't share my faith in Christ here, I'd just as soon not have to put up with people advocating drug use.''

 

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