http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34490&page=7

Post 169.

"As a Yankee (and NYC suburbanite) who nonetheless appreciates what has been said about the South's ongoing appreciation of sartorial etiquette, I do feel compelled to make an observation.

That observation is that while the South may be traditional and "coat-and-tied" all the way (my travels throughout the South confirm this), I'm not sure there's an abiding appreciation for what I understand as the authentically Trad look. In fact--and please don't use this as an occasion for stone-throwing--I'm fairly confident that most well-dressed Southerners I know have not a clue as to the difference between (mere) "traditional dress" and the unique look that is Trad.

Yes, Southerners may "dress up" more frequently, but I've seen many a "well dressed Southerner" wearing darted sportcoats, pleated trousers, and wide ties. While the fabric may have been sufficiently appropriate (tweed, seersucker, moleskin), the cut was not at all Trad. Someone mentioned that Aldens could be seen on the feet of W&L students. I don't doubt that, but in my experience there are only a couple of shoes in the whole Alden inventory that fit nicely under the category of American Trad...and Brooks has carried those two styles longer than anyone. Alden extended the scope of their inventory, no doubt in response to those who refused to wear nothing more than tassels and high-vamped penny's in color 8 shell cordovan.

I'm sure I'll received some criticism for this observation, but I think it should be noted that Trad, at least as I understand it, is quite narrow in scope--to the point of frustrating those unschooled in the look. Maybe this will serve to illustrate my point: A shetland sweater in heather pink is Trad; a cashmere sweater in the same shade of pink is not, nor is a shetland is brown or charcoal. A wide-waled cord in kelly, pink, or a maize yellow is Trad, but not if it's pleated. And a plain front cord in brown is, well, "just another cord." If/when one is forced to wear a staid ensemble consisting of charcoal, tan, navy, or brown, then the way of Trad is to spruce it up with vibrant grosgrain pastels (no dark leather, thanks very much). At least that's the way I've learned, but then I'm a hopelessly committed student to the New England/Mid-Atlantic Trad I learned long ago.

Trad is about VERY traditionally cut/styled clothing in VERY traditional fabrics...yet in bold, vibrant colors. If/when Trad is reduced to (mere) "traditional dress," anything can be said to fit under the category, including a lot of truly boring stuff.

For the record, I've seen the authentically Trad look (at its best) only on the Upper East Side, suburban NYC, and New England vacation spots. In fact, I'm tempted to think of the look as unique to the Mid-Atlantic and New England. Southerners may "dress up," but pleated Duckheads, a darted Corbin blazer, and a striped bowtie in a matte color do not qualify as Trad.

A longtime New York family (the Prenners) brought New England Trad to the South, for which many Southerners are thankful.

Respectfully,
Harris"


- And I know that I've posted this before, more than twice, but this was what the thick iGent bastards on AAAC bought into not knowing any better.

- So were we so wrong to rip the piss out of them?

Be fair.

Russ.