I like it, I am personally not a big fan of drape or neapolitan coats, but this is cut much longer than what I have seen from most neapolitan coats. I am very tall, 6'6", so I look very poor if a coat is short. Len Logsdail made me a suit that some might feel is too long, but I love it because I think it creates a better line for a tall man when the coat is on the longer side. Who is the tailor of the coat pictured, fabric of the greay pinstripe is very elegeant
For my taste the jacket is too long but wearable. My issue is with thos width of those lapels. They simply overpower the wearer. I think you need to be 6' 5" at least to wear those lapesl.
I think the lapels are great, but I do like a short jacket.
Much more elegant in style than the garbage that Borrelli tries to pass of as real Naples.
Lovely shoulder lines on all but the RL.
I have insisted on wide lapels on all my DBs; peak extending approximately three-quarters of the way from the lapel’s inner edge to the sleeve seam. I am of average height (5' 10") and moderate build (42 reg.) and find nothing exaggerated about such a lapel on me. The lapels on the jacket worn by the model/tailor are about perfect to my eye. Those on the dummy’s jacket look just a tad skimpy, but it may just be the angle of the photo. I also like a bit of shoulder extension, though with a soft, natural slope, and this tailor appears to have mastered that effect.
I agree with Mr. Grayson that there is enough drape, but not too much, on these jackets. Again the jacket on the gentleman seems a little more draped and better to my eye, but the difference again may be attributable to the form that the other jacket is on. I am a little surprised that I am agreeing with Mr. Grayson regarding drape, as I had taken from other posts by him that he did not like drape at all. I think I was making the wrong assumption from his stated preference for a “clean” front on his jackets.
What I find most noteworthy in this thread, so far, is the keystone button placement on Astaire’s jacket. I only recently noticed the same arrangement on the jacket in the iconic grey flannel suit photo that appears on the cover of Boyer’s Astaire book. Imagine my disappointment when I realized my grey flannel DB is not identical to Astaire’s. Indeed, all of my DB suits and my dinner jackets have the lower buttons in vertical alignment, though I almost invariably wear them with the lapel rolling through to the bottom button. I, therefore, have nothing against the keystone pattern; but it was horribly abused on all those aircraft carrier shouldered, low gorge DBs of the 1980s.
Finally, while I prefer little or no belly on DB lapels, I don’t mind the occasional deviation in that regard, as on Agnelli’s suit above. I’ve written elsewhere about my love/hate relationship with my ancient navy serge blazer with its wide, full bellied lapels and keystone button arrangement. Moderation in all things, even moderation.
I like the suit, uppercase - may I ask who made it?
This is a suit made by Anderson & Sheppard and is worn my one of their staff, photographed in their London shop.
The Italians are a bit more exuberant when it comes to DB lapels but I think that even the pictured AS lapels makes quite a statement.
I recently saw a Anderson and Sheppard suit up close. It was wearable but not much more.
Marc, I attribute my fluctuating sentiments to my schizophrenic personality, nothing more.....!
My doctor is currently discussing this with me and putting me back on my Italian meds....
FNB, interesting. Please elaborate on your views of AS shortcomings.
Isn't Steven Hitchcock trained in this AS style?
If the A&S suit uppercase posted is worth only $700, I'd love to see what a $3000 suit really look like.
The gorge on the DB suit in the original picture on this thread is too high-compare with the Astaire lapels in "The Bandwagon" photo above (From the movie still).
FNB, I understand where you're coming from.....people often know what they like and what they don't and there's often no use dissecting what doesn't work for you.
Each school, SR and Italian, has its loyal patrons and most often they don't cross over between styles.
A beautiful, successful suit has to grab you emotionally, has to resonate somewhere, and if a style doesn't, well, it just doesn't.
Take a look at Solito's coat sleeves in the top picture of this thread - no shirt cuffs showing.
Thinking back, I seem to recall that the Neapolitans/Italians wear their coat sleeves a touch longer than the English - closer to the length of a shirt cuff - to the wrist bone. And particularly so on sports coats.
Does that tally with your experience?
Is there a difference in coat sleeve length between Italy and SR or is this just a peculiarity of Solito's coat?
Sig. Solito's coat looks well fitted. With shirt sleeves of the right length (or not clinging to the inner sleeves for some reason) I think he could perfectly have 1,5 cm of linen showing. Personally though I'd had the fronts overlap slightly more.
The A&S coat doesn't appear to be properly fitted over the shoulders. Note how there's a hollow in the front part of the shoulders, over the clavicle. You can tell because the cloth is convex. A suit's shoulder and back neck are the only parts of the garment that should literally stick to the body. Ideally, the cloth over the front part of the wearer's shoulder (flesh-poor region), should lie slightly concave. Also notice the fold directly under the top of the right sleevehead. The shoulders are cut slightly too wide. In the styling department, my opinion is the fronts of double breasted jackets should overlap with authority and hug the body; in the picture I see a compromise between single breasted and DB. Personally I'd be happy with either but not with a hybrid.
I too think that the blazer Solito is wearing looks super.
That is how a blazer should be done, Italian style.
Also, choice of buttons makes this blazer much more versatile than metal buttons.
AS is a whole different animal. I think that they would tell you that, with regard to the photo above, "that is how we like it".
Rather than flaws in the AS, that is how they choose to cut their coats. The shoulder seams extends quite a bit off the deltoid, wide, and the chest is cut large, almost puffed if viewed at an angle. There's alot of "play" in the chest area; on me, AS adds quite a few extra inches of cloth to the chest than what a typical Italian tailor would.
I think an Italian tailor would say that the AS is cut and fitted much too large. To me, the AS is a bit rumpled, a bit louche, a bit big, but an eminently beautiful silhouette if a bit idiosyncratic.
And with all of that extra drape in the AS shoulder/chest, you will wear your coat in great comfort.
What saves the coat from being a sack, is that there is a fair amount of waist suppression although the front quarters are perhaps cut a bit closed and the overall length is a bit long. The AS projects a silhouette of bigger shoulders/chest and reasonably slim torso; the broad shoulders don't become excessive because the shoulders don't project outwards, but rather slope down around the shoulders - again a look which some find unusual or unattractive.
Both what Solito wears and the AS are exemplary styles. The Solito is easily appreciated and understood; clearly beautiful even if you might want the buttons higher. Look at that nice drape in his chest, which flows , rather than 'puffs' because of the minimal chest canvas.
But if you can get your mind around the AS, it has its own appeal.