The worst example I've come across was a Cecil Gee linen suit: padded to excess, and for what purpose?  I don't object to the bare minimum in an overcoat, but padding in a jacket shoulder reminds me too forcefully of power dressed women circa 1980.  Didn't some brave soul on the forum perform surgery on a Madras jacket?  This is where those Keydge slack jackets, in spite of their button spacing, score highly IMO.  They look ever so slightly odd and therefore attractive to the Ivy stylist, whose fundamental perceptions often differ so radically from the mainstream.

Really the amount of shoulder padding needed is determined by the shape of one's shoulders, round and sloping obviously needs more padding than a straight angular shoulder.

Button stance is another detail that has varied on sack jackets over the years. In my experience the 1960's slimmer lapelled jackets have the highest stance and widest button placement, the 1980s Jos. A. Bank the lowest and closest.

It appears the only real constant in the sack jacket is the lack of darts.

Last edited by Chris_H (2009-07-24 12:04:27)

Heretical though it may appear, I really don't object too violently to darts.  I paid about £30 for an updated Brooks - darted - and I like it.  That's really all that matters.

Going back to Press, I snagged a deadstock Press tan poplin suit on ebay last summer. It wasn't from the current line as it had lapped seams (their current offering doesn't seem to) but the material was very superior indeed to that used in the recent Brooks equivalents: a lovely 100% polished cotton. The shoulders were horrendous, however: boxy, bulky, long and stiff.

A year down the line it hadn't had much wear so I took it to a sympathetic alterations tailor along with a jacket whose shoulder I liked for him to copy and must say I'm highly pleased with the results. He took the shoulders in by over an inch and changed the angle of the shoulder seam away from the perpendicular to a gentle sweep from collar to sleeve and relined with his lightest pad. All for £30 in London's dismal West End.

I kept the model tag, which reads:

BRANNOCH
100% COTTON
XXX-JP1_HBI-JPS
708 S97

I wonder if that last line means Summer '97?

In summary then, nice materials, horrible shoulder. Pretty easily rectifiable.

It was Paul Kitsaros in Cleveland Street. I've never had a problem with their work so far.

Interesting that the original post is now over 10 years old.
I wonder what Jim would of thought of Press today. Yes they did go a bit staid but they have now embraced their Ivy roots.
The collection with Todd Synder is fresh although maybe not of interest to everyone who posts here.
Personally I currently love their sports shirts, flap pocket oxfords, shaggy dogs, knit ties and accessories.

I don't know.  Once Jimbo had written something off it tended to stay written off.  He once posted about Ian Strachan having written off (I'm fairly sure) Gap.  That was probably thirty-plus years ago.  Returning from the outer darkness?  Well, he was convinced that it was over for many more Former Great Names than Press.  Had he lived, he might have become disillusioned about Chiltern Street, much as he liked John and Paul.  He would not have appreciated the ongoing 'mod' affiliations.  And rightly so: they're all wrong.  I think he might have approved of Vetra and Paraboot still, however.  And I think, Over There, he remained fond of O'Connell's and The Andover Shop.

LOL!  Very handy for carrying your roll in, though.