A PM from one of the Good Guys -
"I am 20, and have never owned a suit. Ideally I want to get a suit which I can wear for office/interview occasions when need be (looking notably cooler/natural than the typical next high street black suit worker), but also out for nights out.
Over the last 6 months I have really started to love the look of 3 roll 2 'ivy' jackets, rather than the less subtle mohair 'mod' type suit (I hate describing it as such, but I'm sure you know what I mean). I came across this photo of a J Press advert in the boom years thread, and to me looks super cool. Great style, but subtle, cool and natural:
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/1378/presslife4.jpg
Therefore, I was hoping you might have some advice for me in getting a first suit, where would be best to go etc? I suppose for a first suit a navy ish blue would be most suitable (with more interesting cloth over forthcoming years I hope). I am a slim but tall guy, I like slim fitting ish cut but less fitted than an italian 'mod' type cut (slimmish leg opening but classic slim fit rather than tapered, terribly worded but I hope you know what I'm getting at).
I was going to look towards London, and I've got a couple of months ideally to get something with maybe £400 or so to spend."
I'd love us to be able to help this Cat. He is our future after all.
Thanks -
Jim
Also - Some American brogues advice please for the same Cat.
He wants in, so why not help him in?
Thanks -
Get me some measurements and I'll hunt for him while I'm looking for myself...
Some good 'consignment vintage' shops I frequent here in San Francisco charge well under his range and have good stuff.
Last edited by Long_Playing (2009-07-28 13:17:44)
Bless you -
The Kid is Alright.
He's worth helping.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmowtt9vhLY
That's very kind long_playing. Really want to be able to try it rather than shipped across the ocean, as it's my first suit, but it's much appreciated.
And Russell_Street thanks for the kind words also.
Can't really add too much more to the top post for the time being, but any help is gratefully received.
£400? Might be a bit tight, Colin. I've bought my suits sight unseen (risky to be sure), and had only about a 50% success rate. It's hard. One longs for a Bilgorri to come along and start doing things the way we want it rather than the way a sussed mod might want it.
Yeah I could probably stretch to the £500 mark, OTP. I was hoping London might have some offerings...
George of Harringey?
He's made sacks for someone on here, hasn't he?
At least Chris_H, if not others.
When Colin & I were PM-ing I mentioned G. first (I think).
Was the vintage/used market an option?
Probably a long shot but it might be worth to drop Jason a line, just to investigate :
http://www.thickasthievesla.com/
Vintage/used was also floated.
The deal is - as Chens/BoO so rightly says - Where do you buy new RTW Ivy now for that kind of price?
- J. Press, I guess, & then get a nice tailor to re-cut it for you to correct their look.
Or take a punt with O'Connell's?
Brooks is over just now, JS has some lovely natural shouldered stuff, but some suits have darts - Is that a deal breaker?
Beyond that it's Vintage or Bespoke/MTM.
Last edited by Russell_Street (2009-07-29 10:39:05)
How 'bout some Brogues for Colin too?
US style -
... Loake Royals are an easy way in in every respect:
http://www.solelyshoes.com/acatalog/royalbrogue_lge.jpg
http://www.taraxa.jp/data/taraxa/_/70726f647563742f633731623165356434662e6a70670033303000.png
Prices vary -
http://www.shoesonline4u.co.uk/loakes/loake-shoes-royal-2054719-371373-.php
Silly question:
Hairy McNairy's new range for Bass is made in England.
Loake have recently popped out a US style loafer, the 'Princeton'.
Any link?
Dunno, but a chum mentioned it to me last week.
Thoughts?
RS, amongst others input is greatly received.
I'd be interested to see what J Simons has in the line of suits. It's preferable as I can try on/see it there and then (I've had issues with sizing and what not ordering online, so for a first suit it can't really be an option, sadly [although, I did enjoy looking at Jason's suits, look nice, but in this instance not an option). Reckon JS will have something at my pricepoint/in the style I'm after/in my size? I would imagine he would be of great great help.
I think a George of Haringey suit with material (as well as some brogues) is probably a bit steep for time being (I am a student at university at the moment so sadly don't have too much to spend)
As aforementioned, the above picture is a beautiful suit jacket, undeniably cool yet totally unforced and natural.
O'Connell's has suits on sale right now, a couple for US $476. Email Ethan and he will take care of you.
Colin if budget's an issue and you're willing to take a punt I'd keep an eye on ebay for Florsheims. Check sizing differences
Depends what kind of mood they're in. As you know full well, Jimmy.
You not in bed yet?
I think your wife sounds lovely, btw.
I'm hoping to speak to mine tomorrow... at some point...
Just as an aside, I had a few sizing problems ordering used/vintage suits and jackets until I started wearing sack jackets. Once you know the way they fit for a certain era, all you really need is shoulder, chest and length measurements (if that: I sometimes think that shoulder width alone is at least 90% of the equation for sack jackets).
I have a low limit on vintage suits and jackets to minimize disappointment, but out of over a dozen sack suits/jackets, only one was way off the mark (and only then because I wanted to size up for a chunky sweater), and one was a little trim (my first) but still wearable.
5 out of the 12 (almost all Brooks) fitted without any further alteration, 2 with just sleeve shortening, 5 with sleeve and jacket shortening. Coat shortening was neither drastic nor expensive.
It's been a enjoyable and worthwhile learning curve, and the whole thing is still well under the abovementioned budget for one first suit.