So the Andover Shop has closed on Clarendon Street in Boston?
... Or is that a typo on their latest catalogue?
I fear the former.
Why? WHY?
Their shoulder line is better than ever - Just look at page 13 or 17!
Their Shetlands are superlative - Page 27 could make a true Trad weep!!
Their BDs are (hopefully) da business - Page 22 brings back a lovely Apricot... Remember the old Brooks Peach after a few washes?
And check those new BDs on page 8 (S.M.L. etc, alas), 'Born to Fade' through some clever pigment dye. 'Wash down' is the lovely way they phrase it.
Show me the bastard who shops at RL while The Andover are closing shops and I'll kick his arse from here to next Monday week.
Dig deep brothers, you'll be sorry if you lose them.
Miles.
I wish they would send the catalog out before I spend my fall budget. Haven't gotten one yet. Have they lost my address? Is there a tan herringbone in there by any chance?
Sadly not, Sir.
Two nice Greys and an Olive Herringbone, then a number of wonderful checks as usual.
Now if The Andover did a line of basics, THAT could be quite something...
But then again it's never been a 'basics' sort of company.
Odd that I have a catalogue in England before you. Worth chasing them up?
Miles.
Just thinking out loud -
Lots of talk of Brooks, Silver, RL, & J.Crew these days...
J. Press gets due and deserved attention also I've noticed...
O'Connells & Eljos even get very worthy mentions...
... But Andover & Cable Car get overlooked a bit it seems to me.
Good companies with good products and enough history behind them to keep anyone happy, but they don't have the MB profile that they should.
Why 'zat 'zen?
Curious - Miles.
These would be my guesses:
1) Andover's feature model is 2 button undarted. This makes it marginal to the online trad community. 3 button is definitely available but requires special order in most cases.
2) Kind of expensive for tweed jacket. Online trads tend to balk at spending $800 on a tweed.
3) Andover falls off the radar in summer. Their online/catalog offerings are heavily geared toward fall/winter. A summer catalog would help I think.
4) Jacket patterns tend to be a little "fashion foward" for the online trad community.
5) Shirts also tend to be a little expensive.
I believe that Andover has a good market though. I believe the problem lies mostly with the limited pallet of what I keep calling "online trads".
Smart guesses & I agree with all, however...
1) Get your own man to punch in the 3rd button hole? Not at all expensive.
2) Yeah. Then again it will last & last & last being Tweed... Plus most of the Tweeds are unique.
3) Absolutely.
4) The Cambridge & Boston shops used to be much more sober than the catalogue (Never visited Andover in Andover so can't comment). They had all the colourful stuff plus 'quieter' items. I'm sure Andover still do more than we see in the catalogues.
5) My long awaited Oxfords were $75. Not too bad. Other shirts push the $99 mark so fair comment tho'.
Online Trad could & should be bigger than it is. It's still early days, but we started from a position of defining the style very narrowly without really looking at the history of the style too much. I'm a big fan of elitism, but the elitism could have kicked in later, To launch 'Trad' we should have invited everybody to the party, THEN introduced the ideas of 'Authentic Trad', 'Trad influenced', 'Trad on a Shoestring' etc. ALL are valid.
We suffered a little from too many faux-Brahmins in the early days telling the world what was and wasn't Trad, IMVHO.
I think that's all over now.
Trad can be open to anyone who likes the style and then within the look we can start playing 'pyramids' if we wish just for fun. Best BD, Best Penny Loafer etc. "Best" is so relative anyway... A Weejun has it's place along with Alden, and Southwick and Pressclusive are equally at home together.
As ever, just my POV.
Miles.
I think LongWing's about right.
I would buy more Andover if it didn't cost $800 to pick up a jacket. Now, maybe I have not thoroughly researched enough and Andover jackets are better quality...but I've never heard anyone say so. Basically the same goes for Cable Car, and Cable Car's on the opposite coast. I think if I lived in CA I would be more a Brooks-Cable than a Brooks-Press man. But since I can actually drive to Brooks, Press, or Andover within 2 hours (sans traffic jam) what's the point.
I do buy things from Andover but they are usually sweaters and scarves.
Also, no objection to 2-button sack jackets, have a few in the closet, but it's just hard to justify the huge expense for Andover product.
If I ever have the inclination to drop $1000 on a field coat I'd love last years charcoal tweed one at Andover. And if Cable Car ever sold that slate blue suit I keep looking for, or began producing club collar shirts en masse, well, they might get my business too
Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-03 10:31:16)
I recently bought some trousers and sweaters from Andover. They were already reasonably priced, but they had a very early fall sale of last year's items to make room for this year's. I like the shetlands a lot. I have read that the Press Shaggy Dog runs kind of small so I'll stick with andover going forward ( though I don't need much variety with these). The trousers were from Hertling/Executive Trouser . I have some summer trousers from this manufacturer from Press. These, a flannel and a calvary twill, however were not lined as the Press summer trousers were. I don't know if they build different trouser for Press and Andover or if there is some reason you line summer trousers but not winter. The Press price is generally higher for these, so I guess Press gets theirs lined.
I have been on the lookout for a good peach oxford so I'm looking forward to seeing their offering. I would also be tempted if they are once again carrying the pink stripe broadcloth. And if someone would please once again offer a yellow striped ocbd that would be great too.
A tradish neighbor of mine, from Boston and a graduate of Tufts, asked me the other day if I was a Phillips Acadamy allum. I told him that I was not. Turns out he had seen a box with Andover Shop tape all over it sticking out of my recycling bin. We discussed the Andover shop for a while. I don't think I ever satified his curiosity over how a southern boy living in the southwest ever became a customer of the Andover Shop.
Andover offers a variety of jackets -- 2 and 3/2 -- with different vents and some with darts (they look like the Southwick Dorset model). Also -- there are less expensive jackets and shirts -- but you've got to go the store. After all, they do have a market (however modest) with the undergrads. I believe it's still possible to find jackets at Andover that will fit a more modest budget.
To actually go to the store is the best bet. Plus you get to take advantage of their tailoring which is very very good.
I'll second that.
Andover gets overlooked too much IMHO.