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#1 2006-10-08 03:43:15

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

The Truth about 'Trad'.

The term 'Trad' is Japanese.
In fact the term is imprecise, both American and English clothing is called 'Trad' in Japan.
'Ivy' is the more correct term for the American style in Japan, as it is along with 'Ivy League' all over Europe.
The term 'Trad' spread from Japan to America (NOT the other way around) probably by somebody running internet searches on the word 'Preppie' which would then via the many Japanese Prep sites lead you very quickly on to the word 'Trad'.

The social snobbery grafted onto 'Trad' is purely an American Internet MB phenomenon. It does not exist in Japan or Europe and is the work of the person who originally brought the term to the attention of the MBs. It reflects their own personal take on the look and has no historical validity either in the States or abroard. Others joined in with this view on the style either through a basic lack of historical knowledge or simply through sharing the social aspirations of the original poster. It was a very seductive fantasy for some.

'Trad' as we know it on the MBs is a development of 'Preppy'. It is Ivy influenced, but does not come to us from the pure TNSIL source. Hence the confused aspects of what is and isn't 'Trad'. 'Southen Trad' for example may well be 'Trad', but little of it is Ivy.

Ivy in Japan begins around 1948 in a very similar way to which it begins across Europe at a similar time. It is a cultural footprint left by the GIs post WWII. Also in Japan it initially goes hand in hand with Jazz - Especially Charlie Parker's 1947 recordings.
Pre-WW II Western clothing worn in Japan was all English Trad style.

Any points in need of clarification please ask. This is only a first draft.

Always busy on your behalf -

Miles.

Edit: All the above is on Japanese websites. I got extra confirmation from 'IvyGuy' from just outside Tokyo - To him many thanks.

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-08 03:49:23)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#2 2006-10-08 03:58:09

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Ah Miles, so it ends not with a bang but merely a whimper....

The Trad, was something originally ours, interpreted through a foreign language, and then given back to us?
Stripped of its complexity and hardened into a creed.    Perhaps the greatest Troll ever, then.  A sub-forum, millions of devout.  I doff me cap (A Lock from Brooks natch...) to it all.....The Second Greatest Story Ever Told....

Still, I don't know if it were before or after the genesis that Ken Pollock posted on TNSIL (his coinage I believe and still a good one)....


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#3 2006-10-08 04:55:08

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I say leave Trad to those who are that way inclined. It's a fantasy, but a harmless one providing you know the truth. Let the dreamers dream their dreams etc.

TNSIL is correct in America. Ivy is its offshoot abroad. Preppy is the younger son.

Life can now get back to normal... wink

Edit: The only other 'correct' term is the long-lost "Le style JFK"... as far as I know so far!

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-08 04:57:48)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#4 2006-10-08 14:15:07

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I'm keen to move on now -

One last point is, and this is a hypothetical,  what do you do if you run an internet message board which contains a forum which is based on a troll?

I'm not sure that this situation has ever come up before.

We live in interesting times, my friends.

Wish FNB was as cutting edge as all these other 'experimental' forums... All there is around here is sound sartorial knowledge... It's OK if you just like clothes, but where is the 'Alice in Wonderland' aspect that other forums have? We must seem a little dull compared to the others...


My name is Miles Away.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#5 2006-10-09 05:50:33

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Bump!

Read 'em & weep...

Rise up against the shackles imposed by the false one -

Claim ye back ye Ivy.

To the dust with 'Trad'.

Ivy for everyone!

*Ahem (Again)*

Miles.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#6 2006-10-09 08:20:25

familyman
Member
Posts: 30

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I'm finding that the overseas versions of trad are much more interesting to me. Less business and more fun. They're just clothes after all, might as well have fun with them. (Even if I still toe the hard line in other 'trad' worlds)

 

#7 2006-10-09 08:40:29

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#8 2006-10-09 08:56:52

familyman
Member
Posts: 30

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

So trad in the US is fake but TNSIL is real? Ok, you can argue definitions all you want. I think there are three real groups though.
1. The guys who really were raised on this stuff and wouldn't discuss it on a message board if you paid them too.
2. Those that aspire to be in the first group and somehow think the clothes will get them there. If it looks like a duck and talks like a duck.....but do the real ducks think it's a duck? These guys get far too serious about the social implications of thier clothes on message boards. They need to smoke something to relax. A pipe perhaps?
3. Those that like the clothes just because they like the clothes. These guys will clash with group two if they meet on a message board. Clothes are fun, if it wasn't TNSIL then in would be something else but it would still be fun.

 

#9 2006-10-09 09:50:41

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#10 2006-10-09 10:11:14

familyman
Member
Posts: 30

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

The corruption of the Japaneese term is a bit of a mystery. Maybe it's easier to understand than TNSIL?
The re-branding on the other hand make perfect sense. It's needed for group #2 to exist. If they didn't find it snobby and socially climbing then what would be the use in copying it? These people didn't become snobs because of the clothes. The were class climbing snobs before the clothes, they just use the clothes as a tool. No different than a BMW is used in the US now. Maybe a bit more subtle than a BMW, but the same idea. Once you've got your giant house and your expensive car how do you tell the people around you that you're better than them? Or even worse, what if these people don't know anything about your house and car? How are they to know? Trad will do the trick, or so it seems in this online world.

 

#11 2006-10-09 10:29:35

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Your analysis continues to be spot-on, familyman.

I wonder what these funny people think Joe-Public used to wear in the 50s/60s when Ivy was at its peak?

EVERYBODY used to wear Ivy of various degrees of quality & price back in the day. It was THE American style.

Since the style fell from grace only die-hards and those of a conservative (with a small 'c') nature stuck with it... Our silly social climbers must be seeing them and thinking that this was always the case...

Oh how I wish they could have picked on another style to ruin with their posturing!

'Trad' is an internet construct, though - OPH & thread-theft gave its originator his role of expert. Such nonsense.

Better an authentic 'prole' than a phoney Trad!

Time it all went. Back to Ivy and honesty.

M.

Edit: Surely the rich now wear Italian? The use of Ivy to grant class is PURE RL.

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-09 10:32:17)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#12 2006-10-09 10:37:22

familyman
Member
Posts: 30

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Serious question Miles, would it bother you as much if the social roles were reversed? If the common man re-adopted TNSIL thus driving social climbers from the style in search of another style to differentiate themselves?

 

#13 2006-10-09 11:01:17

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#14 2006-10-09 14:19:41

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I'm an easy-going Joe.
No axe to grind.
Happy-go-lucky sums me up well... But...

Bring me the 'Godfather of Trad' to defend his trolling.

Or bring me any other Plastic-Brahmin to fight their corner.

The old 'Silent Treatment' that allowed the Godfather to get away with murder doesn't wash with me - If I say something and I'm not contradicted then what I say stands.

Welcome to London.

And a brand new 'Trad'.

M.

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-09 14:21:16)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#15 2006-10-09 14:40:04

Tuck
New member
Posts: 2

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Miles, I definately agree with all  that you are saying.  I had never heard of "trad" prior to MB's.  The style I liked and grew up seeing around me was called Ivy.  The Godfather seems to be underground at the moment, have not seen him around anywhere for some time.


"It's better to remain silent and thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt." A. Lincoln

 

#16 2006-10-09 18:27:51

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I wish we had Tom22 and Intrepid around.

I distinctly remember Intrepid and the Godfather setting up a meeting at some restuarant/club/place in Princeton, where he claimed to play squash.  If they actually met, it would be interesting to see what Intrepid took from the situation.

Tom22 also mentioned a "guy" who "kept showing up" when he was in Stonington.

You (H and M) seem to believe the Godfather was a kid.

From Tom and Intrepid I got the impression of an actual adult, legit or not.

I have no bone to pick with that particular individual and if he was lying the whole time, which now seems more and more likely the longer he remains silent, I thought many of the threads he started were interesting, and we had many of the same tastes, even if he made his up.

But if Tom or Intrepid actually met him, I think it would have been nice to hear their impressions of this person.


Anyway, on the whole Miles, I really do agree with you about the terminology.

You call it "Ivy," I have usually known it as "preppy" or "Ivy League".

Same kettle of fish.

I'd like to clarify something else...on other occasions I have labeled certain things as "not trad".  What I mean when I see those is not that I see myself in some lofty position acting as a social arbiter, saying they are some class thing.  More I have meant that either a)the thing is not part of the traditional Ivy League look (at least as far as I know, I welcome being called on it when I make an error though!), even though it may be a traditionally offered item by many clothiers  or b) that wearing the thing obviously puts the wearer in a position of being a person who is wearing it trying to buy into the RL image that "trad" is some socially exclusive style or c) the thing is so obviously garish that nobody with Ivy League clothing tastes, whether they be Brahmins or schoolteachers, would consider wearing it

You don't have to be what the RL catalog characterizes as "somebody" to love or dress Ivy League
I DO think that if you want to dress on the preppy side, however, you should probably learn appropriate and inappropriate fora to wear GTH clothing.  This should be instinctive not by birth or breeding but by commons sense the fact that it's obvious those things should be worn in the summer, near, one would think, water, and not, say, in October to a Federal Income Tax class (as one of my classmates chose earlier this afternoon), or say, to a professional office...it doesn't make you look rich, it makes you look like a moron.

I don't know what else to say, but I'll be happy to get back into calling what I call Ivy League everywhere but this board "Ivy League" again

Last edited by Coolidge (2006-10-09 18:28:53)

 

#17 2006-10-09 18:42:27

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

 

#18 2006-10-09 19:19:37

Tuck
New member
Posts: 2

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Intrepid, Tom, miss seeing those guys around.  I also miss JMorgan32 as well...I know he got into it on more than one occassion with the GFofTrad.


"It's better to remain silent and thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt." A. Lincoln

 

#19 2006-10-09 21:43:50

Coolidge
Member
Posts: 1192

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Last edited by Coolidge (2006-10-09 21:51:40)

 

#20 2006-10-09 21:59:17

familyman
Member
Posts: 30

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Good to read all of this.
Coolidge wrote a bit above about declaring things trad or non trad. I do this elsewhere as well and I do it for what I think is good reason. I may not have grown up with the style but I think I've come to an understanding of what it is and what it's general elements are (and I fully expect Coolidge to call my out if I'm wrong, I'd appreciate it) What I see elsewhere is people posting very nice clothing and hoping that everyone will call it trad simply because it's nice clothing. Some of it is way way out there with pleats and darts and big poofy bright pocket squares and other garish things. These things aren't bad, but they're not in the ivy tradition. I wonder if they're in any tradition to tell you the truth. The point is that for some reason people desperately want their favorite clothes to be held under the umbrella of trad as they see it. They seem to have some need to be included in the club and make sure that what they wear is always in the club so that the cool kids won't kick them out of the club. There seems to be a real fear on the MB's of openly saying that something isn't in the ivy tradition. I don't know if it's because it's poorly understood or if everyone is so afraid of being told they're not trad that they say that everyone is trad and get a good circle pat on the back going so they all feel good and nobody gets their feelings hurt. Somebody needs to stand up now and again and throw down and say no. Not enough of that going around lately as some good members have left.
Dammit, I'm rambling and likely fairly incoherent. It's late and I have to finish sewing two more horns on a corduoroy stegasaurus before I go to bed. Goodnight all.

 

#21 2006-10-10 01:10:04

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

I agree with all of the above.
If anybody wants to play the game of 'Tradder than thou' then familyman is ten times the Trad the Godfather was.
Purely because he is legit and loves the style for itself.
No points to prove, no baggage dragged along to the MBs, just someone who loves Ivy League clothes.

We are all on a learning curve with everything in life and we all start with different degrees of knowledge. There is no one expert on any subject really. Misinformation about the Ivy League style has been damaging to us - We have lost many good posters on the subject I suspect simply because they have been put off by what 'Trad' descended into, 'Keeping the proles at bay' etc.

The Godfather must be thanked for generating interest and for popularising the look. His information was gathered from all the best sources. All the guy ever had to do was to say 'This is what I know', 'This is what I've found out' just like the rest of us do. Why he had to spin his information into a fable about the class system is his business. It had no place on a clothing MB.

Certainly there are things which are Ivy League in style and things which are not. I personally do not believe that 'Southern Trad' is Ivy. Its elements are outside the cannon of the style. 'Trad' itself was a RL style fantasy, and Southern Trad seems to be even more of a perversion of Ivy.

I'm not really as fired-up about this as I try to sound. Ivy is older and will last longer than 'Trad'. What always bothered me from day one and my first posts on the subject was that something which I saw as being unique in its understated beauty was being made vulgar and crass by people who obviously didn't really care about the style at all, they were just using it for their own self aggrandisement.

Let's get back to Ivy style - It still leaves us with a lot to play with and to explore - Drop the social class fantasy and most of the 'Trad' elements still stand. Cars and dogs CAN go with the look if you are so inclined - Just say that a Woody Wagon (or whatever) is the kind of car that goes well with the Ivy style and leave it at that. No need to go on to say that you'd never see a prole behind the wheel of one.

Just my 2c.

Miles.

Last edited by Miles Away (2006-10-10 01:36:57)


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#22 2006-10-10 06:36:03

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2006-10-10 06:45:06

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

Don't know about epitaphs, but the time has certainly come to celebrate him.
The boy wasn't dumb.
His genius was hitting on just what people wanted & giving it to them. He used any source of info to do that, but the spin was all his.
I hope he works in Sales.

Wherever you are, Sir, we enjoyed it. Come back and talk to us anytime. Nobody wants to unmask you - Just come back & share your enthusiasm for the Ivy League style.

Everybody has a place. Ivy for everyone!

David


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#24 2006-10-10 06:50:00

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.

 

#25 2006-10-10 06:55:15

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: The Truth about 'Trad'.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

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