I'd recommend a 13'' rise if you are anything like me for size, 12'' sits too low for the 'ivy' look, keep to 9'' on the knee, and try and sneak the cuff in just under 8'', and with any luck you should get there. You might find the seat in pakeman generous, and you might want to keep to 8'' on the cuff just to reflect how they fit high up the leg and seat. But try them on see how you go.
Sorry scrap that, I meant 12'5 on the rise, I was going from memory, just measured you want 12.5'', 13 will give you the age'd look. I think the Pakeman size 40'' sit at just over 12'', to give you some idea a 519 bedford has a drop of 12'' on a 36'' waist, so your playing inside classic proportions.
The main difference is sitting under the navel, than over the top, I know it's not much, I quite like to have the rise just about cover the last button on a shirt placket. I've been using the Makers as a standard for that.
Last edited by One For Bop (2012-08-18 03:56:51)
I feel utterly naked if my waistband falls below my navel... One reason I hate jeans. On a casual shirt, I like to be able to see only 4 closed shirt buttons from my belt up, that is, if I have the collar button undone. Only then do I know the rise is just right. Oh, and if my nuts aren't being sliced down the middle.
Last edited by Worried Man (2012-08-18 09:04:34)
It's the rise more than anything that gives the look a real vintage feel. Worried Man, you got it. The Woolster, he got it too.
Do you wear exclusively vintage for 'the look' WM? Or do you know any modern brand that cuts the mustard?
There's just no way I can wear pants upto my naval. 10-11 suits me best, cuff can be varied 7.5-8.25. Slim but not too tight.
I'm wearing some Bombay bloomers shorts tonight ( WW2 Vintage).
They're just kissing my navel.
^ Lucky pants they are.
Liam,
Vintage is definitely easier to find a good rise, but it's a whole other story as they usually have pleats, cuffed hems, moth holes, not to mention I'm quite slim so rarely do they come close to fitting. It's hard to find the pair that has it all, and even then I'm looking at plenty of alterations. For daily use I like the Brooks "Clark Fit" and the Lands End "Tailored Fit." Lands End "Traditional Fit" have good height, but they sure are saggy on my arse. They work with a little finagling. With sales you can pick the stuff up super cheap. The LE wools and flannels are ok too. Lightweight quality for sure, but reasonably priced, especially if you need to do some experimenting with alterations.
Soggy's worn lower
And looked better in them.
It’s hot, hot, hot, just returned from lovely late lunch of spaghetti alle vongole
Washed down with a couple of glasses of vino, heaven.
Gant turquoise linen short sleeve untucked, maybe not for purists but no branding
Nice collar roll and feels right on a day like this.
Uniqlo Khakis
No Belt, No Socks, No break
Burgundy Bass Weejuns.
Sounds right up my street, Armchaired.
All of it Armchaired! Sounds like the perfect Sunday, to me.
Plain white Brooks
Camel Paine slipover
Levis chinos
Italian dessies