I'd recommend a 13'' rise if you are anything like me for size, 12'' sits too low for the 'ivy' look, keep to 9'' on the knee, and try and sneak the cuff in just under 8'', and with any luck you should get there. You might find the seat in pakeman generous, and you might want to keep to 8'' on the cuff just to reflect how they fit high up the leg and seat. But try them on see how you go.

One For Bop wrote:

Sorry scrap that, I meant 12'5 on the rise, I was going from memory, just measured you want 12.5'', 13 will give you the age'd look. I think the Pakeman size 40'' sit at just over 12'', to give you some idea a 519 bedford has a drop of 12'' on a 36'' waist, so your playing inside classic proportions.

Right oh Bop, any thigh measurement?

Oo Bop Sh'bam wrote:

The rise is high enough on what i got fxh, the bit that bothers me is cutting a line across the ankle bone with out that spare inch flapping about i think i'm nearly there, i did document it with some photo, i'll post them over to you and say what was done, see what you think

Fly over here for a week and I'll sort you out in person.

One For Bop wrote:

Sorry scrap that, I meant 12'5 on the rise, I was going from memory, just measured you want 12.5'', 13 will give you the age'd look. I think the Pakeman size 40'' sit at just over 12'', to give you some idea a 519 bedford has a drop of 12'' on a 36'' waist, so your playing inside classic proportions.

Superb nerdish attention to detail Bop, what this forum's all about !  But in truth I can't see that 0.5" is going to make that much difference, the reality is that clothes move around on your body. No one's going to notice a small difference in the rise or length if you are walking along or sitting down. But then when you're striking a pose in the middle of the room at some trendy hang out and chicks are checking out the size of your rise .............

One For Bop wrote:

Beautiful ratios Woof, what was the rise on those Libertos again?

12.75" - not 13" or 12.5"- 12.75" 

woofboxer wrote:

Superb nerdish attention to detail Bop, what this forum's all about !  But in truth I can't see that 0.5" is going to make that much difference, the reality is that clothes move around on your body. No one's going to notice a small difference in the rise or length if you are walking along or sitting down. But then when you're striking a pose in the middle of the room at some trendy hang out and chicks are checking out the size of your rise .............

True - half an inch doesn't make much difference in most places - or so all the women tell me.

But my firm opinion, based on years of  observation, is that in cuff opening 1/2 an inch can make or break. It does depend on shoes length and shape though.

It's the rise more than anything that gives the look a real vintage feel. Worried Man, you got it. The Woolster, he got it too.

Do you wear exclusively vintage for 'the look' WM? Or do you know any modern brand that cuts the mustard?

I'm wearing some Bombay bloomers shorts tonight ( WW2 Vintage).

They're just kissing my navel.

fxh wrote:

4F Hepcat wrote:

^The Nettletons are good, but not as good as vintage Florsheims. The rain damaged ones still need to go to an upmarket shoe cobbler, for which the local one cannot be trusted, I am thinking of the Royal Treatment in Amsterdam. The only question is time, or posting!

You still haven't posted pics of that shirt you cut through with a Stanley knife. Post pics of sodden shoes too. Anything else? hehe

Oh yee of little faith! The mother-in-law has sewn the damage on the shirt, which means it will be suitable worn under a jumper, so the terminal damage was not as final as I initially concluded.

I will post photos soon along with some 17" shirts and 36" chinos I intend to sell, but today I have a date with the lawn mower and the Delft jazz festival this afternoon. The rest will be with beer!

Soggy's worn lower

It’s hot, hot, hot, just returned from lovely late lunch of spaghetti alle vongole

Washed down with a couple of glasses of vino, heaven.



Gant turquoise linen short sleeve untucked, maybe not for purists but no branding

Nice collar roll and feels right on a day like this.

Uniqlo Khakis

No Belt, No Socks, No break

Burgundy Bass Weejuns.

Liam Mac wrote:

Sounds right up my street, Armchaired.

Thanks Liam is that the Clobber or the spaghetti ? lol

Going over session notes for studio tracks.  Me in foreground with white polo, levis, timex.  G. Cunnerson in the back with his usual, boring green shorts and white T.