Last edited by Horace (2006-06-01 06:54:08)
Wow.
I have a DB Trench from Press I bought on sale in the mid to late nineties and never wore until about a year ago. Its a great design even if the material isnt good. I spoke with Steed Appeal about Press not offering it anymore. He said they dont even know what manufacturer made it. Im going to lend it to Press to see if they can re-do the Pattern because it as well executed. They need to upgrade the shell fabric.
Great stuff, I really like the look of the single breasted, hidden button placket. Really sharp, Cary Grantesque ala Charade.
Last edited by Horace (2006-06-15 13:03:11)
Last edited by Horace (2006-06-15 13:03:56)
Horace, do you have any Gloverall ads? I think they are very Trad.
Agreed - Gloverall is very 'Trad'. Both English Traditional wear and American Traditional wear.
I personally like the non-fit of the Duffle or 'Convoy' Coat ('Monty' Coat is another old name). I think the item is WWII. Period. Others may know more.
It has a nice school-boy look over a Shetland & Cords. Relaxed, casual and youthful. It looks best on the young or the old - anybody in-between can look a little foolish sometimes.
In the same way that an old Shetland sweater looks better to me than a new Cashmere one, I think a basic Duffle always looks better than a fancy one.
They SHOULD be worn as a coat that looks 'thrown on', in my opinion. It's another one of those anti-style style things.
Miles.
I like this reversible rainjacket with tweed on one side and cotton twill on the other. Made in Ireland.
http://www.eddiejacobsltd.com/home.htm
I believe O'Connell's carries one too.
Here's the ad copy for post #5 (on the duffle coat).
How can you save $800...and your good coat besides! Being a custom tailor, I get to Europe frequently
to look for new ideas.
The first time I saw a fellow in Denmark wearking a duffle coat, I was intrigued; when I saw fellows and
girls at winter resorts like St. Moritz, Davos and other fashion spots....all wearing the duffle coat...I got
hot on the idea. So I started to make the coat in my own shop; and soon I got orders from all over the
country. It isn't an overcoat, or a topcoat, or a raincoat. but when the weather is really rough, this coat
takes the place of any of them. Our special 100% pure wool cloth is a rough-pile fabric that sneers at rain or
sleet or cold. The style of the coat is precisly like the European original down to the whittled mahogany pegs
and Dutch fishing-hemp loops. You'll want a Duffer. Well. I'll save you the $800-or-more it would cost you to go
to Europe for it. Order through Lord & Taylor in New York or send us the money and we will send you a Duffer.
Originally priced higher, it is now a rare value at $16.95 ($19.95 with collar, detatchable hood) -- a smart,
rough-weather coat.
The collar was a Balmacaan collar and offered only in the navy and camel colors. Other collors were green,
red, and grey.
Sizes:
B-Small (misses' 10-12)
X-Small (misses' 14-16 and men's 32-35)
Small (misses' 18-20' men's 36-37)
Medium (men's 38-40)
Large (men's 42-44)
X-Large (men's 45-48)
From around the First World War:
http://www.oldmagazinearticles.com/articles.php?cid=80&get=2
Gloverall duffle coats were common on campus in the mid-60's, usually in tan or navy. They were full-length, had a brushed (raised) surface, and had distinctive large horn buttons. The brand was certainly known in and of itself (like Baracuta). Paul Stuart carried them rebranded (mine from that period was charcoal gray). I recall that the most common dress coat from that period was a fly-front chesterfield, often in charcoal herringbone or navy. Never saw velvet collars. Brooks carried the camelhair polo coat, which was less common. If you look hard at Horace's 1965 J. Press ad, you'll notice the narrowness of the collars on the dress coat. which were otherwise long and full.
Regards,
Steven
Last edited by stylestudent (2007-04-17 07:59:21)
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> www.thechap.net/duffle.html
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Trevor Howard was good in 3rd Man. I've seen some of his more minor films, and I'm not as sure about those.
I wore one of my knee length Gloverall duffell coats into work last year and an elderly judicial mrashall said I was in perfect style for the UConn campus circa 1964, but I like to think I would fit in on one of the little Ivy League campuses of that era.
I bought one of the Baracuta poly/cotton trenchcoats a few years ago. It was dirt cheap. You can only really wear it in pouring rain/a howling gale etc. but, my goodness, it does the job. Better than the Paul Stuart jobbie I had. My 1967 Burberrys', though, is in a classic class of its own.