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  •  » 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

#1 2006-06-01 06:46:59

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-01 06:54:08)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2006-06-01 08:38:19

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Wow.

I have a DB Trench from Press I bought on sale in the mid to late nineties and never wore until about a year ago. Its a great design even if the material isnt good. I spoke with Steed Appeal about Press not offering it anymore. He said they dont even know what manufacturer made it. Im going to lend it to Press to see if they can re-do the Pattern because it as well executed. They need to upgrade the shell fabric.

 

#3 2006-06-01 12:43:29

Squadron A
Member
From: Manhattan
Posts: 11

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Great stuff, I really like the look of the single breasted, hidden button placket.  Really sharp, Cary Grantesque ala Charade.


Ryan B. Weddle

"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes..." - Thoreau

 

#4 2006-06-15 12:56:20

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-15 13:03:11)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#5 2006-06-15 13:00:14

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Last edited by Horace (2006-06-15 13:03:56)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2006-06-15 15:03:10

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Horace, do you have any Gloverall ads? I think they are very Trad.


Jukebox Babe

 

#7 2006-06-19 11:10:58

Miles Away
Member
From: Miles away
Posts: 1180

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Agreed - Gloverall is very 'Trad'. Both English Traditional wear and American Traditional wear.
I personally like the non-fit of the Duffle or 'Convoy' Coat ('Monty' Coat is another old name). I think the item is WWII. Period. Others may know more.
It has a nice school-boy look over a Shetland & Cords. Relaxed, casual and youthful. It looks best on the young or the old - anybody in-between can look a little foolish sometimes.
In the same way that an old Shetland sweater looks better to me than a new Cashmere one, I think a basic Duffle always looks better than a fancy one.
They SHOULD be worn as a coat that looks 'thrown on', in my opinion. It's another one of those anti-style style things.

Miles.


" ... Ubi bene, ibi patria, which being roughly translated means, 'Wherever there's a handout, that's for me, man.' "
Alistair Cooke. 1968.

 

#8 2006-06-19 14:03:45

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#9 2006-06-19 14:06:58

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#10 2006-06-25 01:45:12

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#11 2006-06-30 05:02:35

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#12 2006-07-04 13:58:53

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

I like this reversible rainjacket with tweed on one side and cotton twill on the other.  Made in Ireland.

http://www.eddiejacobsltd.com/home.htm


I believe O'Connell's carries one too.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#13 2006-07-04 16:13:06

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#14 2006-08-03 00:48:35

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Here's the ad copy for post #5 (on the duffle coat).


How can you save $800...and your good coat besides!  Being a custom tailor, I get to Europe frequently
to look for new ideas.

The first time I saw a fellow in Denmark wearking a duffle coat, I was intrigued; when I saw fellows and
girls at winter resorts like St. Moritz, Davos and other fashion spots....all wearing the duffle coat...I got
hot on the idea.  So I started to make the coat in my own shop; and soon I got orders from all over the
country.  It isn't an overcoat, or a topcoat, or a raincoat.  but when the weather is really rough, this coat
takes the place of any of them.  Our special 100% pure wool cloth is a rough-pile fabric that sneers at rain or
sleet or cold.  The style of the coat is precisly like the European original down to the whittled mahogany pegs
and Dutch fishing-hemp loops.  You'll want a Duffer.  Well. I'll save you the $800-or-more it would cost you to go
to Europe for it.  Order through Lord & Taylor in New York or send us the money and we will send you a Duffer.
Originally priced higher, it is now a rare value at $16.95 ($19.95  with collar, detatchable hood) -- a smart,
rough-weather coat.

The collar was a Balmacaan collar and offered only in the navy and camel colors.  Other collors were green,
red, and grey.

Sizes:

B-Small (misses' 10-12)
X-Small (misses' 14-16 and men's 32-35)
Small (misses' 18-20' men's 36-37)
Medium (men's 38-40)
Large (men's 42-44)
X-Large (men's 45-48)


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#15 2007-04-16 21:56:07

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

From around the First World War:

http://www.oldmagazinearticles.com/articles.php?cid=80&get=2


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#16 2007-04-17 07:57:29

stylestudent
Member
From: michigan
Posts: 205

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Gloverall duffle coats were common on campus in the mid-60's, usually in tan or navy. They were full-length, had a brushed (raised) surface, and had distinctive large horn buttons. The brand was certainly known in and of itself (like Baracuta). Paul Stuart carried them rebranded (mine from that period was charcoal gray). I recall that the most common dress coat from that period was a fly-front chesterfield, often in charcoal herringbone or navy. Never saw velvet collars. Brooks carried the camelhair polo coat, which was less common. If you look hard at Horace's  1965 J. Press ad, you'll notice the narrowness of the collars on the dress coat. which were otherwise long and full.

Regards,

Steven

Last edited by stylestudent (2007-04-17 07:59:21)

 

#17 2007-04-17 13:44:03

Howard
Member
From: Drimtaidhvrickhilliohattan
Posts: 236

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

 

#18 2007-05-01 21:01:26

Howard
Member
From: Drimtaidhvrickhilliohattan
Posts: 236

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

.
.
> www.thechap.net/duffle.html
.
.

 

#19 2007-05-01 21:55:23

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

Trevor Howard was good in 3rd Man.  I've seen some of his more minor films, and I'm not as sure about those.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#20 2007-05-01 22:00:44

Patrick Bateman
Member
Posts: 1006

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles


女性の鑑定家

 

#21 2007-05-02 20:04:46

tom222222
Member
Posts: 277

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

I wore one of my knee length Gloverall duffell coats into work last year and an elderly judicial mrashall said I was in perfect style for the UConn campus circa 1964, but I like to think I would fit in on one of the little Ivy League campuses of that era.

 

#22 2011-09-02 09:34:46

Republican Party Reptile
Member
Posts: 1696

Re: 1950s and '60s Overcoats, Raincoats, Trenchcoats, and Duffles

I bought one of the Baracuta poly/cotton trenchcoats a few years ago.  It was dirt cheap.  You can only really wear it in pouring rain/a howling gale etc. but, my goodness, it does the job.  Better than the Paul Stuart jobbie I had.  My 1967 Burberrys', though, is in a classic class of its own.

 
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