There really isn't an actual functional purpose behind the SC shoulder that makes it superior, it merely is done for esthetics, to reflect imperfection and, thus, a hand-made shoulder/garment.  I see many cheap suits with shoulders that might be interpreted as SC, but they're just shoddily-made shoulders LOL.  My Sicilian tailor, who makes a very nice SC, better than most Neapolitan tailors, made a sport coat for me with a shirt-shoulder which I like, however I prefer a clean, slightly roped shoulder as it adds a certain appearance of strength to the shoulder, especially with sloped shoulders.  I kind of think the SC shoulder is just an overrated gimmick to create a certain "mystique" behind Neapolitan clothes.  No offense intended, but you asked.

It's not that I'm not a fan of the spalla camicia. It's that I don't consider it the greatest invention since sliced bread like some seem to believe. A well-made spalla camicia is as good, as comfortable, and requires no more tailoring skill than other shoulder constructions executed properly. At the end of the day, the shoulder is just one of the many necessary attributes that separate a well-fitting jacket from the rest.

From a styling perspective, I wouldn't consider a spalla camicia for a business suit. To my eye, it looks a bit too borderline between a tailored outer garment and a shirt to produce a serious look for business. But I wouldn't hesitate specifying one for a sportcoat. Especially if the sportcoat has a bold pattern; the almost lifeless, flat-against-the-skin look of the spalla camicia balances nicely the visual impact of a fun fabric.

It also depends on figuration: I think a spalla camicia is ill-advised for a man with shoulders more sloped than the norm.

As far as I can tell from your picture above the waist, your jacket is very, very well fitted. Kudos... I don't think your jacket collar is unusually tall.... In fact, the fit of your jacket, except for the shoulder treatment, looks very similar to what my tailor has done for me.

Thanks for sharing.

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2007-06-26 15:27:16)

I am not a particular fan of the spalla camicia as it seems a rather fussy detail, and as Marc pointed out, exists almost only to showcase handwork--like those flamboyant welts some high-end Italian cordwainers are keen on making.

Hey Kevin,

Perhaps it is slightly higher than the gorge on his own jackets, but not by a ton.  I did not request anything special of this area of the jacket, and, as you know, he is not fond of going to extremes.  I would say that it is probably high-ish for him, but not like some of the extreme examples that you see from other tailors in Naples.  I imagine that the idea is that it should look good ten years from now, and not just today .

Edit:  Remember, he is 6'1" or so, I am 5'11" and you are what, 6'5"?  He is not likely to concede to going much higher with you, as it could start to look pretty wrong.  With my height, there is more leeway.

Last edited by iammatt (2007-06-28 07:49:03)

Matt,

I have seen other jackets you have previously posted. I belieive they also were from Rubinacci. All the jackets, including the SC construction from this post, fit you perfectly. Everyone has likes and dislikes regarding fit, however, the overall effect of your jackets are fantastic.

As a young man I travelled quite a bit to Rome and Milan. The tailors in both of these cities disliked the SC construction and refused to do such. My NYC tailor at that time also refused to do the SC style. Howerver, over the last 20 years I have used Nino Corvato in NYC who does his own version of the SC that is absolutely magnificant.

Matt, enjoy the latest addition to your wardrobe.