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#1 2007-11-14 07:12:10

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2007/09/lauren200709


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#2 2007-11-14 09:08:22

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Intriguing article, not least because it's written by an architectural critic.
He did make the point that Our Ralph cleans up the WASP reality, for his customers.

 

#3 2007-11-17 20:04:13

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#4 2007-11-18 00:22:24

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Would American Schemer be more appropriate?


Jukebox Babe

 

#5 2007-11-18 01:21:08

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Was he the first Trad troll?


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#6 2007-11-18 02:48:11

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#7 2007-11-18 05:11:24

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Being a troll isn't a bad thing...
It can be quite creative.

Maybe all Trad is fake by now anyway?


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#8 2007-11-18 05:19:57

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#9 2007-11-18 05:32:24

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

^ Perfect illustration.

It's Trad, Dad!


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#10 2007-11-18 09:06:45

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Flusser, if he is to be believed, has clearly stated that Our Ralphie almost single-handedly popularized the Paul Stuart Variation and became more Brooks than Brooks.

Press always seems to have been a small peripheral player.
But then "I wasn't there".

 

#11 2007-11-18 09:09:25

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

In England we liked Press because it was little know...

Nothing obvious.

Last edited by Jack_The_Lad (2007-11-18 11:10:49)


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#12 2007-11-18 14:40:36

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

What I meant about Press, despite their claim to be "first" with Ivy League clothing, was they apparently had no impact on the History Of Men's Clothing In America (if I can use such a pompous phrase), unlike Brooks and Paul Stuart (and a few others).

But as I said, I wasn't there to know firsthand.

 

#13 2007-11-18 15:10:21

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

If I recall, most of Ralph's taste was "procured" from Roland Meledandri.


Jukebox Babe

 

#14 2007-11-19 00:50:30

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#15 2007-11-19 01:56:24

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Ramble...

In the beginning were these clothes.
Just stuff.
American copies of, & imported items from, England. Or new American stuff inspired by the Old World like the BD.
Stuff you'd see in Brooks and places like that.

This stuff got popular with the college crowd.
Items were popularised as fads - The button-down collar is a gimmick isn't it?
Youthful fun which would in time give way to proper 'grown up' clothes on the whole.

World War II. ... ... ... ...

Post-War this stuff is totemic of more than it was pre-war.
Now it's 'A LOOK' & one you can keep on wearing to the grave.
It's factory made in volume and sold to death.
The advertising of this look becomes so ingrained in the American mind that it becomes some kind of touchstone/tallisman/whatever.
The fashion booms & busts, but the imagery of the marketing men lingers on...

Ralph Lauren taps into aspects of all this and makes a few bucks.
Preppy follows.
AndyTrad follows Preppy.

... ... ... ... ... ...

Things I'd like to know:

1) When was it first self-consciously called The Ivy League Look?

etc.

Ran out of time - I'll return to this.

j.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#16 2007-11-19 06:05:24

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#17 2007-11-20 02:36:31

Howard
Member
From: Drimtaidhvrickhilliohattan
Posts: 236

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

 

#18 2007-11-20 09:20:31

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Last edited by tripchauncey (2007-11-20 09:21:32)

 

#19 2007-11-20 09:45:44

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#20 2007-11-21 07:48:04

tripchauncey
Member
Posts: 568

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Ol Sports,,

When did the ivy look become "The Look"????

According to this, it was roundabout 1955 that Ivy became for Everyone!


The Look. Because the new single-breasted suits closely resemble those peddled for years to Eastern college students by Brooks Brothers, retailers refer to the new styles as the Ivy League Look. They have become such a widespread trademark that natural reaction has already set in. In Broadway's newest comedy The Grand Prize (see THEATER), a harassed Manhattanite shouts: "I'm tired of wearing Brooks Brothers suits!"

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,823778,00.html


Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving to my American friends,
Trip

 

#21 2007-11-21 09:15:58

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

A great find and wonderful social history - Thanks.

I love The Look.

j.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#22 2007-11-21 20:43:57

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Some excellent info chums.  Cheers, 'Orace.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2007-11-21 22:51:35

Gomez
Member
From: old trolls home
Posts: 500

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

Pure class:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Outdoors-Hunting-Sportsman-T-Shirt-Lg-southern-trad_W0QQitemZ8318482732QQihZ006QQcategoryZ15687QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

#24 2007-11-21 23:24:22

Eccentric Billionaire
Member
From: East Coast
Posts: 13

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

 

#25 2007-11-21 23:30:24

Eccentric Billionaire
Member
From: East Coast
Posts: 13

Re: Ralph Lauren: American Dreamer

 

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