http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2007/09/lauren200709
Intriguing article, not least because it's written by an architectural critic.
He did make the point that Our Ralph cleans up the WASP reality, for his customers.
Would American Schemer be more appropriate?
Was he the first Trad troll?
Being a troll isn't a bad thing...
It can be quite creative.
Maybe all Trad is fake by now anyway?
^ Perfect illustration.
It's Trad, Dad!
Flusser, if he is to be believed, has clearly stated that Our Ralphie almost single-handedly popularized the Paul Stuart Variation and became more Brooks than Brooks.
Press always seems to have been a small peripheral player.
But then "I wasn't there".
In England we liked Press because it was little know...
Nothing obvious.
Last edited by Jack_The_Lad (2007-11-18 11:10:49)
What I meant about Press, despite their claim to be "first" with Ivy League clothing, was they apparently had no impact on the History Of Men's Clothing In America (if I can use such a pompous phrase), unlike Brooks and Paul Stuart (and a few others).
But as I said, I wasn't there to know firsthand.
If I recall, most of Ralph's taste was "procured" from Roland Meledandri.
Ramble...
In the beginning were these clothes.
Just stuff.
American copies of, & imported items from, England. Or new American stuff inspired by the Old World like the BD.
Stuff you'd see in Brooks and places like that.
This stuff got popular with the college crowd.
Items were popularised as fads - The button-down collar is a gimmick isn't it?
Youthful fun which would in time give way to proper 'grown up' clothes on the whole.
World War II. ... ... ... ...
Post-War this stuff is totemic of more than it was pre-war.
Now it's 'A LOOK' & one you can keep on wearing to the grave.
It's factory made in volume and sold to death.
The advertising of this look becomes so ingrained in the American mind that it becomes some kind of touchstone/tallisman/whatever.
The fashion booms & busts, but the imagery of the marketing men lingers on...
Ralph Lauren taps into aspects of all this and makes a few bucks.
Preppy follows.
AndyTrad follows Preppy.
... ... ... ... ... ...
Things I'd like to know:
1) When was it first self-consciously called The Ivy League Look?
etc.
Ran out of time - I'll return to this.
j.
Last edited by tripchauncey (2007-11-20 09:21:32)
Ol Sports,,
When did the ivy look become "The Look"????
According to this, it was roundabout 1955 that Ivy became for Everyone!
The Look. Because the new single-breasted suits closely resemble those peddled for years to Eastern college students by Brooks Brothers, retailers refer to the new styles as the Ivy League Look. They have become such a widespread trademark that natural reaction has already set in. In Broadway's newest comedy The Grand Prize (see THEATER), a harassed Manhattanite shouts: "I'm tired of wearing Brooks Brothers suits!"
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,823778,00.html
Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving to my American friends,
Trip
A great find and wonderful social history - Thanks.
I love The Look.
j.
Some excellent info chums. Cheers, 'Orace.
Pure class:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Outdoors-Hunting-Sportsman-T-Shirt-Lg-southern-trad_W0QQitemZ8318482732QQihZ006QQcategoryZ15687QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem