I'm a great observer of people in a multitude of situations: whether I'm directly involved or not. Take the average funeral nowadays, the young men in their shiny suits and unshiny clown shoes, the young women in their stand-by 'little black dress', tottering on their heels.
Much as I dislike being called 'sir' (the patent insincerity generally shines through; it reminds me too much of school) I hate 'buddy', 'dude' and 'matey' a good deal more. I distrust an overtly friendly approach anyway, wanting time to make up my mind about people.
Having knocked informality, however, heaven knows I'm good at it. I've got it down to a fine art. But I do shine my shoes if attending a funeral.
(Off-topic I admit but I have not yet forgotten a friend of my younger daughter, the child of parents who believed in, hey, 'free expression', plonking her Converse on my dining table. With her feet still in them).
What bothers me, more than anything, is the lack of effort.
Yes, by all means dress for comfort. For example,I wouldn't advocate wearing a three piece suit if you're simply answering the phone.
The IT guys were early-on in dressing like kids to differentiate themselves. In truth, and I've met a load of them, they're typically socially awkward men who have rarely visited a clothes shop because they feel intimated and don't know their collar size.Sorry chaps, but you can talk until you're blue in the face about ERP, NAV and CRM but if you can't be bothered to know the difference between S, M and L please stay in your bedrooms.
Clothes are a really simple way to express your intent and can telegraph a lot about the wearer - both good and bad. First impressions do still count.
In my case it's about looking considered but not flash. A well cut jacket and decent loafers are a really simple way to elevate my office attire.
As a noted journalist once put it, 'We have exchanged the better for the worse'.
I suppose there’s an argument that ‘dressing down’ doesn’t necessarily stop you reaching the top. Steve Jobs, Mark Zuckerberg, Richard Branson. All well known, underdressed characters that some people will look to for inspiration - forgetting of course that there is/was a huge amount of hard work, long hours, failure, skill, networking and luck involved for them.
Nobody truly believes Jobs was successful because he wore New Balance trainers, but even subliminally there will be an element of ‘If it’s good enough for him it might rub off on me’. If that idea comes from somewhere near The Top, it’s not going to trickle far down the line before it degenerates to band T shirts and combat trousers.
Conversely, anyone who can stand to watch an episode of The Apprentice can see that wearing a suit and tie isn’t a passport to talent or success.
The beauty and real success of Ivy for me is that it’s not slouching in the corner hoping it doesn’t get noticed. Or barging it’s way to the front just to be seen.
Spendthrift, totally get the point about Jobs, Branson, etc And agree they were exceptional talents. I'm really focused on the general working male. I would never associate dressing well with success but I do think if you can be bothered with your appearance it can effect your state of mind. Look sharp feel sharp. The problem now is what constitutes sharp.
I genuinely think that if you don't bother with the basics you can easily forget them and not be able to pass them down. How to tie a simple four in hand, what size collar you are, simple pattern matching.
I have also noticed that men can be fairly scruffy and their partners not so when going out of an evening.
At Jeffery Garet's funeral I wore an olive needlecord Ivy suit, bought from J.Simons in 1998, with a blue oxford BB b/d, black knit tie and Alden plain caps. There was a substantial Ivy contingent there and all of our shoes were highly polished to pay tribute to one of the hippest cats ever to grace 2 Russell Street.
Modern day sartorial crime number one : the rucksack/backpack dangling over one shoulder worn over a suit. Ugly. Unbearable. Who are all these peasants?
“If I watch a news report from some war torn corner of the world I don't expect him to be wearing a suit and tie - but if he's standing outside a library on Tooting High Street he shouldn't be wearing jeans and an anorak.??
The reporter might be channeling Wolfie Smith emerging from Tooting Broadway station. ‘Power to the People!’
The Wetherspoon in Tooting Broadway is a depressing one. No decent ales and customers from the school of hard knocks. A chap sat opposite me fell asleep. The staff woke him up and told him to drink faster. I recognised the barman from one of Spoons better establishments. I enquired about Tooting and he gave a non-commital answer. We then exchanged anecdotes of the great Spoons pubs that the company had chosen to shut down.
Last edited by Kingston1an (2022-01-13 02:37:07)
Kingy - do you wear Ivy when supping in Wetherspoons?
AlveyS, as usual I'm in complete agreement. I like getting my clothes ready the evening before. When I have time to properly consider. Rather than in the 'rush and tear' of a weekday morning. It doesn't take long but makes a huge difference.
I think there's a lot of not bothering with the basics. Actally I think it's more along the lines of settlling for the basics. Not just in mens clothing (I was in a local menswear shop a few weeks ago. A fella ambled in and said he needed a shirt for a wedding. "Certainly sir. What collar size are you?". "I dunno. Medium?") It's everywhere. I was driving through another town early this morning. It's not a great place, charity, chicken and Lettings shops mainly. But every shop signage was cheap, flat plastic at best. Most often banners half hanging off the wall above the window. No idea of the basic shop owner's concept that you have to present yourself well and tempt people in. Contrast that with JS. In keeping signage and decor. Well considered. Just glancing at it gives you a good idea of what they're offering to who. Even their daily Facebook post is most often very clearly well thought out. Given your job you might disagree? I have to hold my hand up and admit I've never been to Chiltern St.
TRS, Modern day sartorial crime number two : The young estate agent. Shiniest suit of the bluest blue you ever did see. Brown pointy shoes that will be replaced from Matalan when they need a polish. Because he is not aware that shoe polish is 'a thing'.
Kingston1an, Wetherspoons. I'm as guilty as the next man when it comes to enjoying a £2 pint. But like McD's and Burger King, I do feel dirty when I come out. Best one I had was when I asked what ales they do, "We have Magners, Coors and a guest ale. But I don't know what it is".... Looks at me as if to say, make your mind up mate. I haven't got all day.
Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-01-13 03:39:41)
Kingy - do you wear Ivy when supping in Wetherspoons
Yes. A lot of the time. They don’t have a dress code.
I often go in the three Spoons in the Southend area to meet up with cousins who like cheap beer and I can confirm there is no dress code haha. I wear Ivy lite and my cousins are pretty smart dressers as well. I wouldn't recommend wearing a suit and knitted tie in such establishments.My regular pub in Leigh the 'Broadway' (Carlton) models itself on Spoons with cheap beer but no food. Some of the clientele maybe down on their luck but they all have a story to tell.
Sartorial Crime no 3: buying a suit by YSL, Hugo Boss etc then leaving the makers tag on the cuff when you wear it so that others can see what a classy suit you’ve got. Also leaving the basting stitches in on the vents and in the hip pockets. It must be very annoying not to be able to use the pockets. I guess they see it as part and parcel of owning a designer suit … some little tailoring detail perhaps?
Funny thing. When my dad took me to buy my first suit when I left school, he told me to never break the stitches on the pockets. Apparently it would stop me stuffing sandwiches, calculators. Whatever a sixteen year old carries in there and ruining the line of the suit.
I don’t know if he was basing that on anything, and it’s a conversation we only had the once.
I very rarely wear a suit, weddings, funerals, but I always smile when I go to put something in the hip pocket and find it’s still stitched up.
Kingstonian , Robbie - perhaps you should frequent watering holes that are more in keeping with the clothes you're wearing... just saying.....
Stax, I always feel at home and comfortable what ever the pub and it's environment . l do go into other pubs and pay double or treble the Spoon prices (4x the price in Finnish pubs). Living/working mostly abroad it is the English pub I miss most. Any English pub but I'm not sure I would want to walk into a pub with everyone dressed up in Ivy gear!
What gets me is when men spend money on clothes and then get it wrong. The pointy shoes unpolished, the ill-fitting suit etc. I didn't realise that there are men out there who don't know their neck size in shirts. I have noticed in recent years that some shirts come in S M L XL.
Robbie, point take, but if everyone was dressed in Ivy you’d think you’d gone back to Boston, Mass circ. 1959, probably Ivy heaven for many, haha,
Don’t get me started on the bright blue suit, tan pointy shoe mob and BBC reporters dressed like slobs,
When you’re in Essex are you far from Jaywick Sands ? I bet you have to select your boozer carefully there !
Jaywick sands may well be a no go area for me! I'll have to try it. However, I've been in a rough pub in North Wales where everyone was speaking Welsh when I walked in and another pub in Galway where Gaelic was being spoken. No problem for me and I felt comfortable enough after I got my order in. As you know Stax I used to drink in the Blind Beggar. I just made sure I didn't spill anyone's drink or stare at anyone!
Working Men's clubs I have a big problem with. I went to West Ham working Man's club before a game and even though I was a local I felt very uncomfortable. Don't like the club atmosphere. You even have to be careful where you sit.
I fly quite often and I remember when people used to dress up for a flight. Today everyone dresses like slobs. Rich Russians in particular seem to have a problem with clothing in a public environment.
.
Of course the best Spoons is the one located conveniently between Brooks and J.Press: cheap beer, two for one curry night, half-price on crisps, framed photograph of Nigel Farage above the bar, his arm around an Essex skinhead.
There was a great Spoons in Enniskillen. As far West in these isles as you could go and still get decent real ale. Guinness was not the only drink in town. Plus all the usual Spoons features. Then Spoons closed all their pubs West of the river Bann.
There is a magnificent Spoons in Tunbridge Wells - an old opera house. They still have a performance once a year apparently. Ales not so good in that one though.
Tim Martin has similar views to Mr. Farage. Though Nigel could turn up in Spoons suited and booted, or even wearing his yellow corduroys and nobody would criticise him.
I do have a copy of the book of Spoons carpets. Tunbridge Wells, Wimbledon, Holborn and Ealing feature among others.
Spoons carpets? I haven't paid much attention to carpets but I remember my family telling me that one night in the Elms, Leigh on sea the elderly members of the group were ushered out the door by nephews who recognised it was 'all going to kick off'. Sure enough it did and the carpet received some claret and I'm not talking wine.
I was in the same pub with two Finnish brother on laws who were assumed to be Polish workers taking local builders jobs. I was watched closely when I went to the bar and they relaxed when they heard my accent. I still like the pub enough to go there.
https://www.wetherspoonscarpets.co.uk/
Temple Bar was a pleasure when I first went there in 1995. A slightly - no, very - shabby boozer with the wallpaper hanging off in strips, a sticky carpet and a jazz policy. I'd been up to my ears for years in Joyce, O'Casey, Beckett, Frank O'Connor, Wilde and the rest. I loved Dublin. Went back less than ten years later. Oh dear. Bewley's gone (I'd enjoyed white pudding in there), Temple Bar tarted up, an arm and a leg for tea and a blueberry muffin at Trinity. An Irishwoman confided in me that only English oddballs like myself had any interest in Irish culture; her own children certainly didn't. Poor Yeats. 'Great hatred, little room'?
This thread wandered, as they have a tendency to do, from the point, but I was reminded of it (slightly) when watching the Japanese chappie on YouTube discussing the style/look of Bill Evans and describing it (I'm pretty sure) as 'monochrome'. Unfortunately, we're used to seeing studies of Evans, Scott, Gomez and others in B/W, so can't really note subtle colour differentiations, let alone judge fabrics etc. All I know is, in the 'Waltz For Debby' clip, the trio is looking good: restrained: far removed from the likes of Dexter Gordon or Wardell Gray.
Did Evans wear the JFM-style 'workhorse' jacket offstage, too?
The Japanese choices/offerings/opinions could be subject to bebate.